I had a link for a place that had them but have since forgotten it
I've heard that the 2200s are fairly cheap and I would like to get a hold of one that I can bolt on things to and drop into my 2001 Sunfire SE when my current high milage 2200 craps out
Plus I want to familiarize myself with engines and I figure this would be a fairly cheap way to cut my teeth.
Chris
i dont know what you mean when you say "crate" engine. as in brand new from the factory idk about them but you might try going to a junkyard, 2200's litter them like none other. and you could prolly pick one up for 200-300 bucks.
Yeah as in brand new motor
But WOW! That's damn cheap! I look into a few local yards then I guess
Chris
if you wanted to go junkyard motor( and i know you said brand new but just incase you change your mind) go to www.car-part.com and you can do a search in junkyards in your area w/prices and all.
and if you were willing to spend all that money on a crate motor, why dont you just get the 2200 out of a junkyard and then rebuild it, that way during the rebuild you can do what you want to it. ie. cams, pistons, rods, do a p&p and get your valvetrain done (if power is what you want out of the engine)
For the price that you would pay on the crate motor, you can get the rebuild started w/ some decent performance parts (and that way you get some internal experience as well

)
01ohv wrote:if you wanted to go junkyard motor( and i know you said brand new but just incase you change your mind) go to www.car-part.com and you can do a search in junkyards in your area w/prices and all.
and if you were willing to spend all that money on a crate motor, why dont you just get the 2200 out of a junkyard and then rebuild it, that way during the rebuild you can do what you want to it. ie. cams, pistons, rods, do a p&p and get your valvetrain done (if power is what you want out of the engine)
Your 100% right because I would be scrapping the majority of stuff in the new one anyway in favor of new pistons, a cam, rods, and a port and polish job -- if I could pull a used engine for relatively cheap I could just put all the money I saved into rebuilding the engine with stronger parts
Although I'm somewhat new to this as I indicated and don't exactly know what to look for in a used engine
Any tips?
Chris
You want one where the block is sound. Preferably get one that has some sort of warranty attached.
If you find one in your area that is decently priced, ask the following questions, aside from year/make/model
1) When was the car entered into inventory
2) What is the odometer reading at the time it was entered into inventory
3) What, if any, is the condition of the front end (ie massive damage vs. minor)
If the car was entered recently, you will have to physically check to see if the head is still there. No head = possible bad things internally.
High miles may mean abuse or generally not worth it (over 150k)
Massive front end damage may indicate irreparable damage to the engine.
If all 3 check out, find out if there's a warranty
Kardain wrote:You want one where the block is sound. Preferably get one that has some sort of warranty attached.
If you find one in your area that is decently priced, ask the following questions, aside from year/make/model
1) When was the car entered into inventory
2) What is the odometer reading at the time it was entered into inventory
3) What, if any, is the condition of the front end (ie massive damage vs. minor)
If the car was entered recently, you will have to physically check to see if the head is still there. No head = possible bad things internally.
High miles may mean abuse or generally not worth it (over 150k)
Massive front end damage may indicate irreparable damage to the engine.
If all 3 check out, find out if there's a warranty
Awesome -- thanks for the tips!
Chris
if you are seriously looking at buying a crate motor, i may be selling mine soon.
its not a stock crate motor though...
heres a bit on the block
Quick Specs on the block:
-Standard 2200 (2.2 OHV) block
-Overbored Cylinders .030
-Crower Rods rated for 500 HP (yea i'll get to that point in about NEVARRRRRR!)
-Arias Custom made pistons 9.5:1 CR (fly cut for the valves)
-Total Seal Piston Rings
-Swaintech Coating on the piston heads and skirts
-Crank knife edged and slightly lightened and balanced
-Clevite 77 Bearings throughout
-Crane Cams Howell Automotive Cam for 2200 (prototype)
-Melling Oil Pump and Timing Gears/Chain
-GM Lifters
-Cometic MLS headgasket
well heres the entire page on what got done.
http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/PROject2200.html
outside of the rocker arms which have been sold, everything else is still there.... never been run, still at the machine shop. the engine , block and head, is fully machined and built.
Hey Event, how much are you looking for? Would you be willing to part it out at all?

fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
not sure, most of it is already assembled, just in two halves really. head and block. just guaging intrest levels and see if anyone could use a built engine.
i figure taking 4-500$ off the total build price is a decent deal which would set it at a hair under 2k.... or if someone has similar offers...
Funky Bottoms (Event) wrote:if you are seriously looking at buying a crate motor, i may be selling mine soon.
its not a stock crate motor though...
heres a bit on the block
Quick Specs on the block:
-Standard 2200 (2.2 OHV) block
-Overbored Cylinders .030
-Crower Rods rated for 500 HP (yea i'll get to that point in about NEVARRRRRR!)
-Arias Custom made pistons 9.5:1 CR (fly cut for the valves)
-Total Seal Piston Rings
-Swaintech Coating on the piston heads and skirts
-Crank knife edged and slightly lightened and balanced
-Clevite 77 Bearings throughout
-Crane Cams Howell Automotive Cam for 2200 (prototype)
-Melling Oil Pump and Timing Gears/Chain
-GM Lifters
-Cometic MLS headgasket
well heres the entire page on what got done.
http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/PROject2200.html
outside of the rocker arms which have been sold, everything else is still there.... never been run, still at the machine shop. the engine , block and head, is fully machined and built.
Sweet -- your page is actually where I got the idea! Let me think about it...in the meantime shott me an e-mail to firebird1999us@yahoo.com about pricing, shipping, methods of paymen, etc...
Chris
If you want, i've got a mostly complete core I got out of a 1996 GMC Sonoma that I'm kinda tooling around with. The reason I say mostly is because I sold some parts to a local mechanic, and the head was cracked. But the block is savable, and the crank magged ok. The reason I say that is it threw the #4 rod. It hit the block, but never wrecked it. I'll let what I've got go cheap. Email me at mythod@hotmail.com and you can come up with your own combo. I'll even give you some of my ideas for it. Like trying to stroke the crank and grinding the rods to 040 under. Smaller journal allows quicker oil flow between the bearing and journal. Get back to me inf you're interested.
Project Resurrection is in full swing!
Quote:
High miles may mean abuse or generally not worth it (over 150k)
Many engines have over 100k miles. That's usually first trade in. I tend to look at a high mileage engine as one that's built "right" from the factory. After all, it's lasted this long...
-->Slow
if you sent an email to me, please send it again because i've had problems with a guy from ebay.
Project Resurrection is in full swing!
a 2200 should be about 300 bucks I would say. I just picked up an ecotec motor with 3200km on it for 500 and the wreckers gave me a 1 year warrenty but that will all go out the window when I tare it down and replace it all. I say find a 2200 at a wreckers with low milage and build it up right. Saves you money in the long run.
Project Yellow Blur Is Under Way ! ! ! ! !
Junkyard around here charges $188 for an entire motor with all accessories
On a side note, my motor finally went in to the machine shop...shooting for late January break-in

fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.