according to the post....u can extend the wires and relocate the temp sensor so it will read cooler air....however ..seeing as how the sensor probably works with resistance, wouldn't it just screw up the reading anyhow......if the wires are made longer...and if they are a different gauge, the risistance will increase....and the mod most likely wont we useful, and could in fact have a negative effect....correct me if i'm wrong....or post a more useful IAT mod....
IAT mods are mostly useless!!! Making it read cooler temp will just make the car run richer while not giving you any gains... If you installed an intake that doesn't have a hole for it, you're better off just drilling one and putting it where it's supposed too!!! If you really want it to read cooler than put a resistor in it, let it hang in the engine bay and go waste some gas... As far as I know there's no useful IAT mod!!!
the mods are basically useless as stated previously above, but as long as the intake charge is hitting the sensor, it doesn't matter where u place it. hope this helps a little.
People say that what doesn't kill you in this life
will make you stronger. I'm not sure if that is true
or not, but i do know one thing-You have to learn from
it and it has to make you better.......it has to.......
eh.....what if the sensor is disconected.........one of the wires was broken on mine, truthfully i didnt really notice any diff....just throws a code............on a different topic....i bought my car with sum mods already done....im wondering why it honeslty runs SOOO much better with sunoco 94 instead of regular.....i always ran regular and i put 94 in just for the hell of it....now it seems like my car just runs @!#$ty w/o it......
Instead of relocating it, you could install a resistor...er sorry, a performance chip to make your car run rich...er fast. They're all over eBay
Quote:
im wondering why it honeslty runs SOOO much better with sunoco 94 instead of regular.....i always ran regular and i put 94 in just for the hell of it....now it seems like my car just runs @!#$ty w/o it......
thats all in your head
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
no.......actually it ISNT all in my head.....i kno whow n/a low comp engines work....and i realize it doesnt make a big difference....i DIDNT put it in to try and get gains....i didnt say it makes me go fast........i didnt notice the difference until i put regular in my car after running 94 fora week.....it just generally runs ALOT smoother and idles smoother........u could be perhaps helpful and explain why it may be......or u could continue being a dick......im not an idiot dont treat me like a kid cuz i dont post all the time on any forums
as a new car is driven, its octane requirement can increase because of the buildup of combustion chamber deposits. This continues until a stable level is reached, typically after about 15,000 miles. The stabilized octane requirement may be 3-6 numbers higher than when the car was new. Premium or midgrade fuel may be advisable to prevent knock.
Mat Brown wrote:eh.....what if the sensor is disconected.........one of the wires was broken on mine, truthfully i didnt really notice any diff....just throws a code............on a different topic....i bought my car with sum mods already done....im wondering why it honeslty runs SOOO much better with sunoco 94 instead of regular.....i always ran regular and i put 94 in just for the hell of it....now it seems like my car just runs @!#$ty w/o it......
if you unhook it it thinks your car has a iat of -40 or thats what the scanner said
99redz24 wrote:
mat brown wrote:
im wondering why it honeslty runs SOOO much better with sunoco 94 instead of regular.....i always ran regular and i put 94 in just for the hell of it....now it seems like my car just runs @!#$ty w/o it......
thats all in your head
Mat Brown wrote:
no.......actually it ISNT all in my head.....i know how n/a low comp engines work....and i realize it doesnt make a big difference.......
you're right.. it doesn't make ANY difference at all.
Quote:
...i DIDNT put it in to try and get gains....i didnt say it makes me go fast........i didnt notice the difference until i put regular in my car after running 94 fora week.....it just generally runs ALOT smoother and idles smoother........u could be perhaps helpful and explain why it may be......or u could continue being a dick
ok, first he wasn't being a dick, but if thats what you want I'm sure most of the users would be more than willing to supply here since you're obviously a noob... and nobody likes a stupid noob who talks back.
