Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:pm him.
I'm pretty sure it fits, but as I told Sidney, I'm not 100% certain.
MPFI-check
EGR-check
Cooling should all be the same, so should oiling.
Manifolds should be the same.
Was there any provision made for either flat tappet or roller lifters that might prevent the head from working?
Built 94-97 head for sale: http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/47069/
Hi josh, maybe you can post the pics of the block. Thanks,
Sidney
pretty sure they do the new ones i "THINK" got bigger valves but thats it should still work
JBO since July 30, 2001
Hi, nickelin a little help here please. Thanks.
Sidney
From what all I've gathered in my research on this engine (And can remember off the top of my head) it should bolt-up. The "eyebrows" added in '94 were just to clear the injectors, and will be covered fully by the '92 maniflod & gasket. The only changes made for roller vs. flat-tappet cam were to the short-block in the lifter valley itself, so no worries there. The only area of concern seems to be the coolant outlet mounting, were one more bolt hole was added in later years (IIRC). If so, a simple Allen-hex plug installed & machined even with the surface will do it just fine. If the water outlet on your car has more bolt holes, match it up with the ones that do match it on the head & have the others that aren't there drilled & tapped and again you'll be fine.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Correction: It's a total bolt-on. Nothing to drill, tap or plug. In fact, it's used as a service replacement all the way back through '92, so go ahead & slap that baby on!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Great news, thanks a lot nickelin, slow and all of you guys. Today my new cyl head was shipped and will be here in Peru on Monday! And my new Cam too. I'll let you know the final results. Thanks again.
Sidney
Just remember to lash the rockers like you would a Small-block Chevy, and you'll be fine.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Oooooops! What's that? The head is fully assembled, can you give me some clues about that procedure so I can translate and transmit it to my mechanic? Thanks Nickelin.
Sidney
Sidney Fernandez de Castro wrote:Oooooops! What's that? The head is fully assembled, can you give me some clues about that procedure so I can translate and transmit it to my mechanic? Thanks Nickelin.
Sidney
These rockers are adjustable, so you need to tighten them to a certain point. Generally, you spin the pushrod while you tighten the rocker (rotate the engine until the lifter is all the way down in it's bore, meaning that valve is closed), and when the pushrod shows resistance to turning, you go 1/4 turn further, and then stop. Then use an allen wrench to tighten down the set screw in the middle while holding the adjustment nut in place.
After adjusting all of them like this, prime the engine by removing the fuel pump relay and cranking the motor over until oil squirts onto the rockers. After everything is ready, put the relay back in and start the car. Let it warm up to operating temperature and listen for any excessive noise. You can them turn the car off and use feeler gages between the tip of the valve and rocker arm to see if any are too tight or loose. Because you are going to have self-aligning rockers (no guide plates), you will need some narrow feeler gages.
11 speaker JL Audio stereo setup for sale:
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/audio/52021/
A similar method is detailed in your other thread: 1992 2.2L OHV Rocker Arm Conversion. The one listed there (By me!) is how I've learned to adjust them when my dad's van with it's "Big" aftermarket cam & a friend's all-stock 267ci V-8 needed it done, and it worked well.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
