I have an 1995 pontiac sunfire and my pedal response is slow i have a short intake with 4-1 headers and every time i hit the pedal for fast acceleration it makes a low sucking sound kinding like bogging except sucking in air at the same time.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

After the short bog it picks up.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

Uhhhhhh.... kind of like when the transmission waits to respond to the increased load and downshifts?


2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero

Yeh except i have a manual transmission and it makes a deep sucking sound for like a second. could it be from i was just sitting at an idle then punching it to the floor.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

.........is this a joke?

LMAO when you go WOT you don't downshift?


2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero

I had this on my 98, I think it was attributed to a bad TPS sensor.





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Im not down shifting at WOT. its when im sitting at a light revving it. why is this a joke im just making sure there's nothing wrong with my engine and im not no mechanic im trying to learn new things.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

brad armstrong wrote:Im not down shifting at WOT. its when im sitting at a light revving it. why is this a joke im just making sure there's nothing wrong with my engine and im not no mechanic im trying to learn new things.

why are you revving at lights?




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Sounds like what happens when I unplug the TPS sensor.

Well i didnt think why was apart of the reason. But if you had to know one of my buddies was beside me revving his engine too. well thanks DigitalN , so ami going to have to replace the TPS. is it a seperate part to the throttle body?

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

I looked for TPS but they look different from the one i have.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

Does anyone know where to buy a TPS? for 1995 2.2L?

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

Okay, first off: You have the older-model 2.2L OHV I-4 (We just call it by it's RPO-code here: The LN2). And nothing from the newer version ('98-up) from the cylinder-head mating-surface up matches it. Were di you get the new TPS from? Did you specifically tell them it's for the '95 OHV 2.2L? If not, you probably got the one meant for the Eco-tec 2.2L because the guy at the store only heard "Sunfire, 2.2L".

Wait... You said you're new to automotive-stuff, right? Well, just-in-case you don't know, the TPS is mounted on the side of the throttle-body, intersecting with the throttle-valve shaft. You'll need a 6-point Allen-hex driver to remove it. But first, take it to a licensed mechanic with a Scantron automotive computer diagnostic machine to check to see if that's really it. And start taking courses in auto-service at your local learning annex. These will be of great help to you in the long run.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

you guys are all idiots..

brad armstrong wrote:Im not down shifting at WOT. its when im sitting at a light revving it. why is this a joke im just making sure there's nothing wrong with my engine and im not no mechanic im trying to learn new things.

this happens because the engine is defeating the inherit resistance in the intake tract. Its normal, every car does it (unless its very high end, has a specific intake manifold thats been tested to death, or has Individual Throttle Bodies.)

nothing is wrong with your engine, this is normal operation.

all of you go start your cars and when its at operating temp, and idling at a stable RPM, shock the engine with 100% throttle and let go instantly. I bet the engine will make a sucking sound, then rev up then fall back to idle. It happens quickly, but there's a noticeable delay from the throttle input to the engine's response.

THIS IS NORMAL.

example of above phenomenon:

0:13 - 0:20 of this video

its on a turbo car, but the principal is the same. This video has NO delay in the audio either. The rest of the video is irrelevant, please refer to 13 seconds to 20 seconds of the video.

Classic throttle-response hang-up, eh? Okay... I can dig that. After all, I have the same engine in two different vehicles. And I must admit, the response isn't perfect under load. Nice call, Skwirl. I would have said the same (More or less) if I thought for a moment he didn't mean more than usual. But I unfortunately got caught-up in the popular theory that was perpeptuated in this thread. My bad.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Thanks guys thats what i thought i just wanted to make sure it was that.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

I am not 100% sure this is the same phenomenon, but I had a 1997 Firebird with a 3800 series II motor and at highway speeds it would lag some time before it would show any response to my WOT. It annoyed me badly and I asked around about why it did this.

The answer I got was that the 3800 series II motor is detuned on both the intake and exhaust side to a high extent.
The intake has this dumb sensor net in front to the TB. The exhaust is too small for the 3.8 liter V-6 and it too hampers the response.

Of all the things, the 97 Firebird was the one year they did not offer much by way of intake upgrades. I wanted an upgraded high flow sensor net and they offered it for other years and not my 97. They also never offered the ram air system for the 97 which blew.

The car could not breath well, nor get rid of the exhaust well at all. The pause in excelleration was most likely from the two bottlenecks.

You have an intake, but did you upgrade the exhaust?
I hear the 2.2 OHV heads do not breath very well and even with an intake, the head is a bottleneck.

Unfortunately for me some anus at the Lube n Tune put WAAAAY too much tranny fluid in and it ruined my transmission. I went in and complained and they said I must have added more fluid when I left. I hate people who pull this crap. The dip-stick for the tranny was like 2 inches = it is full. The damn thing was pink from front to end and I had the engine off, it was warmed up and I wiped the stick off first as the first reading is always inaccurate. Literally, this dip stick was a few feet long and it was front to end covered in tranny fluid. The guy must have added two extra quarts in. I hope the same happens to him. The reason I mention this is because it was the only reason I sold it. I would be driving it today if it weren't for the A-hole that sabotaged my tranny. I wanted to swap in the 5.7 liter engine if the car's engine died, but the tranny dying on me right then was very very bad timing.


2003 Sunfire with 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler, 2 1/4 piping, 2 1/2 inch resonator, a 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter, 2 1/4 inch down-pipe, a ported LSJ manifold, E-bay strut brace, and an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition.

Yeah it is as they have dubbed a phenomenom. It's just the motors restrictive air flow that causes it to have such crappy response. My Ln2 had the same problem until it hit medium (2k-5k) Rpm range. Luckily it jumped time and died on me so I got all my head work done to open her up and finished up the intake side and exhaust with some bolt-ons. responds great now.. soon to respond even better as soon as I rebuild the bottom end (threw a rod bearing, put back together lost a main!) and throw on my new spec clutch and fidanza flywheel!

^Sounds like my '94 when I first got hold of it: Bad rod bearing, timing chain was replaced (By an idiot wrench that failed to fish the fragmented remains of it outta the pan, so guess where it got fed) and a horrendous lifter tick (Remember those metal frags I mentioned? That's what caused it!). You're gonna hafta blow-out the oil gallies to clear them of all the frags left in the system, or else the next thing you'll find yourself replacing is the lifters from contamination (If they're there, it'll happen). And maybe even the short-block from them scoring-up their bores from it (Like I wound-up doing at 165,000mi).


Go beyond the "bolt-on".