well I finally finished my built LD9 and my dam tranny cant keep up with my engine now......will that B&M shift plus help...is it worth the 40 bucks it cost?
GMR has got nothing on this
rebuild the trans...
upgrade the bands and clutches
get a higher stall converter
and make sure they do work on the valve body to increase the line pressure for firmer and stronger shifts....
i dont know how serious you are into this project, but 1500$ on avg for this unless you know a place that can do the work for less or DIY....
and above all....trans cooler. add one. operating temps are 175-195 normally..... most times in a cavalier you will rise well above this...in most cases outside of the winter, its nearly impossible to overcool transfluid.
if your going to rebuild it anyways and the tranny fluid has never been flushed and filter has never been changed go ahead and try that first.
if you have kept up with the filter/fluid changes then dont worry about it but ive heard about some FWD tranny's going bad after they have had the fluid flushed just because the tranny has been worn with the same fluid over those higher mileage numbers.
if not, i have a 4t40e that came out of a 00 alero. on the cheap!
John Higgins wrote:What do you mean it can't keep up?
My guess is that he is bouncing off the redline before it's done shifting. A lot of the boosted auto guys have a problem with the transmission not shifting quick enough from 1st to 2nd gear so it will bounce off the redline a couple of times before it completes the shift. The thing is that this usually happens for the boosted guys putting down a lot of power and not really n/a guys.
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yep and it is happening to me....im like when the hell is the shift at....then it comes all late after I drop rpms....but I guess i'll just try and save for the hp tuners now.
i do plan to change out the fluid and filter.....last time I did it was before I drop in the engine.........so that was a while
GMR has got nothing on this
Funky Bottoms (Event) wrote:rebuild the trans...
upgrade the bands and clutches
get a higher stall converter
and make sure they do work on the valve body to increase the line pressure for firmer and stronger shifts....
i dont know how serious you are into this project, but 1500$ on avg for this unless you know a place that can do the work for less or DIY....
and above all....trans cooler. add one. operating temps are 175-195 normally..... most times in a cavalier you will rise well above this...in most cases outside of the winter, its nearly impossible to overcool transfluid.
FORGET ALL THAT NOISE JUST SWAP TO A MANUAL
If you have got havings issues with your auto shifting under the stock settings. The last thing you want to do is modify it with HPT
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
if someone doesnt want to swap to a manual then its not really "nonsense"....
while swapping to a manual is a legit option, if he wants to keep an automatic, then build it up. theres plenty here that have done so with an automatic and actually know what they are doing
but its simply all about preference.
Quote:
A lot of the boosted auto guys have a problem with the transmission not shifting quick enough from 1st to 2nd gear so it will bounce off the redline a couple of times before it completes the shift. The thing is that this usually happens for the boosted guys putting down a lot of power and not really n/a guys.
thats where the shift kit comes into play. the increased line pressure shortens shift times and also keeps it from lagging/slipping during the shift. and if you are boosted, the upgraded bands and clutches will surely last longer and be more efficient with heat.
as said its a suggestion.
thankz for the feed back....For now I'll changed the tranny fluid or atleast half of what I can get since I cant get to the converter, and swith the filter and try out the shift plus in the mean time as i save for the HPtunerz....cause I really need to tune my car!
GMR has got nothing on this
yes man, you certainly do need to tune it.
event... links to this 4t40e internal shift kit?
z yaaaa wrote:yes man, you certainly do need to tune it.
event... links to this 4t40e internal shift kit?
heres the main link
http://www.levelten.com/store/gm_home.htm (they have the transmissions that they have parts for) that links to
http://www.levelten.com/store/gm_fwd.htm
they sell the parts and also give instructions on how and where to modify the valve body for increasing line pressure. a while back, when i looked into modding my 3 speed, i also looked into just buying a fully built 4 speed from them.
the majority of most automatic shift kits really consist of a few small parts changes and drilling out a hole in the plate that goes over the valve body.
a well equipped shop should be able to get most of this done in a 2 days or less, with all parts and instrutctions present.
another site i remember from back in the day is bulkpart.com they have master overhaul kits, but their manuals for the transmissions had tips on what holes to drill out on the valve body plate to increase the line pressure.
so all it does is increase the line pressure?
ATI, B&M and HPT can accomplish this.
z yaaaa wrote:so all it does is increase the line pressure?
ATI, B&M and HPT can accomplish this.
a full rebuild, when going for performance, does the following...
-the valve upgrade body increases the line pressure. (while this is what the interceptor, B/M stuff does... this is about all thats held in common between a rebuild and add on electronics)
- upgraded clutches and bands offer higher levels of grip....same as you would upgrade a clutch in a manual and for the same reasons. the friction plates are made of a more durable and higher friction material. when you are throwing out far more HP in lets say a manual..... what do you want....the stock clutch or the stage 2 or higher? more or less the same goes for auto transmissions. Red Eagle is a good company of clutch packs. thats whats currently in my cavalier.
