ok, i called my local auto parts store and tried seeing if they could get the HO 2.3 cams, they said they had 2 available options for 90-92 2.3 cams, either a VIN D or a VIN A.
which one (if either) is the HO?
also, much to my surprise they finally got the lifters available... still pretty expensive at $16 each, but hell thats much better than the only option that used to be out there, which was going through GM...and a set of lifters like these were going for $600!!!!
also, much to my amazment, it didnt matter...VIN A or D... nor exhaust nor intake, all 4 cams were under $90 each, so thats cheaper than the $120 i paid for my brand new 90-94 LO exhuast cam 4 years ago. so our parts are going down finally, which is awesome.
also, do you guys think an AUTO 98 z24 can handle the extreme numbers the W41 cam's put out? if not stock, would getting a yank 3000 stall convertor do the trick to get the car to run correctly? (and by correctly, i mean by NOT stalling)
ok. i would rather just start off with a brand new set of cams. ive had bad luck with 2 95 intake cams ive bought out of junk yards, so i dont want to go that route. the first cam i got wouldnt spin in the housing, we tried it in a different housing.. still didnt spin, so we came up with the conclusion is was bent. the 2nd cam i bought-we measured the lobes and they all werent the same...some even came up lower than the stock ld9 cam, so the wear was pretty bad on it. having different numbers on a cam is bad for a motor, that means every valve opens differently-more or less than the others.
ive looked, car-part.com acctually has 2 W41 cams. cheap to! im not thinking i want to go that high with an auto tho.
so again, i ask... whats the right numbers/codes for the HO 2.3 cams so i can purchase them brand new.
thanks.
You do realize the INTAKE cam is going to have to be for a '95 so it has the powersteering drive don't you?
The only place I could find a Brand New one was from gmpartsdirect and it was in the $220 range.
And BTW... the sticky at the top of the page has all the info in the very first post.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
Do you want to rev 7500rpm with your auto? I don't think so. Also, Karo had weird number from W41 cams. Alot of torque but no hp. Stick with Ho's first then build the engine then you may think about it. The stock oil pump will not handle 7500rpm.
He can convert to the old style pump if he want to use the Ho cam. The biggest part is the cam sensor
Gilles
2.3 Ho
A would be the answer your looking for. If your going the HO cam route, your going to need the 35mm lifters, not the 33mm LD9 lifters. Your also going to need to have your cam towers bored out to fit the new lifters, and clear the cams. Dont worry, I think the 35mm lifters are only $8 each, instead of the $16 33mm lifters.
www.miller-performance.com would be your best bet for getting the intake cam modified, along with the cam housings. Click on the "Contact" link and ask about having it done.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
z yaaaa wrote:ok. i would rather just start off with a brand new set of cams. ive had bad luck with 2 95 intake cams ive bought out of junk yards, so i dont want to go that route. the first cam i got wouldnt spin in the housing, we tried it in a different housing.. still didnt spin, so we came up with the conclusion is was bent. the 2nd cam i bought-we measured the lobes and they all werent the same...some even came up lower than the stock ld9 cam, so the wear was pretty bad on it. having different numbers on a cam is bad for a motor, that means every valve opens differently-more or less than the others.
ive looked, car-part.com acctually has 2 W41 cams. cheap to! im not thinking i want to go that high with an auto tho.
so again, i ask... whats the right numbers/codes for the HO 2.3 cams so i can purchase them brand new.
thanks.
just an offer...they are sitting around...think the motor had like 80-90k
2007 GM Tuner Bash...HELL YEA
PA,MD,NJ,DE,NY and all states north caravan
ive contacted miller-performance and they said they will not do the cam machineing anymore he said he feels as if he loses money doing it cuz the amount of work involved, unless he changed his mind this month
I had not heard this, but then again I havnt asked Todd about it in awhile.
