Ok guys I need some good advice or opinions.
I am rebuilding my ld9. I have already bought the secret cams, 1mm over size valves; manta part stiffened sports springs, and polished my exhaust and intake ports. I didn't go crazy on the intake but I did get the exhaust very smooth. I am going to use eagle rods, and wiesco pistons 40 over 10.5-1. I am sending my balance shaft assembly to JBO to get the neutral balance shafts. What do you guy's know of lightening the crank? I have been told it can cause some balance issues and where bearings out faster. Any ideas of where I can get my rev limiter changed? I would like to go to about 7500 rpm's. Anyways if there is something here that I forgot or that anyone thinks would be a good idea please let me know.
I do not want to use a 2.3 oil pump. I would like to keep most of my torque in the lower rpm range where it is now. Should I stay with the original cams or should I use my secret cams? How much larger throttle body should I use? Or should I use a bigger one at all? I have a header from pacer, and custom exhaust already. Under drive pulley, and CIA. Sorry for all the questions but any help would be appreciated.
definatly use the secret cams... i would suggest getting a larger TB as well. (send yours SMGmotoring.com) they can bore it out to as large as 58mm (at the butterfly) for $170.00 and they do AWESOME work. i did mine this way. dont let ppl fool you either, 58mm AT THE BUTTERFLY is all you can bore a stock 2.4 TB out safetly.
as for your rev limiter, you can either do one of two things, either buy your own hp tuners unit and learn how to use it, or send it to Shifted Tuning and he will do ANYTHING you want. although, i dont know if he will do it any longer or not, ive heard of another place in st louis missioui called "PnP tuning" they use the same stuff and can do the exact same things. shifted charges $180.00. idk bout pnp.
sounds like u have a very nice build ahead of you. although, with the secret cams you didnt need to buy the stiffer springs $60.00 will buy u a brand new set of stockers from gm and would be just fine.
if i were you i would only have your stock crank knife edged and balanced with your new forged stuff, it will be just fine.
I definetly want to have the crank knife edged. The only problem is no one around here has heard of knife edging or they wont touch it. The last guy I spoke with at one of the local engine shops said he wont touch a q4 he said because the engine its a throw away motor. (for some reason that kinda pissed me off.) I'll call him again and tell him its for a honda. Anyways I can send it in to jbp but I might as well cut off an arm for payment. I guess I can do some calling around there has to be at least one place within 100 mile radius of where I live that will do it.
I was quoted $500-$700 for knife edging that's when i said forget it.
I just want to add this bit of info for everyone. I got my valves from carcustomes he'sa bit less expensive then ipp. It took me a while to get ahold of him but once I did he got my valves out to me fast. He is a good business man and great to deal with. ( I feel like i'm on ebay leaving my response) Its just too bad he dont have more performance parts for the ld9. As i understand he is or will be doing a build on a twin cam soon. Maybe he can fab some parts for us
. As far as ipp goes thats where I got my engine kit, they were good to deal with as well and very helpfull when it came to finding what I was looking for. Jbp is good as well, they have helped me a lot as well.
My engine guy is doing a complete balance of the crank, piston, and rods for $200-250. He told me knife edging is not worth the time or money for either of us. I was told I wouldn't see any real gains from it.
Quote:
I am sending my balance shaft assembly to JBO to get the neutral balance shafts.
Tell me how that works out. I am still on the fence about the 2.3 oil pump. On day yes, one day no.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
brodycog wrote:I got my valves from carcustomes....As i understand he is or will be doing a build on a twin cam soon.
yes, Karo has a built twin cam
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
OHV notec wrote:brodycog wrote:I got my valves from carcustomes....As i understand he is or will be doing a build on a twin cam soon.
yes, Karo has a built twin cam
If I remember correctly someone else now has the sunfire.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
You want a 7500 rpm redline but you're gonna use secret cams to get there? I wouldn't recommend that, I don't see them making power past stock redline to be honest... they aren't that much more aggressive than stock.
As for the JBP neutral shafts - I have them and I have to say they are a nice piece... mine came with new clevitte bearings as well as the new shafts, all assembled. Keep in mind that if you go with main studs you need to notch the balance shaft box, so if you need this done you need to let JBP know ahead of time. (Saves you the hassle later trust me you don't wanna do machine work on it once assembled)
For crank work... it's all up to your budget and your goals... $700 sure sounds expensive for knife edging though.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
You do understand that the only cams big enough to have a 7500 limiter is the W41 cams. Anything smaller is just waste. Even on regular W41's cam it's pushing it.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
ok so I will leave my rpms alone then. I still want to have my crank knife edged. Less parasitic weight = more power, so Ive been told. Makes sense to me. It mIght not be much 3-4 pounds maybe. It will defenitly help though.
Do you think I should use bigger fuel injectors or will the oem injectors be fine after I tune the ecu? Its taking a long time for my pistons to get here. They told me 4-5 weeks its now the 5th week I'm getting excited I want to get this done soon. When i get it all finished I'll put up some pics.
brodycog wrote:I still want to have my crank knife edged. Less parasitic weight = more power, so Ive been told. Makes sense to me. It mIght not be much 3-4 pounds maybe. It will defenitly help though.
