apparently my drums got so bad that the bleeders on them rounded off, well today i snapped the bleeder just trying to open it so i can bleed my brakes...well ya it sucked, so now i have to spend 120 bucks on 2 new drums...
i bled the front two brakes since thats the only thing i could bleed and i wanted to see if it did anything, and my car started to shake violently and pretty much stopped moving, this happened after i pumped the brakes a couple of times, you guys think maybe the drums locked up and the whole brake system locked up..it reminds me a bit of when you hold your brake and gas pedal at the same time
also since i'm making a post, has anyone bought the rksport rear disc converison kit? is it really good, or should i go and get that neon swap instead?
wheels cylinders are cheap bro... seriously, unless the drums themselves are out of round, no need to replace them. cylinders on the other hand, can be had for like $15 each, hardware kit $7, shoes $25... brakes on our cars are like the cheapest thing you can get...
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Why the hell would you need new drums if your bleeder screw broke?
Why did you bleed your brakes anyway? Was your pedal feeling soft?
I don't know really how to help you, but it sounds like you don't know a whole lot about brakes and it would be a better idea for you to have someone who does know brakes do it for you.
1983 Camaro Z28
ling427ttvette wrote:Why the hell would you need new drums if your bleeder screw broke?
Why did you bleed your brakes anyway? Was your pedal feeling soft?
I don't know really how to help you, but it sounds like you don't know a whole lot about brakes and it would be a better idea for you to have someone who does know brakes do it for you.
ahh well i changed my calipers...so i needed to bleed the brakes,
and i know a decent amount of brakes, its not like im 16 and i just got a car and im acting like i know everything, because i dont, i went and talked to autozone and i need a backing plate for the drums, which is a dealership item only...
i called a bunch of junkyards and none had it because they usually scrap it with the car...
also i have mad rubbing on the front right...the rotors getting all messed up, and it seems that the caliper pin is hitting it, also the assembly with the ears that holds the caliper and brakes is messed up as well...im just not having a very good time on this car...
How can the knuckle be messed up? Did you get in a crash or something?
Wild Weasel wrote:How can the knuckle be messed up? Did you get in a crash or something?
no, all i can think of is when my brake line blew out on me...
its not that bad, its on the inside like the rotor was eating away at it or something..
i dont even know...im not letting anyone work on my car anymore though
how much do you think a new knuckle will cost?
heres an update...i do not need the backing plate, just the bleeder screw itself
i called advanced and they had it in stock...
so ya but with the knuckle...is that a difficult replacement, it seems to be holding onto the driveshaft and axles
Not to sound like a dick here, but I'll second ling427ttvette's statement about you not knowing a whole lot about brakes, or suspensions in general.
1- If your rotor is rubbing against something, you should be able to see it clearly. The only thing it can really rub is the caliper. If its actually rubbing the caliper, and your knuckle is damaged, you need to not be driving the car. Period. A knuckle with that much damage is not safe at all. I would venture to guess the bearing is also damaged, and the only thing holding it all together is the pads, and maybe the axle nut.
2- not knowing what you need to replace in the rear is not good. If you snapped off a bleeder screw, why would you need a backing plate? The backing plate has nothing to do with the bleeder, it doesn't even touch it. And if you somehow applied so much torque to one screw trying to get it out, and managed to tweak the backing plate, you need to call one of those phone in miracle shows, because thats never happened before. Also- if you snapped off a bleeder in the wheel cylinder, why would you bother to replace just the bleeder? Its too time consuming using an EZ-out, when it would be easier to just replace the wheel cylinder.
3- the knuckle is an easy replacement, since you already have everything apart to replace the rotor and caliper. All you need to do now is remove the bearing and take out two bolts. But I don't think you should go that far, since you're not even sure whats attached where and how.
Again, not trying to come off as a jerk, but brakes are a big safety item on a car, and I really think you should learn a bit more before attempting this type of thing.
Yep let someone who probably won't install the rotor in the back seat and the caliper inside the gas tank do the job!!!! Haha! Good luck.
well just to let you guess know...
i fixed all the problems so i dont need anymore help...
and after talking to abunch of people at autostores and what, they were no use apparently, my neighbor (who works at the ford plant) told me what everypart is and he helped me with the rotor issue...
it was part of the caliper pin rubbing against the rotor itself, so to fix this problem we just shaved a little bit of that pin down to be flush with the knuckle.
the drums actually didnt take any time...the EZ out worked right away and both bleeder screws were easy
You shouldn't have to shave anything down on the front, that's the half assed way of doing it. Something is wrong if that was touching, because it's not supposed to do that. So, instead of finding the problem you found the easiest way out. Anyone can do that.
I feel for your car. I deal with crap like that every day at work, someone who thinks they know what they are doing when they have no idea. But they for sure know that the mechanics that work in shops are idiots and not trust worthy. Whatever man.
1983 Camaro Z28
no grinding or shaving or clearancing should ever need to be done to install brakes, unless you're having your rotors/drums turned. something else is wrong there. we're not telling you this to be @!#$s. we're telling you this because its not safe.
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Perhaps he had replacement sliders that weren't meant for a j-body?
Wild Weasel wrote:Perhaps he had replacement sliders that weren't meant for a j-body?
Which is why comparing the old and new parts is a must.
1983 Camaro Z28
i have to admit i wasnt thinking or knew exactly what to do...
so this is why im going to school for my ASE certification so i dont run into problems like this ever again...
im sorry if i upset any of you, but i learned from my mistakes and i appreciate everything from you guys
