ok so i currently have a 96 cavy 2.2 with a 5 speed in storage for the winter......now is the time to start thinking about what i want to do for next year. my current mod list is as follows

-intake
-header, high flow cat, full cat back
-p&p head and intake
-milled .022
-b&m short throw

i think that is about all that is on my list of performance mods, i am trying to stay away from boost just b/c of the $$ and i would like to stay n/a. i am not sure what to do next. some freinds and i had a dyno day a couple of months ago and i pulled 119 whp and 128 torque and my a/f's stayed at about 14 all the way across.

so what should i do next?, i am open to all and any ideas

thanks


R.I.P. Micheal Geyman 2006

Nitrous or a Cam for big numbers.

You could finish off the bolt ons with motor & tranny mounts. Crank and alt pulley. The 1.6 ratio rockers are supposed to be nice aswell.

i have thought about doing the rockers...........i did not know that they made pulleys for the 2.2.hmm do you have a link or know where i could find them?? also what kind of cam do you think would be good? should i just go with a re-grind of some sort, or is there already an aftermarket cam that has a good duration/lift??


thanks


R.I.P. Micheal Geyman 2006

You'd have a better running engine by milling the block, rather than the head.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

Definitely go for the rockers. Gotta love that OHV 2.2...too bad mines wearing to oblivion.


--------------------------------------------------
'96 Cavalier Good ol' Pushrod 2.2
-24X,000 miles on factory build
-Some oil loss between changes, me thinks it be rings.

OHV notec wrote:You'd have a better running engine by milling the block, rather than the head.

why exactly is that???

it would seem that it really wouldn't make a difference where the milling took place, either way you go the compression is increased and i don't see any down falls to milling the head,and the only reason i did it that way(not that i would have done it any differently) is b/c the head gasket was leaking so while i had the head off i had the work done to it.

and i am still waiting for ideas to help me build more performance.......like i asked before, do they make a pulley kit for the 2.2, and is there a performance cam out there??

thanks


R.I.P. Micheal Geyman 2006

and know i thought of a reason that it would make a difference.....the size of the chamber on the head huh???


R.I.P. Micheal Geyman 2006

2Blue Cavy wrote:and know i thought of a reason that it would make a difference.....the size of the chamber on the head huh???

Not quite. The shape of the chamber would have a little effect (it 'flattens' out as the head is milled on pre-98 motors), but the biggest benefit to milling the block is that the quench distance is decreased, promoting more flash, less detonation, and a better burn. Stock quench is something outrageous like .080" (.055 gasket, .025 piston below deck), about double what it should be for efficiency.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

Those are some decent numbers. I'm excited to get my stuff all put back together.

hhhmmmmmm....thats good to know, i am also thinking of buying a spare motor so i think i will definitly go that route if i do. also if i do more work would it make more sense to just buy an engine kit for a certain compression ratio or should i try and peice it together? my goal here is to have a reliable summer-daily driver n/a with roughly 170ish whp........is this feesable(sp) with the 2.2 do you think??

the lemur wrote:Those are some decent numbers. I'm excited to get my stuff all put back together.

thanks...all of the people at the dyno were pretty impressed too considering what it is




R.I.P. Micheal Geyman 2006

rk sport makes the underdrive pulley for our car and also summit racing just started carrying a different one automotive speacilties or something. I love my 97 OHV im planning on j body performance cam, pushrods, and lifters in the spring they say its add 15 whp!!!

I am posting this as a question to learn I have a 96 LN2 with an automatic and have found on sites and been told by dealerships that the LN2 comes stock with 120 hp and about 140 TQ. I also know that most engines that come off the line do not have the exact numbers that is said on paper so I udnerstand that my Sunfire does not have 120 hp. My question is that with machining the head p&p ing it along with the bolt ons how come it seems that the car doesn't have more power? The only reason I could think of was that the downpipe is still stock. Again I am curious by simply trying to learn but the work that 2 Blu has done sounds good and is similar to what I plan to do to my engine.

Tripp Walther wrote:I am posting this as a question to learn I have a 96 LN2 with an automatic and have found on sites and been told by dealerships that the LN2 comes stock with 120 hp and about 140 TQ. I also know that most engines that come off the line do not have the exact numbers that is said on paper so I understand that my Sunfire does not have 120 hp. My question is that with machining the head p&p ing it along with the bolt ons how come it seems that the car doesn't have more power? The only reason I could think of was that the downpipe is still stock. Again I am curious by simply trying to learn but the work that 2 Blu has done sounds good and is similar to what I plan to do to my engine.

The factory 120hp rating is measured at the flywheel. When you measure the power on a dynometer, it is measured at the wheels. There is roughly a 15-20% loss in power between the flywheel and tires, depending on the transmission, so when he has 120whp (whp=wheel horsepower), that means he recovered enough power to make up for what is lost in the drivetrain. Typically, the OHV will dyno just under 100whp in stock form.

As far as pulleys, I have the RKSport (old version), Mantapart (same thing, but with alternator pulleys as well), and maybe a CavConn kit laying around somewhere. If you are looking for all-out power (without power-adders), pulleys can help, but you won't gain much from then so they're really not worth it if you're planning boost or juice don the road.

Since you were asking about compression ratios, and engine builds, we should mention that the aftermarket rods made by Eagle (all that are commercially availible) are longer than stock, and will raise your compression ratio by themselves. Since they are longer, milling your block may actually bring the piston dome too close to the block (leave ~.040" clearance for safety) and lead the some major damage (measure fourty times, purchase once). Also, any severe milling to the head or block should be followed with custom-length pushrods, minor milling can be suited with adjustable rockers.
For rockers, search for MadJack's rocker thread.
For everything else you could want to know, look up the 1.7:1 rocker thread, the 2200 power record thread, the valve ratio thread, the camshaft thread, or a myriad of others that got way off-topic



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

thanks for all of the good info, and yeah if i buy a set of higher compression parts you better believe that i will not be milling the block...................and i do plan on running w/o any "power adders" such as boost or nos, i def want to keep it n/a......................i was searching and i found a company called import performance that sells a kit for like 890 plus like 170 for a cam or something like that, is that a good price and or is this a good company to do business with?


thanks again


R.I.P. Micheal Geyman 2006

A couple people have used that site for their rebuilds. keep in mind that you still need rods. you could ask nitrous nate how he liked the kit.

The only other cheap mod that you can do, is get a TB off of a 2.3L engine, so that way you will get a 56mm instead of a 52mm. It might bring it up to 122hp and 130lb-ft. Definatly have fun, you can do alot to those engines. It jus takes time

dan

ok i think i am set on the n/a build through import performance.................my only question though is do you think if i get the 10.5-1 compression kit that i would have to shim the head or get a new one or do you think that th .022" milled will be ok???

thanks





R.I.P. Micheal Geyman 2006