i read somewhere and was also told a z24 like mine could get into mid to high 14's with all the bolt-ons. (header, exhaust, intake & motor mounts)
i have so far motor mounts, intake/high flow muffler and stiff suspension.
im wondering if a DCsport header and a 2.5 inch catback would get me into high 14's? or do i need to also do the short shifter? im just so mad that im still running high 15's!
im not crazy about doing any pulleys, but i do want to do a clutch, a stage2 spec. how much will that really help out in the 1/4 mile?
i definately want to do header and full exhaust next, but will that shave a second off my current time? thanks for the input!
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car tuning site)
I'm pretty sure there's a few people on the .org that can answer this question better than me, but here's my take on it.
stick with a 2.25" exhaust, especially N/A. I think you should be good with the DCSport header, which, IIRC is a 4-2-1 header.
short shifter, tranny mounts, and the pulleys will definitely help, stage 2 clutch will too.
check the weight on those rims that you have on your car. they might be a bit heavy, and a lighter weight rim will definitely help you out.
Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
those rims are pretty close to the stock weight of the z24 rims. i was going to go 2.5 inch exhaust because i plan on a turbo in the future, and im trying to do upgrades that are a little simpler....i know i could hit 14's with a clutch and cams, but im not crazy about having my car down for a few days while those things are done.
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car tuning site)
sorry to double post, but:
is a 4-2-1 header like the DCsport header bad for what im using it for? im intrested in that header because it replaces the cat and its a direct bolt on.
or do i want a 4-1? there cant be THAT big of a diffrence......
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car tuning site)
with a 4-2-1, you'll see a little bit of gain mid-range, where a 4-1, you'll see more top end gain.
personally, if I was POSITIVE I was going turbo in the future, I would be looking at price. you're not going to be able to use it once you go turbo. if the DC Sport is cheaper than going with the Pacesetter with a Magnaflow cat, then by all means, go that route.
the 2.5 is going to hurt you a bit, because it's just too big for an N/A 2.4. there's J's here on the .org that are running 8 psi on a 2.25 exhaust and doing just fine.
Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
I might have given you some misinformation... here:
Quote:
4-1 header gives you a high end gain.
4-2-1 is more to gain more low end tq.
In my opinion.. a 4-1 is better for the J's since the engines already produce enough low end tq.
this is from the Performance F.A.Q. up above.
Desert Tuners

“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
i have the 4-2-1 DCSport, mainly due to the fact that the Pacesetter's quality isnt up to snuff (heard issues about the ceramic coating coming off, fit etc)
for one thing, dont get a header if you want a turbo. no sense in spending money on something you will take off your car soon anyway.
there is a guy on here that ran a 15.2 with only an intake and engine mounts on his 2.4

Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
CaliforniaCavalier wrote:those rims are pretty close to the stock weight of the z24 rims.
More plays into it than weight.
For example...
If both of us have identical cars, run identical times stock, and you put on 18" 15lb rims and I put on 15" 15lb rims, I will run faster than I did stock, and you will run slower.
It takes a lot more torque to turn something the farther the weight is out from the center.
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Quote:
i have the 4-2-1 DCSport, mainly due to the fact that the Pacesetter's quality isnt up to snuff (heard issues about the ceramic coating coming off, fit etc)
There havent been any issues with the ceramic coating comming off of the pacesetter(its done by Jet Hot), there is however a problem with the paint comming off of the black painted headers. The paint is purely there to prevent rusting when it is on the shelf, you actually have to strip it and replace it with high temp paint. ive got the Pacesetter ceramic header and love it to death.
Ill make a sig someday
Quote:
the 2.5 is going to hurt you a bit, because it's just too big for an N/A 2.4. there's J's here on the .org that are running 8 psi on a 2.25 exhaust and doing just fine.
2.5 is not going to hurt him if he has other good mods. If it hurts the 2.4 so much you need to come talk with my car, because it has ran a 14.83 all motor, and on the street runs with low 14's second cars (but that is another story). Also ask a current org member who has a 13.9 GM charged car how much trouble my car gave him from a roll.
Truly pre 2000 2.4's have a hard time getting into the 14's all motor. I know someone will say something about this, but look on the org tell me how many 2.4's period are in the 14's, and how many are pre2000???? I have owned a 97 z24, I also have a 96 Z24 as well my 20001. The gearing in the getrag is better.
I would say you need a 57 mm TB, underdrive pulley, 4-1 header full exhaust. Also 14's steelies with sticky tires. Then lots of practice. Driving will be the MAIN key into getting your car in the 14's. You are not going to get in the 14's on 17's or 18's with street tires. You need to get out of the hole hard for a good 60ft, and to do that would need to launch anywhere from 3000-4000RPM's. With that said the isuzu tranny is not going to like that.
FU Tuning
CaliforniaCavalier wrote:sorry to double post, but:
is a 4-2-1 header like the DCsport header bad for what im using it for? im intrested in that header because it replaces the cat and its a direct bolt on.
or do i want a 4-1? there cant be THAT big of a diffrence......
Uhmmm... Couple of things here... a 4-2-1 does not replace your catalytic converter... I'm not sure where you got that info from... and if it did (or you decided not to have one anymore) you would need an O2 simulator to prevent your car from giving an error code. Next if you, as your name implies, live in California you will still need a cat to my knowledge otherwise you will never pass emissions testing... but again Just my $0.02...

