TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:Random suggestion.....
Dont the 3500 swap guys use the same trigger wheel? Or maybe Im wrong.
Just trying to pull in more folks.
IamQwibby (Eco Meatcake) wrote:TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:Random suggestion.....
Dont the 3500 swap guys use the same trigger wheel? Or maybe Im wrong.
Just trying to pull in more folks.
Yes buy they have a $140 kit that includes wheel and a timing bracket as well. Oldskool butchered this kit initially. I replicated it with y machinist to make it more affordable for us.
SLO CAV (autocrossing dude) wrote:Wow you all can't even afford 75 bucks. Geez someone takes the time to do something for our community and we get the typical broke ass responses.
Phil if we can't get the gp going can you see how much just a hand full would be. I am very interested in this and a le5 bottom end. Sorry to go off but this crap gets old. Carry on.
gmanz24 (The Bash Whore) wrote:SLO CAV (autocrossing dude) wrote:Wow you all can't even afford 75 bucks. Geez someone takes the time to do something for our community and we get the typical broke ass responses.
Phil if we can't get the gp going can you see how much just a hand full would be. I am very interested in this and a le5 bottom end. Sorry to go off but this crap gets old. Carry on.
I must have missed where this whole swap cost $75? I can easily afford $75, what i cannot afford is the rest of the necessary parts i.e. block, headwork, turbo setup, since I already have a built 2.2 eco in my 2nd car, and that will get the attention first before I shell out the $75 for a trigger wheel that i will not be able to make use of till i have previously said things. carry on calling out people, sorry i was realistic when i wouldnt put my name on the list...
IamQwibby (Eco Meatcake) wrote:x2 - the 60* V6 guys have the ultimate product available - a key'ed wheel and mounting bracket that puts everything consistently where it should be - every time. They even had hashes on the mounting bracket to globally advance or retard +/- 5*. If there was a product like that available for us i'd gladly pay 150 for it. The wheels offered in this GP are as cheap as it gets, and it has to be that way here to reach the largest audience.TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:Random suggestion.....
Dont the 3500 swap guys use the same trigger wheel? Or maybe Im wrong.
Just trying to pull in more folks.
Yes buy they have a $140 kit that includes wheel and a timing bracket as well. Oldskool butchered this kit initially. I replicated it with y machinist to make it more affordable for us.
oldskool (eco meatcake) wrote:IamQwibby (Eco Meatcake) wrote:x2 - the 60* V6 guys have the ultimate product available - a key'ed wheel and mounting bracket that puts everything consistently where it should be - every time. They even had hashes on the mounting bracket to globally advance or retard +/- 5*. If there was a product like that available for us i'd gladly pay 150 for it. The wheels offered in this GP are as cheap as it gets, and it has to be that way here to reach the largest audience.TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:Random suggestion.....
Dont the 3500 swap guys use the same trigger wheel? Or maybe Im wrong.
Just trying to pull in more folks.
Yes buy they have a $140 kit that includes wheel and a timing bracket as well. Oldskool butchered this kit initially. I replicated it with y machinist to make it more affordable for us.
Honestly, talking with Phil recently, the order of most ideal (and expensive) to least ideal (and cheapest) is as follows:
1. A wheel cast (or welded, ect.) and timed to an aftermarket ligthweight crank pulley with a mounting system that puts the CKP sensor in the exact same place at all times. There is ZERO chance of anything moving or any install error mistiming it. The only way i could see doing this is to have a spare block at the machinist's disposal to use as a reference to time it. The labor/hours alone in this would be prohibitive for a market like ours.
2. A keyed trigger wheel that fits the keyway on a stock or aftermarket crank pulley and hardware to put the CKP sensor in the same place at all times. Again, pretty foolproof, but significantly less expensive than 1.
3. The product we have here. It's BY FAR the most cost effective option (wish it was available before my swap ), BUT you have to be as consistent as possible whenever you remove the wheel. Honestly, If you buiid the engine once and never have to remove the crank pulley it's not an issue, but if you get it together, get it tuned and for some reason have to take it (the wheel) off - think about how much a degree or two is out of 360*. For reference, one hour on a standard analog clock is 30*. W/o a key'ed wheel, i'd say there's easily +/-3* of error installing it - hell my first install was off by at least 5* if not more. I've got it down to a science now (between doing phil's once and mine three times), but there is some error in the human eye lol.
Anyways, all that to say that the wheel as we have it is awesome - simple cheap and effective. Just be aware that advance/retard in the installation translates to global advance/retard in spark timing, so if you feel you will need to time it more than once for whatever reason, come up with a way to keep it consistent. As mentioned previously, Phil and I are available to help via PM, email, phone ect. Hell, if you're local I'll come time it for you for a beer