Alright, I want to know what people have done so far as far as balancing the bottom end of the engines. I got forged crank, rods, and pistons for just about 1/2 price and im going to be sending it off to be balanced soon if i need/ should do it this way.

Should i balance the bottom end ( crank, rods, pistons) seperate from the flywheel and the clutch? Then should i balance the flywheel and clutch to nutrial?

Only reason i ask is because what happens if the flywheel changed things in the crank balancing and you need to replace eather the clutch or the flywheel... that would throw everything else off.

I dontknow which is why i am asking. Let me know please!

I don't know this for a fact, and I'm sure that someone on here can answer for sure, but I believe all 3rd Gen J-body engines are internally balanced.
GM hasn't made an externally balanced engine since the mid to late 80's if I remember correctly.
I have always built engines internally balanced, and had the flywheel balanced and lightened separately.
That way you can change things, as you say. It would suck to balance everything together, then decide to change your flywheel.

Balancing the rotating assembly involves making all the pistons weigh the same, making the rods weigh the same and making sure the weight is distributed the same on each (piston end has the same amount of material as other piston ends, etc.), and finally making the counterweight force on the crank equal to the force of the weight of the pistons/rods on the crank.

Internally balance engines are designed so that all the counterweighting is inside the block.
Externally balanced engines have large weights cast or added to the flywheel and balancer to act as 2 extra counterweights outside of the block.

GM 4 cylinders are internally balanced. The flywheel and balancer SHOULD NOT have an effect on the balance of the engine and therefore should not be installed with the rest of the assembly when it is balanced. Both the flywheel and balancer should be zero balanced on ther own.

Balancing the assembly with them installed should not be a problem if the fly/bal are truly zero balanced in the 1st place, because the zero balance would not effect anything. The problem that could happen though is if the parts aren't really zero balanced, or if the tech balancing it does not know not to touch them to balance the assembly. If the parts weren't zero balanced, the tech would end up making the crank compensate for the bad parts and only parts that are balanced the same (whatever that is) could be used as replacement parts from then on. If the tech doesn't know not to touch them, he would simply treat them the same as externally balanced parts and make balance changes to the fly/bal that would have to be reproduced if parts are replaced.

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Ever herd of having an engine "balanced and blue-printed". back in the day when the tolerances on makeing the actual engine parts were not as tight as they are today, this was the thing to do. to make sure every part was within spec and than balancing them. If having a newer 4 cyl. block balanced is a must, couldn't tell ya, how deep are your pockets. but i dont think its as big of a deal as it was 20 years ago.

I recently had my 2.4 balanced. I was told that no changes were made to the wiesco pistons and eagle rods as they were perfect just the way they were. I was told that most high quality forged parts are very close if not spot on right from the factory. Very slight changes were made to my flywheel crank pulley and crankshaft. I was told that most newer 4cyl engines are very close from the factory. Just thought I would share with you what I was told.



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