OK well I pciked up a Universal FPR on ebay for my turbo Setup, With a Simple Vacume Barb connection, and a Barrbed Fuel In and Fuel Out line,
Now We all know theres no way to connect a Univeral FPR to the 2200 rail because it have this cheap Oring fitting that bolts onto the rail for the stock FPR.
SO, From what I understand theres not an Aftermarket Rail available, and theres also No adapters.
So, Im on a quest to either
A) Make a reliable adapter
OR
B) Make a fuel Rail to interface with the regulator, INjectors and an Aftermarket FMU
PICS of others solutions would be GREAT!
-Chazz
gut the stock fpr, run the fuel out on the universal one, to the feul in on the stock fpr,.....problem solved
buy a accel adjustable fpr , you use the 1 for the LT1 motor
and ditch the el-cheapo ebay crap
Cheap? yea, It works 100%, so I have no problems with using it.
Not to mention it matches the rest of the engine bay!
I think im going to try and make a fitting to adapt the rain input to a regular NPT pipe type connection.
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM&00s/c sedans™)]buy a accel adjustable fpr , you use the 1 for the LT1 motor
and ditch the el-cheapo ebay crap
The accell is more cheap than the one he has. For boost cars I would not use the Accell one. I had one on the Reaper the diaphram busted and fuel started pooring out the vacuum port. I would think you could make a fitting to attach tot he fuel rail (where the stock FPR attaches) and fun that line to the new FPR. I have not looked at a 2200 fuel rail in some time, but have a couple lying around.
FU Tuning
im using the accel on my s/c'd cav havent had 1 problem
and its a direct bolt in no mods required
only reason the accel would be cheaper is the mods required to make that bulky thing work
fit over modifactions is better , but if you want looks and a hack job getting it to work go for it
[quote=97cavie24ls(JDM&00s/c sedans™)]im using the accel on my s/c'd cav havent had 1 problem
and its a direct bolt in no mods required
only reason the accel would be cheaper is the mods required to make that bulky thing work
fit over modifactions is better , but if you want looks and a hack job getting it to work go for it
The reason I said that is it has been posted before others having the same issue as I had with turbo set up and the Accell FPR. I agree a bolt on one woudl be the best, but if Accell is the only option then I would not go that route. Not sure a Casper one will fit or not.
you might want to check out this post :
FPR picture on a 2200
He has a similar one on his car he might be able to give you more info on how to do it.
FU Tuning
just remove the stock fpr and jbweld a fitting into the rail. here's a pic of mine. i got the idea from VTloki's topfeed conversion
alias1429 (now with boost) wrote:just remove the stock fpr and jbweld a fitting into the rail. here's a pic of mine. i got the idea from VTloki's topfeed conversion
to start, i will admit I SUCK AT JB WELD for the most part, and 50-60psi on that stuff kinda freaks me out. another option would be to simply have a barb fitting tigged into place
either way prob the most efficient idea. JB or reg welding.
john what kinda problem have people been having with the accel ??
only thing i can see if trying to go over or under the recomended pressure ratings
caspers and aero motive both sell 1's that will fit as a bolt in , caspers specificly says the 2.2 2200 , and aeromotive is like the accel , you use a LT1 fpr
1 motor uses the vette , and the other uses the camaro 1 , only difference is the side the mounting tab is on
personally , my car and my life are worth more than rigging up a fuel line with JBweld , a radiator ill do with JB weld , never a fuel line , welding it would be best in that case
also the more odd ball connections you have the more chance for fuel leaks , and ive seen cars burn to the ground because of a small fuel leak , there was a guy here in phx that bought a low mile LT1 f-body with a supercharger , for pennies compaired to what it was worth , got it running , messed up a .25 cent o-ring , and watched his car burn down infront of his ins agents office , because that o-ring leaked
Quote:
john what kinda problem have people been having with the accel ??
The diaphram breaking (like mine did) and fuel coming out of the vacuum port. I got my Accell FPR from Jake he hada issue with it breaking as well and got it replaced, then I got it from him. There was a post at one time (inside of another post about FPR's) were 3-4 people had issue's with the Accell one on turbo cars. I think for a N/A car it is great.
Question how much boost are you pushing?
FU Tuning
that happeds with the stock fpr as well , and should happen with just about any fpr on the market
i had to replace the fpr on my friends g/fs 98 ga/gt 3.1 for that problem
and my 97's stock fpr leaked from the case some where
i think it is more of the additives in the gas slowly eating at the rubber in the diaphram , or a weak spot from the mold for the diaphram
I'm using a stock 2.2 / 2200 regulator with an adjustable "hat". It's sold by TPIs and maybe a couple of others. No problems yet.
To convert that OE regulator to a fuel line, you could do what I did and cut off the inlet (it's marked "fuel out" in the picture) where it Tee's into the body of the regulator, then cut off the "nut" from a GF481 GM fuel filter, and weld the two together. I think I used a nut and bolt through the center of the two fittings to align them while welding. Then you can use regular GM fuel line to connect to your rail and new regulator.
But I definitely agree about losing a car over something stupid like a homemade fitting. I subjected mine to 150 psi air pressure and submerged it in soapy water to check for leaks before using it.
HTH
-->Slow
Not quite a home made fitting lmao, Me and Clint will be making it, He makes cutoms hoses and fittings, clyinders and FUEL LINES for a LIVING. Im pretty shure he knows what he is doing.
The Problem with using the stock connectors off the stock FPR is the center hole will bottleneck flow if I ever use that much fuel, Im planing to match the Lines and FPR.
The fitting I will make will not be 2 stock picies welded togeteher which still has a chance to fracture or leak, Ill be making it of Billet steel or Aluminum,(using the lathe)ill be Cuttng the outside O-Ring grove to make it sit in th fuel rail just like oem and then the other end will have a Female 3/8" pipe connection.
I wouldn't worry so much about a bottle neck after the fuel rail, so long as the fuel is sufficiently supplied at the injectors, whatever else happens afterwords is just dumped fuel. not as important has having a big enough supply line.
edit:
if you notice my conversion, it has a -10AN inlet, and a -6AN outlet, which is more then sufficient.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:27 PM
if your milling a adaptor that will be alot better
there are alot of cars out there making alot more power than youll be making and using the stock , or stock replacement parts like the accel or caspers stuff
just a thought
Im not planing to go fast, just keep up
Yeah, there's LT1 engines on the stock regulator making over 500 horses. If you get to that point, you should be answering more questions than you're asking.
-->Slow
