So Most of you in the boost fourms have seen my engine bay:
Altenator wasent re-installed yet)
Well as You can see I took out the "expantion or Overflow" tank.
I bypassed the upper rad hose(small one) around to the steel pipe inlet on the top(see pic) Then I just blocked off the line that goes to the main rad line.
Well at first things seem fine, but I noticed now while idling the fire SLOWLY starts to overheat (takes 20-30 mins)
I dont know if I MUST have the tank or what but i read around prior and saw where several people with space requirements took theres out.
So now, Is there a different way I need to by pass it? SI there an alternative alum tank I can get with the right requirements?
thanks!
ummmm
thats normal
atleast for me it is....mine takes less time and i still have that tank
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
when i say overheat i mean overheat, its gotten up to 240 and still climbing.
does the fan kick on at all?
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
yup the fan kicks on right on scedual 195* i belive?
Start looking for vacuum leaks and check the thermostat and water pump. There's a good possibility teh coolant isn't circulating and those three reasons are quite likely. And with it getting to 240 and higher, you might be in need for a new head gasket, and maybe a new, or at least repaired, head.
Wow lol you must not have seen my other thrreatds
I just sinished FIXING my head and replacing my head gasket It had BETTER not be a blown head gasket It cost me aver 300 to fix it last time(broken sparkplug.
Theres no oil/water mix and its not smoking or spitting water so its nOT a blown head gasket.
and I CANT put the tank back in do not have the space!
wow retarded spelling repeat:
Wow lol you must not have seen my other threads
I just Finished FIXING my head and replacing my head gasket so It had BETTER not be a blown head gasket. It cost me over 300 to fix it last time(broken sparkplug).
Theres no oil/water mix and its not smoking or spitting water so its nOT a blown head gasket.
and I CANT put the tank back in do not have the space!
You're right, I didn't read your other threads, just this one, which I read in its entirety. Sorry for trying to help.
you need to get the tank back in there... Your main problem is that you more than likely have an air pocket and it is unable to burp itself..... I did not see why you removed it, nor did I try looking for it.... From the Pics I cant tell why.....
Please elaborate more here.....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
The valves from my air are mounted in the OEM location, I just realised you cant see from that angle(sorry).
I only know of two people that have moved that tank in a 3rd gen... fetter - and me.
Fetter had to put his stock tank back in, he was having problems with the location he put the tank in.
I have not had a single problem.
You do realize that the cap on the tank is made to open at 15 psi and bleed out any coolant... as well as the only way to properly burp the engine is through the overflow tank.
You need SOME form of a tank. I don't know of a single person who has run without one... period.
Good luck - maybe you should consider fabbing one up that will fit in the near stock location? Sounds like your only option.
I bet that engine has air pockets galore in it and it can't burp them out!
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
I'm no expert in this department, but putting your head gasket in upside down will cause this to happen too, does your car have heat, if it doesn't have heat your gasket may be in upside down. Just a suggestion.
Car produces heat... heat is carried away by coolant... coolant expands with heat... now it has nowhere to expand....
You're gonna blow something up running it without a tank.... have fun
Go to the junkyard and get a smaller tank.
Lenko that was cold you supposed to be my buddy! lol
So How about this, I hook up the stock tank, fill it, run the car, allow it to "burp" itself, then remove it, and "loop" the line again from the rad to the steel pipe.
Then take the line from the main rad line and run it to a valve with a 15PSI release so it can bleed off excess flud.
I had a tank(one of those ebay oil catch cans but it dosent hold pressure at all.
SpyderWizard wrote:Lenko that was cold you supposed to be my buddy! lol
So How about this, I hook up the stock tank, fill it, run the car, allow it to "burp" itself, then remove it, and "loop" the line again from the rad to the steel pipe.
Then take the line from the main rad line and run it to a valve with a 15PSI release so it can bleed off excess flud.
I had a tank(one of those ebay oil catch cans but it dosent hold pressure at all.
Not gonna work.... Once you open up the system again, you get air back in... Do the smart thing, move the valves and put your tank back in.....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
you could get a custom radiator, or find one from another car that fit and has a cap actually on the radiator. Then an Overflow tank wouldnt be necessary. Maybe, I dont know, just a suggestion.
I just know that we dont have a radiator cap on the radiator itself it is on the overflow tank, thus your problem, no overflow tank, no pressure cap. No pressure cap, the cooling system doesnt function properly, thus over heating.
Moral of the story: Get a radiator that has a cap, on the radiator, and problem solved.
chm YOUR A GENIUS!
lol I dotn know why I didnt think of that in the first place!
We have what a 15lbscap OEM?
Now My only other problem is I have an AUTO so Ill need to find one with abbuilt in tranny cooler Or a seperate tranny cooler.
mov your valves man...put one on each strut tower or mount them differntly but your making it alot harder on yourself by not moving them..and honesly..on a boosted engine..why skimp on cooling..phil
SpyderWizard wrote:Lenko that was cold you supposed to be my buddy! lol
So How about this, I hook up the stock tank, fill it, run the car, allow it to "burp" itself, then remove it, and "loop" the line again from the rad to the steel pipe.
Then take the line from the main rad line and run it to a valve with a 15PSI release so it can bleed off excess flud.
I had a tank(one of those ebay oil catch cans but it dosent hold pressure at all.
I meant it more like... welcome to my world.... breaking stuff...
Do what CHM suggested... lots of other GM cars have rads with the cap on the rad instead of the tank. Then mount a small overflow tank somewhere else... I know the Buick Park Ave I pulled the engine from had that kind of setup... but that's probably too wide to fit the J-car...
Maybe a Grand Am?
Im not moving the valves, END OF STORY
Im looking at getting an aluminum "Race" Radiator like what summit carries then switch over to an indipendent transmission cooler. Ill have a rad and tran cooler. Then If I need to Ill Seal Up that ebay "oil catch tank" and use it as a resivior.
another $200+ i need to spend to drive my finished engine
talk to a welding shop and hav them fab you one out of alum, just keep in mind it has to be at the same height as the stock on was
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
JCWhitney also sells a universal overflow tank I dont know the deminsions but it would be cheaper than a radiator. Might want to look into it.
Edit: Heres a link with the deminsions:
Overflow tank It does say that it isnt for pressurized systems though
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, November 26, 2006 7:04 PM
