Does anyone know where to find a forged crankshaft for the 2.2 noneco engine? Are the crankshafts for the 2.2 eco and 2.2 noneco the same size? Or is it possible to mill the 2.2 eco crank down to 2.2 non eco specs.

Uh, I seriously doubt you could mill-down an Eco crank to fit the LN2, seeing how the LN2 uses a cast-on-crank trigger-wheel for the crank-position sensor that's located inside the crankcase & the Eco don't. As for a forged crank, good-luck there. The LN2 is sadly the unloved step-child of the J-car engine family, with little to no support for it compared to any of the DOHC-engines offered. Crower made cranks for it at one time (put one in my '94!) but I don't think they do anymore, even as stock replacements. Anyone else here have anything to offer?


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Well, no offense, but I doubt you need the crank becuase you're making so much power that you will break the factory one, so I assume you want to lighten/balance the bottom end. I've never heard of anyone breaking a LN2 crank - it's probably one of the strongest parts of the bottom end of that engine. Best alternative - have the factory crank worked over by a reputable machinist.

yeah, no one makes a forged crank, but the stack crank is a power house, never heard of one breaking due to extreme performance.

maybe he wants one for the fact of it being lightweight?

just a thought...



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then he would have to get it custom made.....I agree with what was previously posted.....take it to a compitant crank machinig place and have it lightened,.

And have the bob-weights knife-edged.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Well i was taught on old school v8's if your going to build an engine you put forged in it. Seeing that im going to be boosting this engine i don't want to take any chances on the crank deciding to give me problems. Plus Due to it being forged it cuts down on weight. So there is no one that has broke one of these cranks and theres absolutely no one that can make a forged crank that anyone knows of.

anybody that makes a crankshaft can make one for your engine... for the right price tag. BUT, no one has yet broken the stock ohv crank. there's no worries about boost if you're tuned properly.



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yeah, you will snap a rod (even a forged one) before the crank gives out.

I would have loved to have put a forged crank in mine, and would have if they were available.

But since it would cost WAY to much to have ONE crank made.....or even several.....I will stick with the good ol stocker.

i have broke eagle rods inhalf and never even tweeked any of my cranks, and my cranks are stock with about 7lbs of weight cut off of them. you will be fine with what ya got

Quote:

Well i was taught on old school v8's if your going to build an engine you put forged in it.

Depending on who taught you, that's reeealy old school. Late 60's into early '70s is when that type of appoach was the way to go. You could get tufftrided or nitrided cranks right from GM back in those days. Metal quality is better now, machining is better now, engine management is better now, general knowledge about how to set up an engine to run is better now. Forged isn't such a big deal. LT1 guys are making 500+ hp out of 5.7 liter LT1 engines with no fears about the crank. LS1 guys make more power than that on stock cranks. Sure, forged is stronger, but there's no need to worry about the stock crank at the modest power levels most street engines produce.

Alright thanks for the help guys. Now my goal is to build a 2.2 so powerful it breaks the crank.

I suggest you check-out the thread titled: "The new 2.2L combo didn't work pics inside".
Everything went to hell in that engine except the crank it seems. If that's not a testiment to how strong the LN2 crank is, I don't know what is.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Yes i have already seen that and that motor didnt break because of too much power it broke because it wasn't built right. But from what i have read and been told i guess the cranks are pretty strong but my goal still is to build an engine so powerful that it does break the crank. Then there will be a demand for forged cranks for this engine and also in turn people wont look down upon this engine and its possible power making capabilities. Thanks again everyone.

stock cranks just hold to much power you will blow the block apart before the crank. the motor blew because of compression, which is inturn power, i dont appreciate you saying it was built 'wrong' it was however built cheap and with less than $500 in it also it was only an experiment to see hwat we could get for power

Yeah, Bever. Plus, I think the idea of building a LN2 that breaks the crank just to try to get aftermarket manufacturers to make a forged crank makes about as much sense as building a OHV conversion for a flathead-4: It'd be so niche, there'd be too few interested parties to justify the cost of production (Even limited production) alone.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

I am sorry Bob but you yourself just said it blew because of compression obviously you had to much compression for the engine to handle which in turn means it was built improperly due to lack of research and or not up to par parts. I did not mean to offend you but it still wasn't built to the degree of what i am talking about on here. I will give you props though for trying something different. Me breaking the crank would not be to just get forged cranks it would be to show that you can get more power out of these engines then what is reached now and that sooner or later that crank is going to be the only weak part or one of the weakest parts of the engine due to it not being forged Thanks again to everyone.

just an idea on how tough stock cranks are, i have a ford focus so i am on those forums too there is a guy in NC putting out 730WHP from 40 lbs of boost plus nitrous on a stock focus crank

you will blow the side of the block out before you even scratch the crank.