You mean tri-flow? Lots of people are including PJ who ran a 14.0 N/A with them.
Built, bottled, ready for 11s. 14.446@93.74mph, 1.848 60' N/A.
I've seen a few dyno sheets with Tri-Flow cams... fantastic results. Power from the low end to the top end... finally a cam profile that doesn't sacrifice one for the other.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
yea tri flows are pretty sweet cams
I never really got to use them on the stock head since i'm stupid...
but they're awesome when used in tandem with a high flow exhaust and a ported head
here's an explanation I found about tri flow:
Quote:
Tri-Flow explanation:
The most common problems encountered when performance cams are installed are the loss of bottom end torque, poor idle and computer problems.
This phenomenon has been more and more prevalent with high-revving, multi-valve engines. When two valves open at the same time, there is twice as much room for the air to move through. Picture a vacuum hose that has a diameter of say 1". It could quite easily suck up marbles or small rocks. If that same vacuum was hooked up to a vacuum hose of say 5" diameters, what could it pick up? Maybe a feather, but the marbles and small rocks are totally out of the question. An engine works the same way!
When an engine is optimized for HIGH-RPM power, the LOW-RPM power will unfortunately have to be sacrificed…or will it?
What if someone could make a performance camshaft that could make better power at HIGH-RPM with a minimum low - rpm torque loss, without the use of a variable lift cam system?
Colt Cams has managed to do just this for virtually ANY multi-valve engine. By staggering the opening times of the two intake lobes, we have created a swirl in the system. The principle behind this design is to open the intake valves progressively. By opening one valve first allows the fuel to travel across the chamber at a greater velocity due to the smaller ventury action, it then helps pull in the second charge at a faster rate. This gives the equivalent to the secondaries opening up in the carburetor. In turn, with the larger cam, the engine has better vacuum at idle since there is less overlap, throttle response is greatly increased, and turbos’ have noticed less lag and faster spool up time
Geoff’s theories on the "Tri-flow" have been proven time and time again, on many different engines. The testing has proven the theory, and now it is time to let the world see the results
Anyone suggest getting valve springs and retainers to go with these cams? Or stock valvetrain will work just fine? Correct me if I'm wrong, but with my current set up, I'm thinking Tri Flow cams, valve springs/titaniuum retainers and a good HP tune would mean I would also maybe need bigger injectors? Let me know what you guys think please!
Thanks
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
I am Running the TRI-Flow Cams,And LZM Balace Shaft Delete Kit,It pulls really good right from about3 thousand,right up to 7 thousand.RPM..But also the Best thing to do is get HP Tuning done to really make everthing work,he Stock programing is crap...
One thing i would look ito though is comp cams s/c grind...since by your name your going s/c...just a thought..
Anyone know?? Valve springs/retainers necessary? Would this get my RPMS a bit higher when i shift?
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
Well,For the time I am running the stock head set up,I installed a set of 380cc green top injectors,From my understanding running the Balance Shaft delete is the best way to get more RPM out of the motor..I could be wrong so please don't quote me on that,I had the HP tuning redone and with the bigger injectors we are not running lean at all,My New red line is 7100,It seems to pull all the way there,If you want to change Valve springs and such I would just go out get another head And port and polish it,And do you valve springs and such.Or just go out and get the Patriot Head and call it a day,Other than that all should work well with your stock head set up.Just as a side note.I was told anything over 7500 RPM Will cause Valve float,So I set mine at 7100 till I do head work,Hope it helps,Also ask PJ he is full of good advice..Later and best of luck.
