i just installed a autometer air/fuel ratio gauge in my car, is it spossed to be all over the place when my car is idleing? it says in the instructions it should go to rich when i'm hitting the gas hard, which it does, but when my car is idleing it jumps all over, just want to make sure it's working or if i did something wrong
mine never was all over the place it either stayed mostly lean and then under throttle would jump to pig rich. its prolly bc i spliced it the lazy way bc i didnt have a soder gun or heat shrink. if i feel like going into school tomorrow prolly will do it the right way this time.
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i used a butt connecter and dual wall heat shrink, it seals the end with glue. will soldering make it work better, cause thats just as easy, i would have done that if i knew.
Shifted, by all means correct me if I'm wrong, but it shouldn't jump all over the place unless it's a narrow band should it? I've always thought narrow band sensors only jump around like that because they only read accurately at stoich, where wide band sensors will provide a more stable, accurate reading. I could be way off but even at idle the a/f ratio shouldn't fluctuate that much I wouldn't think.
The Autometer one just taps into the car's narrowband, so it's working fine, mine does the same thing. (Also an Autometer)
It also will cut to absolute lean when I'm coasting down in gear (manual), it's supposed to do that also, it's the Deceleration Fuel Cut. It should start flipping back and forth at a lower rpm, around 12-1500 or so when coasting, which should be Deceleration Enleanment.
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ln2johnny wrote:Shifted, by all means correct me if I'm wrong, but it shouldn't jump all over the place unless it's a narrow band should it? I've always thought narrow band sensors only jump around like that because they only read accurately at stoich, where wide band sensors will provide a more stable, accurate reading. I could be way off but even at idle the a/f ratio shouldn't fluctuate that much I wouldn't think.
Even widebands jump around a bit, except it gives you a number of where you are at. But you are right about narrowbands. The a/f ratio does bounce around a bit during cruise, even on a wideband.
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My Autometer C/F air/fuel ratio gauge moves alot too, no biggie.
Which is more accurate, a wideband (Costly), or the type that taps into a narrowband? Guess what im asking is, is the narrowband reader's worth it, as they can only read so much?
Ender_Wiggin wrote:Which is more accurate, a wideband (Costly), or the type that taps into a narrowband? Guess what im asking is, is the narrowband reader's worth it, as they can only read so much?
narrowband guages are garbage. there really only good for looks. the guage reads stoich lean rich. thats good for about nothing more than a blinking light. to be honest though you really dont need a WB unless your boosting your motor. and recalibrating your AF. there are people around here who are boosted and useing an narrowband. personally I think thats the dumbest @!#$ thing you could do. you spend how much on your boost device, and you have no idea if your motor is about to explode.
there is an expception however. dyno tuning is pretty much the only way you can safely get away with out a WB, but either way I still wouldnt trust it. all it takes is one slip up and wam....piston, meet hood
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To my knowledge the only time narrow band are accurate is when your at WOT when the car goes into open loop. If it goes into lean when your at WOT then you have some problems. Its another good safty measure when your spraying nitrous to keep an eye on what your car is doing at WOT.
well it is narrow band, and i'm not boosted it's basicly to fill an empty gauge pod space on my piller pod, so who cares since it's spossed to do what its doing, i'm good
Jcavi wrote:Ender_Wiggin wrote:Which is more accurate, a wideband (Costly), or the type that taps into a narrowband? Guess what im asking is, is the narrowband reader's worth it, as they can only read so much?
narrowband guages are garbage. there really only good for looks. the guage reads stoich lean rich. thats good for about nothing more than a blinking light. to be honest though you really dont need a WB unless your boosting your motor. and recalibrating your AF. there are people around here who are boosted and useing an narrowband. personally I think thats the dumbest @!#$ thing you could do. you spend how much on your boost device, and you have no idea if your motor is about to explode.
there is an expception however. dyno tuning is pretty much the only way you can safely get away with out a WB, but either way I still wouldnt trust it. all it takes is one slip up and wam....piston, meet hood
So if i got HPTuners, and tried to tune with a wideband with bolt ons (plan on GM S/C later), would it be worth the money now or later?
im not sure what your asking? there is a ton of power to be gaind by using hpt. you dont really need a wideband since you wont be seeing boost and the ecu can control the afr's no prblem.
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wouldnt having a wideband allow better tuning (be it extreme or not) or no?
