Does anyone know if theres a way to eliminate the a/c compressor without buying the pulley and just getting a smaller belt or is it impossible and buying the a/c eliminator pulley the only way? If anyone has done this any info will really help. Thanks
IF you're talking about an ecotec ..........
yes you can just take it all out and just use a smaller belt. the part number for the belt is 345K5 i believe
The one, the only, ME.
2465 lbs without me
141 hp @ 6300 (ran out of rpms)
123 ft lbs @ 5200
running lean on stock ECU
megasquirt here i come
its possible, yes... people have done it. not really sure exactly how. the people im thinking of had problems with the belt squealing every once n awhile though.
how come you want to get rid of it? performance gain? it doesnt really help a whole lot if any because the ac compressor has a clutch system to it where it doesnt engage the compressor until the ac has been activated. so basically when the ac is not in use it just spins freely.
Rollin' on question marks since 07.
mine's never had any issues even the slightest as squealing. all i did was put the smaller belt on. a friend of mine uses the smaller belt without removing any of the system also, if you wanted to go that route. one thing it is a tight fit, tighter then stock but it will go.
The one, the only, ME.
2465 lbs without me
141 hp @ 6300 (ran out of rpms)
123 ft lbs @ 5200
running lean on stock ECU
megasquirt here i come
This is how I did the LD9.
No a/c delete pulley necessary and it works flawlessly.
Also, since the original poster didn't mention what engine, I'm just taking a wild guess on what you're driving.
The picture is of a 2.3 quad engine and was the inspiration for me to do the a/c delete in my Cavalier.
Since my a/c died, I had no more need for it and the weight savings is a bonus.
Good luck with it.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
Well I own a 98 Cavi with a 2200. I tried the non-ac belt. it actually caused slipping on the water pump because I didnt make a complete "wrap" around the water pump. Advanced Auto parts sold me a AC delete for $30 I think. But I get a discount.
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www.bradsairsoft.com
James- have you ever had a problem with it squealing??
Wouldn't it also be possible to run the belt on TOP of the tensioner?? that way the ribbed side of the belt wouldn't be running on the tensioner......
Rollin' on question marks since 07.
z yaaaa wrote:James- have you ever had a problem with it squealing??
Wouldn't it also be possible to run the belt on TOP of the tensioner?? that way the ribbed side of the belt wouldn't be running on the tensioner......
thats plausible to run the belt on top of the tensioner, but you would probably need a longer belt. also, the tensioner would not be putting any tension on the belt that way. 345K5 and 350K5 seem to be the ones people are using. best bet is to measure out the length of belt you need with a string. i may be doing this as well and installing the belt for the track only.
as for mentioning the 2200 belt slip on the water pump, twin cams and quads need not worry about that as the water pump isnt belt driven.
the only reason to run the belt on the car at all is to keep the alternator going. if its track purpose only, belt could be removed completely, but i wouldnt really recommend that. im looking into getting the shorter belt for my car, as the a/c compressor wheel is still rotating mass, and since mine sometimes sounds like its on the way out, may not be a bad idea to bypass it anyways.
1997 Cavalier Z24 - 15.647 @ 88.02 MPH
Zyaaaa, no problems at all with any belt squeal.
And as whitegoose( RedR-ZedR) stated, this is the only way to run the belt with actual tension on it from the tensioner.
I've checked the belt for any unusual wear from the ribs being on the tensioner and no issues.
Oh and here's the belt that I used for the setup.
Keep in mind that I'm running the AEM underdrive pulley and the RK underdrive pulley so your belt may vary a bit.
Good luck with it.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
you guys are great , i have a 97 z24 with the 2.4 twin cam. what do u think Misnblu will it still work the way you have yours its somewhat familier but wanna make sure first. and how did you get the size for the belt did you try it with a string first or what?
james-have you had any adverse side effects from running both those pullies?? ie major charging issues?
Rollin' on question marks since 07.
Quote:
you guys are great , i have a 97 z24 with the 2.4 twin cam. what do u think Misnblu will it still work the way you have yours its somewhat familier but wanna make sure first. and how did you get the size for the belt did you try it with a string first or what?
I measured the belt by using the original belt that I had with the a/c. All I did was wrap the belt around the three pullies that were left as best as I could with the original belt and pinched off what I didn't need. From that pinch point, that was the approximate length of belt I needed.