- pumps are usually upgrades to produce more pressure with the same function. the easiest way of explaining that would be how you can upgrade from one turbo to a more powerful turbo OR i can use the analogy of oil pumps.... there are high volume and high pressure versions of stock.... while the engine will run at the same rpms, more output of the oil pump...or turbo occurs.... the same goes for the upgraded pumps.
-the lock up valves and solenoids are usually more heavy duty and durable as well.... the quicker and stronger they operate, the more accurate the transmission is in shifting. especially in high heat situations such as racing.
-most already know about torque converters to compliment trans rebuilds performance wise, but thats optional.
thats mainly the basics in advantages over just upping the line pressure as i remember it.
also lately i have been looking to do the same for my charger.... i did run across another performance transmission place for the 4t40e and 4t45e transmissions.
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/gmautofwd.shtml
Quote:
4T40-E / 4T45-E GENERAL MOTORS FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
Cavalier, Malibu, Cutlass, Alero, Grand Am, Sunfire
Valve bodies are custom calibrated to provide firm, efficient shifts.
Modified pressure regulation system to furnish precise line pressure increase as needed with open throttle conditions.
Redesigned converter clutch apply circuit to yield greater holding capacity under high horsepower use. <------- This i believe would cure what the original poster is experiencing
New Solenoids installed
Modified pressure control solenoid installed (4T65E)
Additional Clutches Installed
Hi-Energy Friction Material Installed
Modified pump to increase volume and enhance fluid flow throughout the unit.
Heat treated pump driveshaft to prevent spline stripping
Heat treated apply sleeve to prevent breakage
Modified aftermarket front sun gear to prevent the pitting and galling often associated with the OEM part.
Heat treated final drive sun gear to prevent the metal fatigue associated with the OEM part.
New Torrington Bearing set installed to reduce frictional losses and prevent component failure
High strength drive chains utilized to prevent stretch and skipping teeth.
Limited Slip Differential available (optional)
4T40-E and 4T45-E: $2975
Please call or email us to order a complete transmission.
Overhaul Parts Qty Price ea.
IPT Performance Transmission Rebuild Kit- 4T40-E and 4T45-E
$495.00
i put the last part in bold cause you can buy the kit if anyone wants to DIY or have a local place do the work.... there are more prices listed in the link of various parts.
now, that may be more involved than most want to get, but let it be known it IS out there for those that can actually utilize it.... they do pretty much everything from upgrading the chains inside to heat treating gears as well as many other parts that are prone to failure under high stress race conditions...
just another place with more options...
hey i was merely talking about the shift kit. nothing more as compared to the ATI, B&M and HPT.
i know about everything your preaching, man. mine will hopefully be getting a lot of the treatment this winter.
OP: 1.) If the manufacturer's service mileage recomendation is significantly overdue; replacing 100% of the fluid would introduce a high detergent content and release varnish which has become part of the working mechanism and COULD cause a total failure. I recomend pan/filter drops over a T-tech flush anyday. Just FYI
2.) It cost me $2500 to build my 4t40e, financially I wish I had gone with a manual swap. But a fast auto cav..... is the shizniz. Boosted is better
3.) I think a B&M shift plus MIGHT help you till you can afford HPT. I have one for sale, PM me.
4.) A custom converter is the best 5 bills I ever spent. IPT hooked it up. I stalled 3.5k stock tune, 3.7k semi-tuned, incredibly streetable.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
z yaaaa wrote:hey i was merely talking about the shift kit. nothing more as compared to the ATI, B&M and HPT.
i know about everything your preaching, man. mine will hopefully be getting a lot of the treatment this winter.
didnt know giving more info on something was "preaching" but whatever....
shift kit wise.... yes and no.
electronically raising the pressure causes the pump having to work harder to raise the pressure.
going into the transmission, the valve body is modded to allow more flow and pressure, so the pump isnt overworking itself.
no different than increasing blood flow in a human. overworking the heart will flow more blood, like when you exercise..... but then again taking a vaso-dialator that enlarges the blood passages can flow the same, but less stress and work for the heart.
all depends on how you wanna go about it.
thats the difference between the two...
the market for the 4t40e has come a long way in a very short time and i plan to show people that a 4t40e can hold as much power as a 4t65e because i know it can. the only thing that worries me is that the DSS stage 5 axles wont hold up to my launches. i cannot wait to get my trans brake on my 4t40 either. should be fun.
there are so many sites and parts that can get gotten for the 4t40 now. also i believe some of the 4t65 parts can be interchanged
The motor looks nice!
Personally I would get a tuning first, then when the tranny breaks I would get it rebuilt with performance oriented parts mentioned by others in this thread.
2003 Sunfire with 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler, 2 1/4 piping, 2 1/2 inch resonator, a 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter, 2 1/4 inch down-pipe, a ported LSJ manifold, E-bay strut brace, and an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition.