You don't knife-edge a crank to lighten it, you knife-edge it to reduce drag through the oil 'cloud' in the crankcase. Most of the time, this is accompanied by adding weight to the affected areas in the form of 'heavy metal' slugs. Lightening a crank is not always a good idea for engine longevity.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
OHV notec wrote:brodycog wrote:I still want to have my crank knife edged. Less parasitic weight = more power, so Ive been told. Makes sense to me. It mIght not be much 3-4 pounds maybe. It will defenitly help though.
You don't knife-edge a crank to lighten it, you knife-edge it to reduce drag through the oil 'cloud' in the crankcase. Most of the time, this is accompanied by adding weight to the affected areas in the form of 'heavy metal' slugs. Lightening a crank is not always a good idea for engine longevity.
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I was a little confused about that. Doe's anyone know if the make fluid filled dampners for our engines?
What size fuel injectors would be good to use?
brodycog wrote:What size fuel injectors would be good to use?
Just use an afpr to bump up pressure with stock injectors.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Mfk-223 wrote:You do understand that the only cams big enough to have a 7500 limiter is the W41 cams. Anything smaller is just waste. Even on regular W41's cam it's pushing it.
It really depends where your peak power is, modded 2.4's with 2.3 cams seem to make power higher in the power band than the 2.3 the cams came from. I'm using HO cams and revving even higher than that and it pulls very stronge all the way to redline.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
.. my LG0 with that Rockit Parts ECM liked to rev to 8, nice pull to...
but Brian's built LD9 still walked on me. and he has a LO intake cam (94)
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
You know you gotta love the post office. I sent my balance shafts off to jbp about 2 weeks ago. Jbp called me the day they got them and told me they were cracked. So I guess I am paying the $100 core fee. It's not too bad i guess. Hopefully by next week I will have that and all of my machine work done so I can start putting it all back together. I'm a bit excited and curious to see what kind of results I will gain from all of this. I will eventually order a hptuners some time in the future. Untill then I will slowely break in the engine.
I didn't think jbp was still taking orders n things.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
brodycog wrote: I would like to go to about 7500 rpm's. Anyways if there is something here that I forgot or that anyone thinks would be a good idea please let me know.
I do not want to use a 2.3 oil pump. I would like to keep most of my torque in the lower rpm range where it is now. Should I stay with the original cams or should I use my secret cams? How much larger throttle body should I use? Or should I use a bigger one at all? I have a header from pacer, and custom exhaust already. Under drive pulley, and CIA. Sorry for all the questions but any help would be appreciated.
time to rethink your formula , you cant keep 1 and do the other , with out VVTi or Vtech
also going larger valves alone will kill your low end , plus using a larger tb will also
Ok well then from the sounds of it my motor will perform better at high rpm's, it's what I understand anyways. Then I guess I will just break the engine in at the lower rpms, and when its broke in I will play around with the tuner and see what rpms work best. The only thing I know about the throttle bodies is that you want to maintain maximum velocity for torque. So I already know that the engine is going to move more air given it has bigger pistons and larger valves. Wouldn’t I need a bigger throttle body to accommodate for the extra air? Or since it is smaller will it create more velocity and therefore create more power (torque) at a lower power band?
Mastin wrote:I didn't think jbp was still taking orders n things.
-M
Yes sir they still take orders
brodycog wrote:Ok well then from the sounds of it my motor will perform better at high rpm's, it's what I understand anyways. Then I guess I will just break the engine in at the lower rpms, and when its broke in I will play around with the tuner and see what rpms work best. The only thing I know about the throttle bodies is that you want to maintain maximum velocity for torque. So I already know that the engine is going to move more air given it has bigger pistons and larger valves. Wouldn’t I need a bigger throttle body to accommodate for the extra air? Or since it is smaller will it create more velocity and therefore create more power (torque) at a lower power band?
the smaller tb will have a higher velocity at lower and higher speeds
you have to make sacrifices at 1 end or the other , as to small will drop the upper end power , but help out more on the low rpm , and bigger helps upper end and hurts down below
some where youll find a happy medium , that will not loose to much low end and top end
Ok...I finnaly got everything back from the machine shop. While i was inspecting the crank I noriced a gouge on the number one rod journal. Its about .125 of an inch long about 4/16ths of an inch wide and 4/16ths of an inch deep. I was a bit pissed about it when I called the guy that did it and asked him about it he said it wouldnt have any adverse affects and it shouldnt hurt it in any way. I think I need to call him again and explain to him the whole idea of me spending $345 for him to work on this and I get less then perfect work back is not accpetible. Anyways what do you all think will it be ok or should I bitch and make him pay for another crank. Other then that everything else looks great I have the rods, pistons, head and cams, housing all finnished. I jsut need to get a new oil pump and replace the bolts the machine shop lost.
