I have just started with a sunfire and was wondering what should i upgrade first for a power adder. i already have an intake and exhaust. but was wondering which step to take next.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

We need more info... Your profile has no info about your car (fill that out please)

What year, model, engine do you have?

Well its a 1995 2.2L manual transmission.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

I would port the head.
From what I have heard here is that the bottleneck in the old 2.2 is the head.




2003 Sunfire with 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler, 2 1/4 piping, 2 1/2 inch resonator, a 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter, 2 1/4 inch down-pipe, a ported LSJ manifold, E-bay strut brace, and an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition.

i hope you don't take this the wrong way but that engine isn't the best to be modifying. In my opinion you will be spending ALOT of money and seeing minimal gains. If i were you i'd be looking into some sort of engine swap if I really wanted to keep the car and modify it.

The really big problem with that year is the Engine Management System. It's an odd piece that combines the OBD-I computer with the OBD-II Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL). It uses Programable Read-Only Microchips instead of flash-programming for memory, which means instead of just downloading a new tuning program into it you gotta send the chip (After it's been carefully removed to prevent even static damage) off to someone who has the equipment to program it & wait to get it back in order to get the most from any mods you make (The more serious the mod, the more seriously this will need to be done). Not to mention how even if you get a SES (Service Engine Soon) light, you're kinda on your own as to find-out what's wrong since the OBD-II ALDL connector found with many DIY scanners is useless with it, and even I don't know how to pull codes from the OBD-1.5 (Which is what you have). Still, it's a good engine to get your feet wet (And bang your knuckles on) is you wanna learn about Internal Combustion. Not to mention durable & a real mileage-maker.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Nickelin Dimer wrote:The really big problem with that year is the Engine Management System. It's an odd piece that combines the OBD-I computer with the OBD-II Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL). It uses Programable Read-Only Microchips instead of flash-programming for memory, which means instead of just downloading a new tuning program into it you gotta send the chip (After it's been carefully removed to prevent even static damage) off to someone who has the equipment to program it & wait to get it back in order to get the most from any mods you make (The more serious the mod, the more seriously this will need to be done). Not to mention how even if you get a SES (Service Engine Soon) light, you're kinda on your own as to find-out what's wrong since the OBD-II ALDL connector found with many DIY scanners is useless with it, and even I don't know how to pull codes from the OBD-1.5 (Which is what you have). Still, it's a good engine to get your feet wet (And bang your knuckles on) is you wanna learn about Internal Combustion. Not to mention durable & a real mileage-maker.

very well put.

Well i was wondering what i should just start off with. like should i add an exhaust?change the TB?Or what should i add?

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

brad armstrong wrote:Well i was wondering what i should just start off with. like should i add an exhaust?change the TB?Or what should i add?

thought you already had an exhaust



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

Does that matter and i meant a better exhaust.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

LOTS O' BOOST!!!! YUMMY



"still want to smash that like the fist of an angry god"

Well what if i wanna make sure my car can handle boost first.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

im pretty sure the 2200 is capible of handling low boost with almost no other modifications, except for exhaust (obviously). good ol' iron head.



"still want to smash that like the fist of an angry god"

except the head is aluminum.



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oh, lol i always thought it was iron. but then again im still a newbie at the 2200 engine.



"still want to smash that like the fist of an angry god"

I thought there was a difference between the 2.2L from a 95 and a 2200 from a 97 i think it is.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

there is



Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!

How they're different is the big deal, because aside from that they're the same.

Everything from the head's mating surface up (Manifolds, port shapes, rocker design & fuel delivery system design) got changed.

New pistons w/a more shallow dish.

A camshaft with pressed-on lobes & a new profile.

Crankshaft trigger-wheel re-clocked to improve mileage by causing the the injectors to fire sooner (When the intake valve opens as opposed to closing).

Revised cooling arrangement, using the same head gasket as found in the S-truck versions & enhancing cooling throughout the engine.

In '99, a new timing-chain cover that incorporates a mount for the accessory drive-belt tensioner. And a new lighter, lower manufacte-cost starter in 2000 that draws less amperage yet delivers the same cold-cranking power as previous models, resulting in less battery drain.

Amazingly, with all these changes, the block remained the same. I guess that's why it retained the RPO-code LN2. Except for the flex-fuel versions introduced after December of '99, which got RPO-coded L43. But unless you have a '04-up J-car with a number 5(6?) in the 8th VIN charater place, I wouldn't worry about that last part.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Well what should i do then i was wondering which mods i should start out with. I want to turbo it but i want to make sure that the engine can handle it first so any suggestions would be nice.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

do a compression test. then, buy a new head, and port, polish, 1.6 rocker, 3-angle and +1mm valve it. then, start buying turbo parts. but not just any turbo parts, do your research (actually USE THE SEARCH BUTTON, dont just keep asking "what should i do?") and buy the proper turbo thats going to spool at the right rpm, and flow enough cfm to get you to your desired power level. which is what by the way? then, a set of eagle rods, new cam, pushrods, and lifters. THEN, you're going to find someone to tune your car. being its a 95, you have teh option of having someone burn you a chip, or picking up some chips and a burner and learning how to do it yourself. once you've got all that together, you'll be ready to START thinking about a turbo project.



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Thanks for the start. thats all i really needed and i have been doing a lot of reading but just didnt know which parts to start out with.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

I was wondering what the compression should be around?

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road