wrath becouse if the 2.0 will bolt in then this is a possable swap to me (im just not fond of the idea if welding my oun motor mounts)

well strut tower brace can be removed/remade, once the engine is in im thinking put a Upipe down and run cold air on it that or just do a remote mount and run the piping straight back(im thinking of doing this without the turbo for now if i can find the engine cheap). anyways once the engine is in cut the mounting rings off of the strut tower brace, take 2 pieces of piping(not sure how much integrity would be lost by doing this so im saying 2) and run them like:
.o.
(..)
.o. around the piping that or cut out some of the metal under the sunbird hood and just raise the bar a little bit

wicked

oh and what about using the stock mpfi ecm?

wicked

slowolej: Yes you are correct in that the 2.2L blocks are 10mm taller than the 2.0L. This is only to accomodate the longer stroke which is made up by the throw of the crankshaft, and not the rods. The 2.0 and 2.2 rods are the same, but the cranks are different slightly. The main journals and rod journals are the same, but the stroke is different. That's why I am having such a hard time finding forged internals. I can get the rods, but they only offer custom forged cranks for the 2.0 and not the 2.2.

wicked dudeman: The strut tower brace will not be removed. I have spent many dollars and countless hours finding and installing suspension parts on my car to get it to handle the way it does now. This is a NO COMPROMISE approach! It will require much test fitting and adjusting, and if I need to build my own intake then so be it.



Trying to become the most modded out N/A 2nd gen sunbird 4 cylinder on the org with a..... screw that, I'm going turbo!!!

2.Slow OHC I4
Ported cylinder head, intake and exhaust
Relocated IAT with a custom WAI with a 6x9 K&N conical filter
All this, and I still can't go fast.............yet!!

Quote:

The main journals and rod journals are the same, but the stroke is different. That's why I am having such a hard time finding forged internals.

I see.
I guess a custom timing ring will be necessary if you choose to use the GM DIS system.

Thanks for the info.
-->Slow

Were do you get forged rods and cranks for 2.0's? Migweb?

Mr.Efficiency (Tyrin) wrote:Were do you get forged rods and cranks for 2.0's? Migweb?

Yeah, they make forged crankshafts for the UK C20LET/LE/NE/XE engines, but they use 8 flywheel bolts instead of 6, which means that you would also need to get the flywheel/flexplate to go with it. Plus they cost a pretty penny, and with all the money I'd spend on shipping the thing I could just have one made for the same price. It sucks though cause they only make it for the 2.0L. As far as the rods go, Crower makes forged rods for the 2.0 so that's not a big deal, really.



Trying to become the most modded out N/A 2nd gen sunbird 4 cylinder on the org with a..... screw that, I'm going turbo!!!

2.Slow OHC I4
Ported cylinder head, intake and exhaust
Relocated IAT with a custom WAI with a 6x9 K&N conical filter
All this, and I still can't go fast.............yet!!

Paul Moore wrote:Pontiacjeff sells Sunbird chips. I believe he's got the timing information to switch to DIS. I've got an EPROM eraser / burner that I carry with me. When it's time to tune, you might seriously want to consider using an eprom emulator and learning to do at least some of your own tuning. Combined with tuning software and ALDL monitor software, you'll be able to make changes to the calibration on the fly. And with that DOHC boosted engine you can bet that you'll need something that can handle changes "on the fly."

How would I be able to contact Pontiacjeff?! Would he be able to burn either a computer of a chip that would allow running a Daewoo 4-speed automatic overdrive tranny?! Merely curious.

If the Daewoo transmission is electronically controlled then the turbo 'bird ecm will not be able to control it. There are some pcm's which might, but the amount of work would be incredible.

google pontiacjeff. He's all over the place.

-->Slow

One of the reasons that the 2.0 blocks do so well is because they are "square." These turbo motors have much stronger pistons and rods.. plus there is the controversy over the crankshafts being forged. Either way, some stock 2.0 turbo bottom ends have handled a lot of power. The 2.2 block/ crank has a larger stroke and was never meant to handle a lot of power. You are both losing reving capabilities and crankshaft integrity. Throw it on a 2.0 turbo bottom end! Get some real balancing work done to it and some forged rods.. you should be able to handle your 400+hp goal all day.



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