okay, i just finish putting on my final piece (a new egr valve) of the rebuild of my 97 2.4 motor, i went to start it and it ran for about 2-3 sec. and died i checked the battery and it was low so i use a battery out of my van and the same thing, i listened for the fuel pump and everything came on and i saw no leaks coming from the injectors, the IAC after turning the key on than off made a buzzing noise i don't know if that's normal? once it starts and die it would have to sit for a couple of minutes to it'll start and die again, in between it'll just stall, is there a way to check for spark from the plugs? when you put the key in the theft light doesn't blank so i think the passlock is okay, i'm going crazy trying to figure this out i check everything over at least three times, HELP ME PLEASE
Do u have a alarm system in that car? Cuz if u do check to make sure all of the wires are hooked up cuz they have kill switches and it would make it do that start and then die, it happend to me and that was the problem.Other wise maybe the ignition module migght be bad but i think if that was bad it would turn over and not start.
Low fuel presser?
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
i have an alarm but it's not connected and how do you check the fuel presser on a 2.4 motor?
Well if u have it wired up but just not activated it will still not start if the kill switch is activated. Alls it takes is just one wire not hooked up to kill the car the way your talking about.
it don't have a built in kill switch,
Did you replace any electronics? ECU?? Sounds like theft lock.
FU Tuning
i never touch the ecu but the battery was not connected for atleast three months, when i try to start it the theft light is on solid and when i turn it over and then it dies the theft light is still on and the check engine light is still on, could it be the ecu???
i only replaced the radio and the egr valve
... there is a kent-moor "J" tool for the job.
with a friend, take a chanel locks on the return line and "pinch" it to block all return fuel, and see how it is\ if there is alot of presher.
worked on the Drag cavie anyways, but on that we had a FP gauge.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
it's off to the shop
to see what's up with it i'll let you guys know but thanks for the help
well the shop said it was my lifters so i picked up my car and checked the compression: 150 145 150 160 and i also broke it back down and checked the timing and everything was fine, when you turn it over by hand it would open the intake valves about 1" i don't know if they should open wider??
i checked the ICM to ECU with my meter and and read up and down .56-.03 giving it only ran for 2 sec. then i checked the ICM to CKP and it read 5 steady voltages. so then i check the fuel injectors put them in 4 bottles and had someone turn her over and inj. 2 & 3 fired first each time followed by 4 then 1.the fuel sprayed 1.5" wide and they all sprayed at different times except 2 & 4
all had fuel spraying out of them. should the oil pressure switch wire the brown one behind the intake cam housing read neg. constantly?
Try this.
Start the car and let it stall, but leave the key on.
Let it sit there for a good 10-15 minutes.
Then turn the key OFF (but dont take it out)
Then start it again. It should fire up this time. Sounds like you're having trouble with the anti-theft system going into tamper mode.
1 thing to remember about doing the theft re-learn, do not open the doors, don't operate ANY switches, do not touch the brake pedal or clutch, don't use the power windows or locks, don't mess with the radio, etc, etc. Proper theft re-learn depends intimately on the system "thinking" the car is not being tampered with in any way.
i had did the relearn before but the door was open i'll try it again after i let my battery charge, thanks
it's not the theft system, anymore ideas or just take it to GM??
