Ok.. so I had the car dyno'd today. And I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a bit disappointed here. I'm putting 117.36hp and 120.96 torque to the wheels. Not very impressive. I've got the intake and exhaust, msd, RKsport plug springs, that's about it for the engine stuff...
my 1st question is, what's 117.36 at the wheels equate to at the crank? I know GM says that it's 140 at the crank stock and 150 torque at the crank stock... so I'm curious where I am at the crank and what if any improvements I've made to the stock numbers. I have an auto btw.
2nd question is... besides forced induction (which is what I'm really saving for now) what else can I do to A) prep for the turbo/supercharger and B) get a few more numbers out of the engine.
and just so no one thinks i'm pulling this *wonderful* numbers outta no where... here is the dyno sheet.
****ALSO... I'm running kinda lean, what should I do about that? Fuel pressure riser and some larger injectors?
Memeber since '99
cardomain New England Tunerz
That looks more like a heartbeat monitor than a dyno sheet.
FstCavZ24 wrote:That looks more like a heartbeat monitor than a dyno sheet.
yeah no kidding. something aint right with that sheet
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
Code Zero wrote:
besides forced induction (which is what I'm really saving for now) what else can I do to A) prep for the turbo/supercharger and B) get a few more numbers out of the engine.
****ALSO... I'm running kinda lean, what should I do about that? Fuel pressure riser and some larger injectors?
HP tuners...
that CAN improve your driveability (such as the granny shifting the 4t40 does), A/F ratios, an help you squeeze the most out of your motor. plus, it would be a recomended step if you force feed your motor with a turbo or supercharger. you can always retune later when you get it boosted.
1997 RedR - ZedR
Something is completely screwed up about that! Look at the blue torque curve! Hits 120 and dives down. You lean out a nice bit. Id say a good tune would do you wonders. You should probably go somewhere else too if possible. Just to see if you get the similar numbers/ irratic curves.
definitely that dyno sheet is not normal
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
We had like 7 people pull on the same dyno..and mine were the ONLY pulls that made the charts funky like that... haven't a clue wtf happened...
Memeber since '99
cardomain New England Tunerz
supposedly you lose around 15-20% power from the crank to the wheels, so multiply your number by 1.2 or something
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
which makes your numbers as good as stock
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
ya i forgot to mention that... typical rule of thumb for losses are 20% for transmission losses.
so yes, your numbers * 1.2 should give you crank measurements.
crank measurements * 0.8 should give you wheel measurements.
1997 RedR - ZedR
but get to a different dyno because if your graph is right, lol.. i can't imagine how driving that car feels
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
117.36X1.2=140.83
140.83x0.8=112.68
112.66x1.2=135.19?
the numbers dont add up.
20% of 117 is less the the difference of 80% of 140
but ive heard you loss around 20% in your TC alone. not to mention throughout the tranny.
i would up the number to 1.4 in an auto.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
Yea, that looks kind of insane. It's kind of like if you had NO2 and the button was off of one of those PS2 or Nintendo Turbo controllers which pulsate the signal. lol. Hmm, I just noticed, on the top right it says 'smoothing = 0', if this dyno run was normal, are all other runs that I've seen are smoothed maybe?
Also from what I see on the chart. It starts at 4k RPM and goes to 6k RPM and it's only showing 90HP to 120HP. If we could see the whole graph, it might be easier to diagnose the prob.
OH, and yea, I've read somewhere that an automatic pulls about 20-25% of power from the crank to the wheels, and a manual only pulls 10-15%.
I'd do what they said and tune it up with HP tuners, esp for the A:F.
the reason the graph is from 4k+ is because of the auto tranny... pulling has to be done in a gear that won't downshift when punched...so I had to get it rolling to 65-70 before I could floor it and not have it downshift... the 1st pull I was in 3rd and I hit it.. it downshifted, squeeked the dyno and pulled hard... the pull showed 180, but since it shifted we had to do pulls in the upper range... I'll check with the other guys that had there cars on the graph and see if there sheets show smoothing.. that might be why my chart looks like a$$. I was also told, recently, that the numbers on the graph are 10 low...so that might make things a little more respectable... Still a little worried about being so lean for so long.. which even the guy that runs the tune said was odd... well i've got a point to move forward from at least.
Memeber since '99
cardomain New England Tunerz
My eco dyno'd the same way. Couldnt figure out why it bounces so much.
On my auto eco, with intake, header, full exhaust i put down 126hp and 130tq
126/130.... ok so with the graph running 10 points low.. that would put my numbers at 127/130 Which would make sense since I've got the same mods less the header but plus an msd and plug upgrades
I feel a bit better knowing that someone else had the same issue with the graph being bouncy
Memeber since '99
cardomain New England Tunerz