I'm sure a machine shop could handle it, just bring in both cams and tell them to make the HO one look like the 2.4 one
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
john317(AKA Gary the Old guy) wrote:You do realize the INTAKE cam is going to have to be for a '95 so it has the powersteering drive don't you?
yes, JOHN... of course i do, i have installed 2 of them before. im not an idiot. and before u ask, yes i do realize im going to need to modify the high output intake cam, although im pry going with these guys. they live fairly close to me, which is amazing. cuz we live in IOWA. lol
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=372981&t=372981
i already have a set of cam towers from a high output engine, and the 35mm lifters..they are used tho, i will be using brand new with a brand new set of cams.
DAAAMMMMMN brian, where the F did you find the 35's for $8 each?!!?!?
also, YES, i realize im going to need the high output springs, they are $60 from GM brand new. i already have karo's SS valves, and basically after all that all i need is a good set of valve guides.
beretta guy- i was merely speculating about the W41's, i really just wanted a straight answer if they would run without stalling the auto. and why cant i rev my auto to 7500?? not being a dick, i would actually like to know, cuz ive never heard that you cant.
i wont put these cams on a stock engine, the engine is going to have .020 over forged pistons/new rings, eagle rods, a brand new crank/bearings and arp main and rod bolts and head studs. and a 2.3 oil pump swap using the miller-performance oil pan.
so, i do know what im doing here, i just need to find a new set of HO cams... so vin A?
z yaaaa wrote:
beretta guy- i was merely speculating about the W41's, i really just wanted a straight answer if they would run without stalling the auto. and why cant i rev my auto to 7500?? not being a dick, i would actually like to know, cuz ive never heard that you cant.
From what I can remember, GM rates the 4t40E to 6800 rpm's, but they also rated it's power and torque somewhere around 200hp / 205 ft/lbs...and people on these boards have crushed those numbers on the stock trans. I think Jeremy is spinning 7000 rpm's in his boosted auto. I personally don't see what Gilles is talking about...maybe windage in the transfer case?
z yaaaa wrote:so, i do know what im doing here, i just need to find a new set of HO cams... so vin A?
Yes. Vin A is HO (I think W41 as well). Vin D is LO.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
The stock 2.4 oil pump starts to bleed off pressure as the RPMs climb......... basicly due to the design of the stock pump and pickup (balance shafts), the pump ends up spinning faster then oil can be drawn up threw the pickup. The 2.3 uses a larger pump and drive gear, and the pickup is alot more efficiant.
I dont have the drive gear ratio for the two pumps, although I could get off my butt and count the teeth on the parts in the garage to figure it out. I know the 2.3 pump is closer to a 1:1 ratio, where the 2.4 is probably about a 3 or 4:1 ratio.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
doesnt the 2.3 pump have it setup as gear to gear, and the 2.4 uses a chain.
so basically... to get the crank side of it done, dont u have to have the 2.4 chain gear pressed off, then get a 2.3 gear pressed on?
yeah thats exactly what you do.
and then either buy the miller performance oil pan, or have somebody make the damn thing exactly the same.
and then go to gm and buy all the nessesary parts (ie oil pump etc)
now... what oil passage needs to be plugged? or does it? this is the part im confused on.
Brad, I just sent you the pics of the install. Those should answer all of your questions. If you read the NY-Jbody write up, they drill the oil passage a little different (which is the way I did it).
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
awesome man, those pics are really cool... one thing i dont understand tho...
after he cut the corner off the side of the block on the inside, he then drilled a hole into the hole passage... ok.. the one at the angle i do believe, but then he just put a pipe plug in it, whats the purpose of doing the drilling if all ur gonna do is plug it?
z yaaaa wrote:awesome man, those pics are really cool... one thing i dont understand tho...
after he cut the corner off the side of the block on the inside, he then drilled a hole into the hole passage... ok.. the one at the angle i do believe, but then he just put a pipe plug in it, whats the purpose of doing the drilling if all ur gonna do is plug it?
I think he plugged just the end of the hole, not interfering with the path created by drilling down.
That's why I didn't bother with it and just drilled directly to the oil passage from the plane that the pump sits on and sleeved that hole. The biggest thing to worry about when doing it this way, is you need to progressively increase drill bit sizes to prevent the bit from "walking" when you break out of the casting and back into the oil passage.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