Remember too that doing any kind of measurement won't yield the exact size you'll need. The tensioner has to be stressed to do it's job of providing tension for the belt so measureing with a string, wire, rope, or whatever you do measure with won't be accurate because you won't be able to provide the tension of an actual belt.
So having the basic measurement, I took it to the auto parts store and told them I needed a belt of this size plus the next two sizes smaller.
Having three belts to work with, you're less likely to have to make alot of runs to the auto parts store.
I still wound up going about 3 times to the store because one particular store didn't have a size I needed so off I went to the next parts store.
It was worth the effort to make those runs because the belt you see in the pic is what I'm now using with proper tension on the tensioner.
Brad, having two underdrive pullies keeps the car out of charge mode until about 1300 rpms.
In other words, the car is running on the battery on anything less than 1300 rpms and is usually dropping voltage according to my volt gauge.
I don't have a big stereo system or anything electrical that draws alot of power so I don't really worry about it.
I do keep my eye on the volt gauge though as I don't want to drop below the 11.5 volt range when sitting in traffic or at a stop light.
Once I go about 1200-1300 rpm, the car starts charging and goes to the required 13.8 to 14.2 range.
I've never had an issue with the car dying because of the under driven status. At night, I'm more watchful of the voltage because the headlights and sometimes fan can draw quite a bit when at a traffic light, traffic jam, or slow traffic. In situations like this, I usually just rev the car a bit or make sure I take it on the highway for a few miles before I shut it down.
I doubt most people would want to go through all of this just to underdrive their alternator and crank.
But to me, I wanted to extract every bit of power the car has and have made that sacrifice of being careful with the voltage readings.
This is also another reason why the belt I'm using for the car may or won't fit others.
Also, in doing the above a/c delete conversion, I did have to remove one bolt from the timing chain cover to keep the belt from getting rubbed. It was no big deal and again, I do some things (a compromise of sort) that others won't in order to achieve the end results.
Hope this helps.
Sorry for the book.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
not a problem, i just know that when i had my aem alt pulley and rsm UD crank pulley on the car didnt like it one bit, it was always dying. i then just ran the UD crank pulley and the charging issues still remained, just not as bad. it wasnt nothing to have to charge the battery any time i wanted to drive the car. my 180 amp alternator is mostly certainly to blame for some of this though, it doesnt put out as much at idle as a stocker but when you get it up in the charging range look out!! lol
this year im running all stock sized aluminum pullies so i dont think i will have any more issues (hopefully)
Riddle me this... riddle me that...
i have a 97 z24 with the 2.4 twin cam. just want to make sure that belt #5PK857 is the right belt to use when eliminating the a/c pump been searching for awhile now just want to double and triple check before i do this
chris m wrote:i have a 97 z24 with the 2.4 twin cam. just want to make sure that belt #5PK857 is the right belt to use when eliminating the a/c pump been searching for awhile now just want to double and triple check before i do this
It probably won't.
I'd suggest that you buy a belt smaller than the above and one larger.
Return whichever belt doesn't fit and keep the one that does.
You may even have to make a couple of trips to the parts store to get the right sizing.
Good luck with it.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
thanks Misnblu i will more then likely try that when i have the time for now the only thing i can do is keep searching unless somebody out there knows the proper size belt i need
sorry to bring back such an old thread, but i tried doing this today and had no luck. i went in, loosened the idler pulley , and the belt still stayed tight. i have a 96 ls 2.4L
this is the diagram i was using (but in a chiltons book)
thanks for any help
bump. stillllll cant find out how to loosen the belt. any help?
cut it off. put the right belt on.
failing to prepare is preparing to fail.
When you loosen the idler try sliding the belt off the idler not the alternator. The alt. has too deep of grooves to get the belt off that way.
z yaaaa wrote:cut it off. put the right belt on.
I'll still have to adjust the idler to put the new one on though.. right?
There's no adjustment to be made on the idler.
All you do is relieve the tension of the tensioner to be able to install the new belt. That's it.
Good luck.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
to relieve the tension just rotate the nut on the pulley clock wise, pulley will move releasing tension.
As for no a/c i did it to my 96 and no problems. I have an underdrive crank pulley too, almost couldnt find a small enough belt.
...but when a long Train of Abuses and Usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object,
evinces a Design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, it is their Right, it is their Duty,
to throw off such Government, and to provide new Guards for their future Security...
so does anyone sell an a/c delete kit for an 2000 LD9...or does you everyone fabricated their own?
