ok i am picking up the back plates,calipers and bracket tomorrow but what else do i need to finnish this swap...i know about the ebrake cables and such but.....what elas
SO_hardcore i know you got this done can ya help just getting the parts?
Furious 2.2 wrote:http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=92768&t=92768
straight out the suspension and brake forums
i know this already...i need to talk to some one that already did it
yea i did it. your more then likely going to need new brake lines. my friend can machine the brackets for you.
hm i think i have one spare backing plate in my basement dont know which side. and i have 1 brand new caliper in my basement too but dont know what side its for.. and when you get all your parts together bring them by my new garage i'll hook u up with powder coating them.
you dont need to re-bend any brake lines, but you do need new hoses.
you need the E-brake set up, to modify the arm (I used my stock cables on a modified e-brake arm)
you do need to modify the stock axle slightly, so make sure you have access to a sawzall, or grinder. Other than that, pretty straight forward, and on brake swap difficulty is about a 2.
I had problems with mine dragging after install. Found it was the redidual pressure valves hold 10# of pressure for the drum brakes, and discs are supposed to have about 2#. You can get wilwood residual pressure valves from summit, and get different fittings for your lines to go into them (therefore needing a line cutter and double flare tool).
John Benham wrote:you dont need to re-bend any brake lines, but you do need new hoses.
you need the E-brake set up, to modify the arm (I used my stock cables on a modified e-brake arm)
you do need to modify the stock axle slightly, so make sure you have access to a sawzall, or grinder. Other than that, pretty straight forward, and on brake swap difficulty is about a 2.
I had problems with mine dragging after install. Found it was the redidual pressure valves hold 10# of pressure for the drum brakes, and discs are supposed to have about 2#. You can get wilwood residual pressure valves from summit, and get different fittings for your lines to go into them (therefore needing a line cutter and double flare tool).
the only thing i didn't say was this isn't on a 3rd gen its on a 89z
John Benham wrote:you dont need to re-bend any brake lines, but you do need new hoses.
you need the E-brake set up, to modify the arm (I used my stock cables on a modified e-brake arm)
you do need to modify the stock axle slightly, so make sure you have access to a sawzall, or grinder. Other than that, pretty straight forward, and on brake swap difficulty is about a 2.
I had problems with mine dragging after install. Found it was the redidual pressure valves hold 10# of pressure for the drum brakes, and discs are supposed to have about 2#. You can get wilwood residual pressure valves from summit, and get different fittings for your lines to go into them (therefore needing a line cutter and double flare tool).
so i guess that means when i buy all the parts your helping me do the install huh
SO_hardcore wrote:yea i did it. your more then likely going to need new brake lines. my friend can machine the brackets for you.
hm i think i have one spare backing plate in my basement dont know which side. and i have 1 brand new caliper in my basement too but dont know what side its for.. and when you get all your parts together bring them by my new garage i'll hook u up with powder coating them.
i have all the parts sooo how much to get my brakets done
LarryMartin830 wrote:the only thing i didn't say was this isn't on a 3rd gen its on a 89z
always gotta throw a wrench in the gears dontcha.....
BTW, what has to be done to the brackets for the ancient 89z?
acidburn wrote:
so i guess that means when i buy all the parts your helping me do the install huh 
sure, its a couple hours of work, not to bad though.
I gots the stuff in my garage to make it look like that.
And rust or no.....its still ancient
i can make them look baller!!! my friend can do the brackets probley for like 60 bucks but hes going to need a rear wheel bearing unless my 98 cavy one is the same.
lol, no silly, I meant I have toolage to machine them......depending on how tight your tolerances have to be that is. My setup is not all that precise.
John Benham wrote:lol, no silly, I meant I have toolage to machine them......depending on how tight your tolerances have to be that is. My setup is not all that precise.
another question could you machine a face of spindle down?
...again, I would need more details.
but depending on what you need done, I could. I have very limited machining equipment, but what I do have is available for use.
John Benham wrote:...again, I would need more details.
but depending on what you need done, I could. I have very limited machining equipment, but what I do have is available for use.
ok i will gather some info for you...
its an h body bracket that needs to be machined .300"-
then would need the h body rotor drilled to fit a 5x100 bolt pattern
shoot me some pictures to my email. Ill let you know if its something my setup can handle, or not.