satrday i went to the shop to check valve clearance on my ld9 N/A MADNESS build.

Anyways stock when i took my engine apart it had a 1 pc timing chain tensioner.

Well i orderd a whole new timing kit and it came with a 2 pc tensioner.
When we timed the car to check valve clearance we used my stock 1 pc just to cheack clearance because we couldnt figure out the 2pc.

here are a few picture showing the problem.



As you can see in the picture above on the end of the guide there is a lil plastic tab keeping the guide from pivoting also what is spose to hole the guide in place some type of screw or dowel pin there is no threads in the hole where it should mount.




here is a picture of the 1pc worked perfect but iam wondering is there spose to be anything in the hole closest to where the guide connects on the left hand side of the picture?

Thanks for any help some one can give me but i need to get this figured out as soon as possible engine should be done monday tomarrow or tuesday so i will need to know by then.

here's a few pics of the build.







checked timing with some clay.






me


timing with the 1 pc the tensioner has 100,000 miles on it do you think i could just use my old 1pc instead of trying to figure out the 2 pc or should i just get a new 1pc? or use the 2pc?

Thanks,
Paul Tjepkes

The Pivot point for the 2 piece is a bit different from the 1 piece. It goes over the bolt (in your 2nd pic you can see the open bolt hole for it) for the timing housing. There is a special bolt with a stud, or post, on the upper portion that the shoe slides down over. I just had a GM dealer order up a couple for me (PM Chris Taetsch)




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

well is the 1 pc just a good as the 2pc or is the 2pc better?

Also where can i get the bolt napa?????

I like the 2pc alot better. I've seen to many 1pc's fail. If you take it apart, the only thing that keeps the 1pc from compressing is the small flat metal finger on the ratchet style teeth (and the spring pressure). The 2pc has a piston/vavle assembly that uses oil pressure, as well as spring pressure, to keep it from compressing. The only one I have really seen to have an issue with the 2pc is White Cavy. I've personaly seen a couple of the 1pc designs fail (my '95 Z24 I just bought a few months ago came home with a bad 1pc tensioner, and a whole mess of bent valves)




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Do you guys know if I would have a 1 piece or 2 piece on my '99 2.4 w/o EGR.

??

-Matt


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well where can i get a bolt/dowel for the 2 pc?? i need it by tuesday

I perfer the 1 piece myself. We have had bad luck with the 2 piece. Most factory motors (LD9's) have a 2 piee from the factory. Anytime I do a cam swap I put a 1 piece in.



FU Tuning

i think iam going to go with the 1pc just because i like it and it easier to use but mine has 100,000 miles on it if i clean in out inside and out could i still use it i don't see why not because what can really go out on it?

or should i just get a new one tomorrow?

I'm doing the cam swap.. In fact, I'm doing the entire 086 head swap.. Would you still recommend the 1 piece unit in lieu of my 2 piece (If I have a 2 piece)?

Also.. What would I have to change to convert from a 2 piece to a 1 piece? Are there any benefits? SpeedracerZ apparently likes the 2 piece over the 1 piece, why do you prefer the 1 piece over the 2 piece John?

-Matt


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I tried to take some pics of the 1pc design, but couldnt get any good ones. I couldnt find a complete 2pc design while I was out there.



after looking at it a bit harder, there is actually more to the 1pc then I had posted about before. It apears to have a spring loaded piece that pushes against the plunger from the side (against some teeth) as well as the spring from below. There is a ball covering the oil feed port, and on the two I have in the garage, I could not push the ball in, to see if its a spring loaded check valve. On the one from my '95, the side loading spring, with the anti-compress feature, seems to be what had gone bad, allowing my tensioner to compress, and the timing to jump.



on a side note, Paul....... whats up with the padded envilope, then paper wraped box, then electrical taped...... just for an ICM plug? little over kill, dont you think?





SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

lol when i brought it to ups they said i had to have it in a box so i was like what ever lol

Brain iam not sure if iam going to have the car running by the dells so i might just need to meet you up there the week after the dells or something. if you could pm me your phone again that would be great then ill let you know whats up.

yeah i took my 1pc apart and it seem to me that it should hold up. but i got a new one today should be here tomorrow.

Hey Paul, On another note.. What finish is on your head, and where did you have it done?!? It looks bad ass!

VERY NICE!

-Matt