i searched and found nothing ... maybe i didn't search hard enough for which i am sorry. But im going to be picking up a stock engine and i want to know if it will even be worth me saving the block or not. soemthing happened and the guy said there were some nasty scratches in the walls and i was wondering if it would be salvageable by getting ti bored out .02 and getting those pistons for it. let me know please! i would like to know before saterday morning but if not ill get it any ways.

What size motor do you have?

If you need to bore it .020 just to get it smooth again then there might be some cause for concern.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

its a 2.2 ... and hypsy ... what do you mean? should i just scrap the engine then? idk what it looks like as of right now. i will be picking it up on saterday , so i can find out how bad it will be. i would love to be able to build it up for boost with out replacing the sleeves. if i have to replace the sleeves im trashing it. its free any ways.

hes saying to bore it over and if its still scared after that you still have a problem.

but if your building it up for boost, go bigger then .020


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

were can i get pistons made for larger? how much larger?

also does any one know what the bore is on a 2.3 ? would i be abel to bore the ecotec block out to the same bore as the 2.3? would i be able to get any gains on going that large?

rawkfist wrote:were can i get pistons made for larger? how much larger?

also does any one know what the bore is on a 2.3 ? would i be abel to bore the ecotec block out to the same bore as the 2.3? would i be able to get any gains on going that large?

Very little difference will be made in boring out the cylinders(in terms of total displacement).

I think the stock ecotec is a 86mm bore. So boring it out .020 = .50mm (I think)
So total bore would increase to 86.5mm

If .020" cleans the cylinders you are fine. Karo at carcustoms.net probably has a set of 20 over pistons.

Stock bore is 3.386 bore or 86mm bore. Going .020 overbore will be .50mm for a total of 86.50mm bore or 3.406 depending on how you want to look at it.

If you sleeve your block, you can go alot bigger. I have seen as big as a 3.700 bore before for NA applications. For high boost application, I would not risk anything over a 3.500 bore...

im kind of just seeing what could be the possiblitlies right now so sorry if im asking alot of questions.

How bad will the damages be if i go over 3.500 bore?

Will i see any gains if i bore it out to 3.500?

Will i need to sleeve my block to get it to 3.500?

the darton sleves will allow for bore up to 87mm not sure what that is inches they are an 800 dollar part but make you bulletproof



1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85

The Darton sleeves are AMAZING. Got to see a set first hand 2 days ago and fell in love.

The way I was taught....anything up to .020 to make the walls clean is OK. .030 or more to get CIRCULARITY AND STRAIGHTNESS and you should pass on the motor or redo the sleeves.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

yea darton has a big bore kit on ebay right now for just under 700 and allows to be bored out to 90 mm from stock 86 mm which would bring you upto 2.4L



The one, the only, ME.

if i get those new sleeves and bore it out to 90 mm .. would i have to worry about anything going wrong? i plan on getting the hahn stage two kit, and if there was away it would help me ... i would be all for it.

also how would i order pistons? will the 2.4 fordged pistons fit on a fordged ecotec rod? or do i have to get them made special?

Honestly...if you have to ask about complications and what sleeving would do for the motor....it's above your head. Sorry.

Just build a nice, solid bottom end and rock the HRC kit



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

just trying to learn but i guess i forget where i am when i ask these questions.

Like I said I'm not trying to be rude man. If you honestly don't know what sleeves are, are going to let you do, or what they are going to change on the motor your going to need to do some more research before you try anything like swapping them. It's a lot of work to get the old ones out and the new ones in right.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

im not going to try to b eather ... but dude im freaken 17 ... im not planning on redoing the sleeves until i atleast have the forged internals. which is like # 7 on my lest of things to buy. This is why im asking now. so when i do get into it all i will know. My dad is a mechanic he knows how to do this ... and if for some reason he doesn't he knows other people who do. If we have to go to the other people ... its going to cost money, THIS IS WHY PEOPLE ASK!!! i want to know more about the ecotec engine. i dont want to be like others out there how will dump a grand or more into installing any part they get. i want to be able to say i did this i did that ... not this company did this this company did that. im sorry if im not like every one else out there who is A or B, A = they know how to do it or B = pay some one else to do it. Im more like a C which would be want to learn to be like A people.

also its a spare engine ... ITS FREE!!! i still have my other ecotec still running strong in my 2002 LS Sport. So if something goes wrong with the re sleeving its my f* up and my car will still run the next morning!

but i guess almost half or more people on this site have to be dicks and say the timpical ... not worth it, its to hard for you to do etc bull crap. I want to know how to. i dont give a rats jack about if its to hard for me. and you have no clue whats to hard for me to do. i dont eather ... which is why you take a chance ... put things on the line on a stock engine.

but i guess if no one wants to help me ok with the questions i have left then just lock this thread. and thnk you very much for all of those who answered the questions i asked

and sorry hypsy ... you just got dropped a notch in my book... i thought you were ebtter then this.

