Excluding Force Induction and Nitrous Oxide, what one modification would you say helped you in the 1/8 or 1/4 mile the most?
I can't really answer because I've never run the car before it became like it is now.
3.8L S/c engine swap ( work in progrees )
Other then that, i dont know.
for a stock car, probably smaller front tires on lighter wheels... increases the effective final drive and makes for quicker acceleration... obviously a track only mod, but it works, and works well. Other than that, do motor mounts count as one mod?
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Scarab, What size tires would you suggest to use for the track?
I guess motor mounts would count as one mod. Do they make that much of a differrence, I have the lower mountand I didn't really feel a difference. Of course, that's the butt dyno, not a chassis dyno.
i have 15 inch drag radials myself. some have 14 inch
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
Strip the interior. Anything you can do to lighten the car is gonna make everything else work better. Generally speaking.
my best mod---actual mod---that I did to help my track time had to be my header/high flow cat upgrade. I had a cat back the first few times I ran, but after the header, I ran faster.
I say light 14's woth drag radials
Where would you buy 14 inch wheels for drag use? Salvage Yard?
Admiral Jedi wrote:Where would you buy 14 inch wheels for drag use? Salvage Yard?
of course
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
Earl , AKA: Eddie wrote:Strip the interior. Anything you can do to lighten the car is gonna make everything else work better. Generally speaking.
I also put my buddy behind the wheel. He's as good a driver as I am, if not better, and weighs about a buck twenty less than I do.
lol, when you cant lighten the car any farther, lighten the driver? if thats true then i gotta put my big ass on a diet which would be alot cheaper then doing it to my car lol
Best "Entry level mod" has got to be intake/FULL exhaust (header, cat, etc)
other than that i would avoid running with anything larger than a 16" rim (wouldnt even reccomend running that) get some 14" rims off of an old corsica or something (plenty in the boneyards) and put a decent set of tires on it...
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** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
Manitoba Motorsports wrote:Best "Entry level mod" has got to be intake/FULL exhaust
Done.
I was just looking for some ideas to toss around. I'm leaning more towards forced induction though.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, June 20, 2006 11:09 PM
Darren Reynolds wrote:lol, when you cant lighten the car any farther, lighten the driver? if thats true then i gotta put my big ass on a diet which would be alot cheaper then doing it to my car lol
No joke. It's said that every 100 pounds is worth about a 1/10 second. Not much when you think about it, but its a quantifiable loss when you're losing weight everywhere you can. Just think, if you remove 500 pounds of dead weight between the car and your beer belly, that's a 1/2 second you've potentially shaved off your time. I'm sure someone will argue this but if NHRA competitors that race for a living believe in it, who am I to argue?
always the first mod....adjust the loose nut behind the wheel
but seriously, of all the cars I have modded, for any automatic car, a well picked torq converter. otherwise, I have always been happy with a well picked cam. and I am not talking the biggest one with the 9,800-10,000rpm powerband, but one that is well suited to my current state of mods and can accomidate future mods.
think opening you r exaust made you faster, imajine what the difference would be if the morot already had a nice cam in it(and yes I have seen people change the cam before the exaust, not normally done but point still stands)
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when you beat someone in a civic people wine and make excuses
when you beat someone in a cavalier they pull over and check under thier hoods
NUTCASE wrote:I have always been happy with a well picked cam.
Is there a set of cams that could be used to gain N/A performance and still benefit Forced Induction?
Admiral Jedi wrote:NUTCASE wrote:I have always been happy with a well picked cam.
Is there a set of cams that could be used to gain N/A performance and still benefit Forced Induction?
all depends on the cam itself but I can tell you this much
n/a cam + boost= better than boost with stock cam
boost cam + n/a= usually a tuning nighmare. never seen it work out to well myself
and befor somebody asks
nitrous cam + n/a= questionable gains but a BADASS exaust sound(no2 cams usually have lots of exaust duration)
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when you beat someone in a civic people wine and make excuses
when you beat someone in a cavalier they pull over and check under thier hoods
I thought about this post today and came to the conclusion that buying a cam for a N/A engine with plans of boosing doesn't really make sense. Thanks though for the reply.
Also, after thinking about this post. I've realized I have 14" wheels. I feel somewhat dumb. So 14" tires, intake, full exhaust, mounts, what else would you guys suggest? Straight to forced induction...?
I would say do the cam, then boost, then when you get up the cash swich to a boost cam and sell the n/a cam to reclaim some of the cash. like I said, na cam+boost is better than boost with stock cam.
just my input
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when you beat someone in a civic people wine and make excuses
when you beat someone in a cavalier they pull over and check under thier hoods
