I am not sure what forum this should go in, but this one has much more traffic so...here we go. Timing chain on one of my 2.4's jumped, motor quit. Instead of screwing around with it, because I HATE working in tiny places, such of those where the timing chain is, I pulled the motor. I am not even sure what the piston to valve clearance is like on a 99 2.4, so, do you guys think it bent any valves??? This will save me from popping the head off if it isnt bad. I may pop the head off since it is out anyway and put in a new head gasket, I have an extra one laying around. I am not worried if they bent, I have an extra set of valves from a 96, and also, I am not worried about nicks in the pistons, they will be alright, prolly buff them down so they cant create a hot spot. (Also, gm techs, b4 flaming me for pulling the motor, another reason why I just pulled the motor is because the tranny needs a rebuild also, so I pulled them both out so I can do the tranny rebuild and see what the f*%& is up with my motor at the same time. Damn 2.4's, I'm starting to like the ECO more everyday, MUCH better oiling (no more f'in spun bearings), more stable top end. My next cav might have to be a yellow ls eco, ALL stock, cept keep a little suprise under the hood, of course turbo.

Not sure why you complain about the LD9 in such a manner, maybe its the way it was taken care of? I would realign the chain back up and see if it runs fine, it could be off timing so badly that it cant run (be it computer or mechanical). As for spun bearing, almost 92k miles, and im far from easy on the car (up in RPM's often), and no issues. Changed the Timing Chain about a week and a half ago with no issues, really isnt that hard to get into personally, no different than any other FWD car with its motor mounted as such. Again, all IMO. As for damage, its possible i believe, ive been told our motors are interference, then been told they arent, so im not 100% sure.

Im not complaining, I love the 2.4, its just the designing that went into it is far from perfect. Dont even talk to me like it is perfect, there have been thousands of people with spun rod bearings, bad water pumps, dumb sh*t like that, I have owned 4 cars and have 1 spare 2.4 around here with more 2.4 parts than i know what to do with, so dont try to tell me the 2.4 motor is perfect. I bought the car with the timing chain jumped. 99, 80,000 miles, perfect body, had some interior issues, fixed it, looks brand new, 150 bucks. Motor jumped time,3rd gear clutch is bad.

The LD9 is a non-interference engine. Also you should replace the cam seals, which is considered the valve cover gaskets. You have to take off the timing chain to do it so you minus well.

Chris Pasco wrote:The LD9 is a non-interference engine. Also you should replace the cam seals, which is considered the valve cover gaskets. You have to take off the timing chain to do it so you minus well.

WRONG! the tc 2.4's are INTERFERENCE engines!

imo you got the engine out, really its only 20min more to rip the head off, i say just for the sake of knowing for sure to rip it off and check it... you really wanna go through all that work to put it back in and having it no run/run like @!#$...


_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**

My crank came out of a 2.4 that had the crank gear come apart (stock grand am, 60k miles)...... 4 valves where imbeded in the pistons....... hardly a 'non-interference engine'........ lol

idk how many people I have heard of getting the timing wrong, and bending a valve trying to start it......




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

How do you know it's an interference engine?

What's IMO? How long did it take you to change the timing chain? What was the most difficult aspect about it? What what shortcuts do you know of, if any?

cronos wrote:What's IMO? How long did it take you to change the timing chain? What was the most difficult aspect about it? What what shortcuts do you know of, if any?

IMO = In My Opinion

it takes me about 4hrs in car but then again i've done them numerous times. most difficult thing is just getting everything lined up again, just make sure you roll the engine over by hand, its an interference engine so double check the timing marks, when rolling it over by hand if it comes to a dead stop then you know somethings wrong.

while your in there do the timing chain guides, tensioner, and chain... best advice is to just take your time!


_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**

What special tools do I need? Do I need an engine support tool and can I just support it from underneath?

cronos wrote:What special tools do I need? Do I need an engine support tool and can I just support it from underneath?

jack the car up, put it on jack stands, take the right front tire off, i find it easier to pop the coolent tank out of there and get that out of the way so drain some coolant out, from there put a jack under the oil pan to support the engine, turn the engine over by hand (use a socket and wrachet on the crank bolt and turn it over till its at TDC) then remove the upper engine mount, once thats out of the way, remove the bracket thats bolted to the engine, from there take the side cover off, and from there on its straight forward, if you dont have a book PM me or email me at Justin_inc@twistedmotorsports.net and i'll email you the instructions with pictures from my manual. If you have any trouble dont be afraid to ask.

while your in there do the water pump!


_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**