We have a 2200 from 2001 and its been about a 3 weeks since i last drove it... the battery was dead, jumped it got it running and decided to drive... I was a little brisk as i wanted to "blow out the cob webs". was heading back to my house, got to 6k rpm, let it idle down as i slowed, then it started popping and when i revved it. sounded like it was on 2 cylenders. babied it back up to the garage and revved it a few times to see if i could hear anything off key... it literally had half the revs. And the smell... it smelled like burnt popcorn...
I believe one of my coil packs went out.... but i didnt smell raw fuel...
Anyone else have any input!?!
Speed is relative. But the feeling is absolute.
How many miles are on it? If it's around or above 100,000 then you just suffered the dreaded LN2 timing-chain curse. For some bazaar reason the factory timing chain (Not the double-roller that's so beloved & suggested for use in a performance build-up!) has a tendency to fail around that many miles. In fact, my '00 'Noma with the same engine had it fail very suddenly a few weeks ago just after I started it cold in the driveway, just as I put it into gear (It has 115,000mi on it). True, there are a few examples here of the timing-set lasting much longer (How is beyond me, unless the reports left some details out!) but around 100,000mi is when they usually fail. At least in the truck-applications, it seems.
BTW: The GM factory in-tank fuel pump fails at around 135,000mi, just to let you know.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
if your pack did by chance go out, I'd swap them side to side to see if it makes a difference, other wise it could be an ignition control module.......I've never heard of timing chains going on the ohv at 100k but if by some chance it did your car wouldn't run at all......
I would have to say no on the timing chain. The non interference engine would stop all together. The car still runs. Just acts like its running on 2 cyl.
If I swapped coils, wouldn't it do the Same thing, just the other bank?
she has 124k miles on her now.
Speed is relative. But the feeling is absolute.
Same thing happened to me years ago befor the swap... one of the coils was cracked... changed them out and was all good!
491whp, 393wtq
11.93@ 127mph
Raven Autosports (902)850-3330
AutoXChris wrote:
If I swapped coils, wouldn't it do the Same thing, just the other bank?
she has 124k miles on her now.
thats correct the other bank would stop running but you would then know which pack was bad.......and I wouldn't worry about the fuel pump my 01 2200 went out at 40k and the sunfire by buddy drives has 188k on it and he got it off of a person whom I know and its still on the oem pump.
If you find out its the ICM let me know, I have one from my Sunfire (had 73xxx miles on it when I parted it out). Id be willing to let it go cheap as its just sitting around. I think i have a few coilpacks hanging around here too, but those are cheap. I think the ICM is a bit on the expensive side.
Good luck with it, and let us know what you find out!
"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire
will do... im off work, and im going to crack into it and see what up.
...lucky enough i have an early 90's chevy corsica V6 that has the same coil packs... so i have spares to try!
Let you guys know tonight what i find!
Speed is relative. But the feeling is absolute.
I should get a cookie....
So i started it up today to see if it was still doing it... it started and ran fine. Revved it a few times. basically wanting it to start doing it again... I was going to get it to do the misfire again so i could check the plugs. Wet means i have lost spark, dry and charred means blocked up cat.... plus i would be able to see which coil wasn't working.
So i'm still revving it and trying to get it to sputter. I hopped out and closed the hood. got back in so i could drive it around the block... it sputtered and stalled out... huh....
went to start it, and it started and sputtered and rough idle. Opened the door, started running fine, closed the door and it tried to stall out. Opened the door one more time to find that my tach wire that i routed around the fender and into the door sill had come loose and was between the henge and was exposed and shorting out. Freakin Great!
(also in notes should mention that he just installed new hinges on the divers side and though it was a wierd conicidenc that this should happen after the operation of taking off the door and fender in order to replace said hinges.)
wierd mistake+human error=waisted post!
sorry for the waist of time, and many thanks for the suggestions!
Speed is relative. But the feeling is absolute.
Hey, speaking of installed tachs, what wire did you connect the tach's trigger-lead to under the hood specifically? There's a few guys here with the same engine that haven't a tachometer that would like to install one & want to know!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
^ thats an easy one....on cars 2k and up just swap the cluster its plug an play cav and sunturd alike. Or...you can tap into the factory tach wire in the ecu and use a tach that can run on a 2stroke motor and keep it on that setting the rpms will register just fine without a tach adaptor........or you need to get a tach adaptor and install one that way
Thanks, JUSNBST! Now all I have to do is get on to install in my '99 'Noma. My '94 LS dime already has one in-dash from the factory, and it sure comes in handy for when you're trying to drive normally & get good mileage. Besides, I like to be able to keep my eye on what all is going on.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Nickelin Dimer wrote:How many miles are on it? If it's around or above 100,000 then you just suffered the dreaded LN2 timing-chain curse. For some bazaar reason the factory timing chain (Not the double-roller that's so beloved & suggested for use in a performance build-up!) has a tendency to fail around that many miles. In fact, my '00 'Noma with the same engine had it fail very suddenly a few weeks ago just after I started it cold in the driveway, just as I put it into gear (It has 115,000mi on it). True, there are a few examples here of the timing-set lasting much longer (How is beyond me, unless the reports left some details out!) but around 100,000mi is when they usually fail. At least in the truck-applications, it seems.
BTW: The GM factory in-tank fuel pump fails at around 135,000mi, just to let you know.
My mom is driving a '00 'Noma with the 2200 in it with about 155k miles on it. We have yet to replace the timing chain or the fuel pump but she is extremely gentle on it. If the timing chain fails on it, what will most likely get damaged, I would like to convince her to replace it ahead of time.
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Yes, noob, the search button is for you...
Depends on how severe the failure of it is. My '94 had a failure before I got it, and it went to pieces. It got replaced but the idiot mechanic that worked on it failed to "fish" the pieces outta the pan, and so the oiling system picked the fragments up & fed them to the engine. Now just so you get an idea of the damage done, the oiling system priority on the LN2 is as follows: Lifters & cam bearings (Lifters being fed from a branch-off of the galley to the cam bearings), mains, then rods.
I replaced the crank in the engine first-thing when I got hold of the truck, only to find the lifters were contaminated (Frags!). The result was a diesel-like knocking sound for the rest of the days I had it, until one winter day they finally fully colapsed, resulting in a no-start. Having no garage to use I sent it off to get a rebuild. When the shop called mid-way through the work they told me the lifters were so bad they were seized in their bores because of the scoring (Damn frags!). The saddest part was 35,000mi after I got it back, it failed again (Damn cheapo shop using substandard parts!!), but it wasn't severe like I feared it would be (It just happened in the driveway one day when I went to start it). I replaced it with the genuine GM set, and it's been fine since.
The irony: The '99 (Sorry, it's not a '00. My error!) was bought to replace the '94 when it's chain failed. And then it's chain failed... Can you appreciate that situation?
All I can say is: It's best to be prepared. Get one of both & keep them in stock for when they do. The chain is "cake", compared to the pump which is something odds-are you will need to put it on a lift to do.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
