Some of you might of cought my previous posts regarding the shape my car is in currently.. The summation is that my #1 cylinder has 0 compression, and is apparently leaking through a valve to the number 2 cylinder. So, I'm going to take this opportunity to have some extra work done on the top of the engine. I have the documentation to accomplish it, and the time to make it happen.
Here's what I want to do.. I don't have my head off yet so I am unsure as to the damage I'm working with. The head should come off early next week (Monday - Tuesday) but regardless of weather I can use my head, or am required to buy a used head here's what I want to happen, and am unclear as to who to have the work done by, and what parts to get a hold of.
(not in any specific order)
1. Larger Stainless Steel Valves
2. 'Secret' Cam Swap
3. ARP Head Bolts
4. Felpro Gasket Set
5. Head Decking
6. Valve Job to Accommodate Larger Valves, Perhaps a 3 Angle Aswell
7. H.O. Manifold Stud Swap
8. New Lifters (Maybe)
Am I missing anything?
I have a contact for the valves, cams, head bolts, gasket set, H.O. Manifold, and lifters.
I am going to need to send my head away to a shop to have the work done to it though. Which would require:
1. Decking
2. 3-Angle Valve Job
3. Machining for Larger Valves
While it's there, I will have them install the valves, and Springs. Since I don't have the tool (or the knowledge) to not screw up my keepers, or head threads.
I could probably find some place locally, or simi-locally, but if there's a business that deals on the forums I would much rather use them since they would most likely have the most knowledge of my head, and how to accomplish what I need done.
Please reply to this thread if you have any input.
I am currently collecting bids for shop work, reply in the thread, or send me a PM.
-Matt
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For my next trick, I'll turn your momma out.
If you have all four plugs out, do you hear a psssh sound between 1 & 2 when doing compression tests? If so, that's the head gasket blown out between #1 and #2. I had that, but between #2 and #3. Sounded really weird when I ran it
I had done my head previously... 1mm oversize SS valves, port & polish, port-match, 3-way valve grind on stock seats to fit new valves. I had it dunked and pressure tested when the valve work was done... after I P&P'ed it. I didn't deck it the first time, no need... it was flat. After I blew up ring land #4, I decked it 0.006" to flat it out a bit. Not enough to change compression even a point...
Took about 12 hours of my own time to port & polish.. then $600 in shop work for the valves, testing, etc. Never flow benched it
Unless you're revving higher than stock, you don't need to change the springs or anything. I put new valve guide seals on.. pretty expensive too
...j
Hey John, I started my cylinder testing with a compression test, and concluded with a leakdown test. I'm fairly certain it's a valve in the head.. I could be wrong, I'm not a mechanic.. I just play one with my car.
Well.. It's strange.. See.. Cylinder 1 leaks like a sieve, but cylinder 2 holds fine compression, and the leakdown test showed inconclusive.. 70% of the time it would leak past the rings, and I would hear a slight whistle through the breather (normal), and other times it would seem to leak through the intake valve.. It could be said that I didn't have it in exact TDC, but that's difficult to do since it's pretty apparent when you hit TDC. Not all together an impossible notion however.. Cylinder 3 and 4 both tested good for compression, and leakdown.
I just would of thought that had it been a head gasket failure both cylinders would show similar symptoms. Ideas, Thoughts?
Question: What would you say your gains were after the head work? I know it's difficult to know where to start without a proper dyno test.. For you though.. I'll trust your butt dyno.
What would you say it gave you? Is it worth it?
BTW, I'll reply to your email in response to the service manual ASAP.. Sorry for the delay..
-Matt
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For my next trick, I'll turn your momma out.
Guess you won't know for sure until you pull the head off and see it with your own eyes
I had a lot better power thru the top of the band... never dyno'ed it, so I'll never know how much better. Dunno how much I killed the bottom end either.. worked great N/A after the re-assembly, also well with the GM S/C on it... til I blew it up, because I don't think it was flashed for the S/C... just a 5 speed flash... no idea how that works... but whatever... too late now!
John Lenko wrote:I put new valve seals on.. pretty expensive to
huh???!??!?! ive bought 2 sets of fel-pro's in my day, $20.00 each time.
Really? Damn... Fel-Pro set of 16 cost me like $100
Hey J, What's the best grinder bit to use for the P&P?
Just to clarify, I need to polish the exhaust, and just remove the casting lines from the intake, correct?
-Matt
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For my next trick, I'll turn your momma out.
John Lenko wrote:Really? Damn... Fel-Pro set of 16 cost me like $100
wow man, that really sucks, id try a different parts house next time-maybe yull have better luck.
Hey Z, Where did you get your Fel-Pro stuff?
-Matt
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For my next trick, I'll turn your momma out.
Does anyone know of any shops that post on the forums that would be able to do the machining for the oversize valves?
-Matt