(cracks knuckles)
Mat Brown wrote:
as a new car is driven, its octane requirement can increase because of the buildup of combustion chamber deposits. This continues until a stable level is reached, typically after about 15,000 miles. The stabilized octane requirement may be 3-6 numbers higher than when the car was new. Premium or midgrade fuel may be advisable to prevent knock.
so where did you copy and paste that load of bullshat from I wonder? This is definetly not your words because it doesn't follow the same "..........." layout as your other posts.
octane rating is how resistant to pre-ignition the fuel is, in other words, the higher the octane number, the hotter the temperature needed for the fuel to combust. This stops 'knock' in older engines because it acts as a faux timing retard since the spark from the plugs needs to reach a hotter temperature before the air/fuel charge finally ignites.
after .0000003 seconds of searching in google I came up with this:
The Low-Down on High Octane Gasoline wrote:
Are you tempted to buy a high octane gasoline for your car because you want to improve its performance? If so, take note: the recommended gasoline for most cars is regular octane. In fact, in most cases, using a higher octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner. Your best bet: listen to your owner's manual.
full article is here --->
The Low-Down on High Octane Gasoline
wikipedia wrote:
Effects of octane rating
Higher octane ratings correlate to higher activation energies. Activation energy is the amount of energy necessary to start a chemical reaction. Since higher octane fuels have higher activation energies, it is less likely that a given compression will cause knocking. (Note that it is the absolute pressure (compression) in the combustion chamber which is important - not the compression ratio. The compression ratio only governs the maximum compression that can be achieved).
It might seem odd that fuels with higher octane ratings burn less easily, yet are popularly thought of as more powerful. The misunderstanding is caused by confusing the ability of the fuel to resist compression detonation (pre-ignition = engine knock) as opposed to the ability of the fuel to burn (combustion). However, premium grades of petrol often contain more energy per litre due to the composition of the fuel as well as increased octane
full article here ---->
Wikipedia article for 'Octane rating'
and my favorite website of all... HowStufWorks.com which should be renamed to "noobcentral"
HowStuffWorks.com --->
whats does octane mean
I strongly suggest visiting these sites, and reading those articles. It'll give you a much better understanding of octanes and what they mean and hopefully if you pay attention you'll see why it doesn't do jack to make your car faster run better, run smoother, yadaydadyada, AND why it truly is "all in your head".
Mat Brown wrote:......im not an idiot dont treat me like a kid cuz i dont post all the time on any forums
www.google.com
use it. love it. shut your mouth and learn.
Some things to keep in mind, the jbody engines are programmed to run 87 octane, theres two sets of spark tables in the engine computer, when knock is detected it will revert to the lower table to prevent engine damage
To say that a higher octane can provide no benefit is not entirely true, you can take advantage of higher octane fuel by adding more spark advance to the engine computer, this of course can only be done through modifying the stock computer or using a stand alone, also in boosted applications higher octane is a must otherwise your a sitting duck for detonation.
But on a car thats setup for 87, running higher octane is a waste of money
Going back to the original question tampering with or disconnecting the IAT sensor will throw a code P0115 if im not mistaken, fooling the computer with resistors or the ebay mod, will make the engine think that its getting cold air which will make it dump more fuel and kill your gas mileage. Because of the fact you will be richer in some parts of your powerband you may notice more power if they were previously lean from the factory. Its a sloppy way of doing things and best results are seen putting the sensor in your intake pipe where it belongs
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Quote:
To say that a higher octane can provide no benefit is not entirely true, you can take advantage of higher octane fuel by adding more spark advance to the engine computer,
i agree, but you're making a change
on a stock engine (obviously what the original poster has if they're doing an IAT relocation "mod") higher octane fuel is worth nothing more than less money in your pocket.
on an engine thats actually modified, of course higher octane is going to be worth something. I've been running 93 ever since I started advancing my timing and tuning my air fuel ratios
but on my old 2200 OHV when it had bolt ons and no tuning whatsoever (before the invention of HPT), higher octane fuels didn't do jack
On the electronics side of the subject, wire does not have nearly enough resistance to worry about in this scenario. If it did, don't you think they'd use something with a little less resistance?
TO THE ORIGINAL POSTER: i actually did the mod a long time ago when i was new and extended the IAT using a bigger gauge wire and ran the IAT down by my driving lights not only did i not have any problems but it didn't seem to do much for performance,so that's why i started listening to alot of these guys' above and put the IAT back in the intake, because they know what their talking about.
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
the best thing to do is use a omega thermistor it reacts faster then the stock gm
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
[quote=97trd(???™)]the best thing to do is use a omega thermistor it reacts faster then the stock gm
stop messin around
everyone knows its the continuum transfunctioner.
Don't forget to use the Conjunction Junction,it will help you
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
