So i have had my 2001 cavalier for about a year now and i love the style of the car. the only thing i hate is the guts. first off its a auto and a 2.2l so i was wondering was there a way to get a more powerful engine that would work with the auto tranny or am i just better off to get a new car because it would cost so much? and if not what type of engine should i get and about how much would it cost?
the only way to keep your trans would be a v6 swap. the 2.4 and eco both have a different trans than the ohv, and eachother.
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Swap in the 2.2L ECOTEC, there are threads in the 3rd gen forum on how to do it.
so if i were to go new engine it looks like i'm going v6 4t45e. so where could i get one and where could i get it put in and how much we talkin. i have about 90 some hp now. what would be the change?
Well a 3400 v6 is going to be your target engine. 2000+ are the best ones to get and can be found in tons of GM vehicles, Grand Ams, Montes, Impalas, Ventures, Montanas, etc.
Having somewhere put it in is going to be impossible, unless you want to go to a good custom shop and pay out the ass no shop will touch that job.
More than a few guys here have done it themselves, in the end you'll end up with 180hp to the wheels or better.
Tinkles wrote:Swap in the 2.4L TWIN CAM, there are threads in the 3rd gen forum on how to do it.
fixed.
Wanting a nice set of black 17's with mint tires? Pm me.
z yaaaa wrote:Tinkles wrote:Swap in the 2.4L TWIN CAM, there are threads in the 3rd gen forum on how to do it.
fixed.
he has an 01. an eco swap would be a good choice
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meh, learn how to boost the 2.2 (make your own kit) and be done with it, or FIND someone here to perform a swap for you.
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
Just do p the engine. You dont need to boost it. Simple bolt-ons, may or may not be enough for your taste. There are three areas that makes this engine lack power. First, compression. It only has a 9:1 compression, which is what most people use to boost their ecotecs, or 2.4's. Second, a very congested head. A good port and polish, and some new valve train parts can open the head up completely. Finally, the cam. The cam in these engines is for one thing, and one thing only. Make as much torque as possible at around 2000 rpm, for good fuel economy. A new cam regrind will easily do more then any other single mod besides turbo, but you will need several other mods for the engine to handle it. A ported and polished head, with a mild cam regrind with performance in mind will open this little engine right up. Probably put 120hp to the wheels with an intake and exhaust and motor mounts. Depending on how good you are mechanically, this could run you less then 500 bucks + the cost of bolt-ons. A b&m shift plus may also help a lot to make the engine feel less sluglish. All of this is much cheaper then the eco swap, or 2.4 swap, or v6 swap and a lot easier and faster as well.
99redz24 wrote:z yaaaa wrote:Tinkles wrote:Swap in the 2.4L TWIN CAM, there are threads in the 3rd gen forum on how to do it.
fixed.
he has an 01. an eco swap would be a good choice
lol, the eco is a good engine. im just busting balls. but i do think that since in 01 the eco did not come in the car the right choice would be the ld9.
Wanting a nice set of black 17's with mint tires? Pm me.
^^ Don't forget adding higher ratio rockers! That alone with the stock cam will give you an "Oomphft" in the low-end that you may be desiring. But be sure to search here for anything 2.2L/2200/LN2 related so you have a clear idea as to what all can be done. The LN2 is considered an "investment" engine, meaning that for those whom lack the neccessary for a large initial investment for a power build-up (Money, tools, skills) but want to make some improvement over what is & learn the intricacies of the physics involved in engine building as well as what is done. More power can be had from any engine, some just take more headwork ("Use your head", that is...) than others because of the lack of support due to popularity that's effected by boasted power numbers for production engines. This is a very old & true rule that goes as far back as when Ford introduced the flathead V-8 and the contrast it had to their I-4 flathead & will never cease, even if automotive engines become nuclear. Anyway, just look around here and you'll see what all can be done for & to the double-deuce, as well as what can result. And as for the B&M Shift Plus, don't bother... I've heard nothing but disappiontment results from guys who've use it. All it does is raise the line pressure which in turn effects the frimness of the shift, not it's effective point. My advice there would be get a HP Tuner & have a qualified trans builder set the parameters for you, and invest in a good trans cooler. You'll need one!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
ill have an eco block and head next month... spare ones i mean.. ill actually have 2 spare eco heads and 1 block.. 1 head is spoken for already though
might have some stock pistons and such too, not sure how much ill be left over with
12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
4bangerdeathsquad wrote:evilmonkitar wrote: 1 head is spoken for already though
Innuendo?
nah, it was serious. one of the heads is spoken for.
12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
You can swap the engine although it'd be cheaper and easier to work with what you have (port/polish and then push 8psi of boost). You'd about be better off getting a diff. car.
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