Drop a notch? AHAHAHHA. If I get dropped a notch for warning you then so be it. No big loss for me.

I'm sorry you can't accept someones opinion when they actually have experience with these parts. Oh well. Everyone thinks they can do everything or that they know someone who can. Not always the case. Either way...have fun with your car and I hope you don't destroy anything. I'll be the first one to post when you do.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

Rawkfist Start reading and learnig Sleeving and other infoThis should help to Hypsy i can see why you act that way but don't diss the kid for trying. You know alot probley a hole crap load more than me but this a place for people to learn if you can't type fast enough to explain things their is probley a website somewhere you could use for the info. Now you help more people byleading them to water than going to get it for them.

I never dissed the kid. I made a 100% honest statement.
And I quote..."If you honestly don't know what sleeves are, are going to let you do, or what they are going to change on the motor your going to need to do some more research before you try anything like swapping them. It's a lot of work to get the old ones out and the new ones in right."

Now where is there an insult in that? Unless your super sensitive and take advice and statements as insults there isn't one. People need to learn to deal with things better. Not every statement is meant as an insult...you'd know if I meant it that way. Trust me.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

I apolgive hypsy i read it wrong. Sleeving a block is nothing a novice car mechanic should even think about doing. The website site i have posted explains that. This is a thing that should be left in the expert hands of a repituble engine building shop/ engine machine shop. And max for the Darto sleeves on turbo tech racing is 86 mm they come 80mm. I know my info is lacking some but i belive between hypsy and my post rawkfist will have the info he was looking for.
To get the old ones out their is alot ofmachining required to get the old ones out. "ecotec is a sleeved block from the factory." Then you must have each cylinder preped to receive the sleeves. They have to be place in perfectly the first time so they don't move up and down or twist. Gm has a specail head gasket set just for aftermarket sleeved ecotecs. The darton sleeves are made to with stand high pressures and increased rpms of the over 550hp crowd. Even gm has problems sleeveing motors some of the oignal ecotecs had problems with the factory sleeves floating.
With those power levels you are not driving an every day cavy any more Your driving an off Drag car. Alot of legal stuff that was on your car would have to be replaced or taken out completely makeing it not a street legal vehicle.
Hypsy's build and hahn race crafts have all been to keep the street legal essentails and neither required sleeves. look at the times they put down. At this point in your life a your level just build the bottum end of the eco and gte the HRC turbo kit or Gm s/c kit and see how it handles. rember great power in a fwd vehicle is very hard to control it takes practice and pateince to slowly build your skill and up the power.
Rawkfist just have fun and don't kill yourself.
Hp is how fast your gunna hit that wall tq is how hard your gunna hit..

sorry for sounding like a dick but i was just asking a question. i didn't know how hard it was/ is for which im sorry for snapping. But im so sick of people just saying its to hard to do. So does that mean to any one who wants to learn how to fiberglass cant read up on it and see if its something they want to get into or not. ya i know i should just build the bottom end up but if this block im getting for free needs new sleeve (even if there just stock) i will have it a possiblility. its free... if its to bad w/e ill ditch the block and try to find another one.

sorry to even post... and thanks for the info any one gave me.

04eco (theN/Aautoone) wrote:yea darton has a big bore kit on ebay right now for just under 700 and allows to be bored out to 90 mm from stock 86 mm which would bring you upto 2.4L

where do you get 90mm pistons for the eco?



|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|

Acer wrote:

04eco (theN/Aautoone) wrote:yea darton has a big bore kit on ebay right now for just under 700 and allows to be bored out to 90 mm from stock 86 mm which would bring you upto 2.4L

where do you get 90mm pistons for the eco?

You have them custom made.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

Ross, Venolia...etc make custom pistons just to name a couple. Sleeving blocks is not something to take lightly, especially factory sleeved blocks. If you can bore it .020 or something like that to get the cyl walls
straight & true then do that. Unless you are making a RACE car, don't worry about the trick all-out sleeving and stuff like that. If your going boosted, look for pistons with a reasonable compression ratio 'cause you'll cram the air down it with the boost. Start with something like 8.5->1 and then you can boost it > 5psi and not get into detonation, detonation will ruin a lot of hardware. Quickly.
Don