Knowledge about everything and yet an expert of nothing!!
Jack of all trades.
I have a spec list close to what you are proposing and i hope to be in the low 15's or the high 14's this year. The track just opened here but i haven't had the time to go to the track yet. My spec sheet in my profile is up to date if your interested. BTW the SPEC stage 2 clutch with the aluminum flywheel is amazing. That alone dropped a few tenths off. I can send you my numbers from my first track night, in two weeks, if you want. Also i have the Pacesetter 4-1 ceramic header and i love it. Good luck
Shawn M.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Silver_00ZED24 wrote:CaliforniaCavalier wrote:sorry to double post, but:
is a 4-2-1 header like the DCsport header bad for what im using it for? im intrested in that header because it replaces the cat and its a direct bolt on.
or do i want a 4-1? there cant be THAT big of a diffrence......
Uhmmm... Couple of things here... a 4-2-1 does not replace your catalytic converter... I'm not sure where you got that info from... and if it did (or you decided not to have one anymore) you would need an O2 simulator to prevent your car from giving an error code. Next if you, as your name implies, live in California you will still need a cat to my knowledge otherwise you will never pass emissions testing... but again Just my $0.02...
the DC sport header does replace the cat, not all 4-2-1, just the DCsport does.. and yes i will need an O2 simulator if i get this header.
also i plan on eventually getting the magnaflow high flow cat welded in, but for now i need a header that is a direct bolt on, and the dcsport header was 1 of the only ones i could find. i want to bolt the header up, and sometime in the next year before i get it smogged ill be doing the cat with the rest of my exhaust.
i dont think the armor coated pacsetter header is a direct bolt on right? it has to be welded in? can someone verify this?
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car tuning site)
Yes you will have to cut your pipe in front of the converter and weld on the Pacesetter downpipe.
Wayne
its totally possible

1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
definately possible...i was gonna try to get there before turbo but i threw a rod bearing so im starting my build. I ran a 15.3 @ 88 with a cone filter on the stock s-tube, solid mounts, magnaflow high flow cat, and removed the basic interior pieces. Never got to run with the HO mani and 59mm tb but o well. All that was in an auto.....
Good luck!
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^^ Sweet, so there's hope for autos yet. I have just about the same setup but I am running the HO mani with 56mm tb and other mods on my auto. I haven't been to the track yet but I'm hoping to get into the low 15's/high 14's and now I know it can be done!!

"Kneel before ZOD!!!"
D-LuxZ24 wrote:^^ Sweet, so there's hope for autos yet. I have just about the same setup but I am running the HO mani with 56mm tb and other mods on my auto. I haven't been to the track yet but I'm hoping to get into the low 15's/high 14's and now I know it can be done!!
Still waiting to see the first Auto in the 14's N/A.
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:D-LuxZ24 wrote:^^ Sweet, so there's hope for autos yet. I have just about the same setup but I am running the HO mani with 56mm tb and other mods on my auto. I haven't been to the track yet but I'm hoping to get into the low 15's/high 14's and now I know it can be done!!
Still waiting to see the first Auto in the 14's N/A.
an auto in high 14's would be impressive, but i doubt his will yet. i thought the same thing about my old auto lux, and i had stiff suspension, intake, exhaust and motor mounts and only ran mid 15's. also had the b&m shift kit which did help, but still no where near 14's.
but good luck!
also: does anyone know where i can get an o2 sensor and how much they run?
im probably going to get the dcsport header, bolt it right in, then use an o2 sensor for a few months while i save $$ to get the rest of the cat and exahust. then use15 inch steelies at the track and see what i run
- Cameron (CaliforniaCavalier)
-
www.csc-motorsports.com (my new NOR-CAL car tuning site)
How much would a full P&P job and cams help? Because I plan on going this route next.

"Kneel before ZOD!!!"
i am hoping to have most of my n/a mods done come early summer on my auto, and i will be taking it to the track, so i'll let you guys know what the best i run. i think it is totally possible, even on an auto, so i guess we'll have to see if i'm right.