OK well I figured out how to lower them. Can any one explain how these work as far as adjusting. Is the nut on the spring for dampening and the nut on the bottom for lowering. What I did was take both nuts and make them a jam nut and twist the whole body of the strut. Is this correct?? Is there any easier way to do this cause it was a pain. I dont know if it was becasue the sleeves are dirty or what. What is the maximum I can lower the shock, all the way till it hits the spring??
Mark
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
All coil-overs adjust the same way- moving the lower perch up or down.
The "nut" touching the bottom of the spring is the lower perch. That determines your ride height, it has nothing to do with dampening anything. I've never personally used or seen the Gravana setup before, but it looks like theres two jamb nuts there below the perch. I don't know why, since you only need one. You did it right by jambing it up against the lower perch. The sleeve shouldnt rotate on the strut body, there should be some sort of set screw or something to lock it in. If the sleeves are dirty, you should definetely clean them.
FAST2.4 P wrote:What is the maximum I can lower the shock, all the way till it hits the spring??
I'm not sure what you mean here. You're not raising or lowering any strut or shock, you're raising and lowering the lower perch- up is higher ride height, down is lower ride height. The shock or strut will never come in contact with the spring, so..... I'm still not sure what you're asking.
Well, the nut on top of each strut allows you to adjust the dampening. The first perch that the spring sits on it to adjust the compression of the spring as well as ride height. This can aid in giving a softer or firmer ride. The last 2 perches allow you to adjust the length the shock will travel. The further it can travel to my understanding the softer the ride. I took your picture to show you how I had mine:
null
The way you have it now, the actual body of the coilover can turn and you don't want this. By bringing the 2 perches down to sit ontop of the lower body of the coilover it will stop this. Obviously when you want to adjust the length the strut will travel, you need to loosen the 2 perches and actually turn by hand the bottom of the coilover to lengthen or shorten it. Hopefully more people will chime in as I'm not a suspension guru. Realize these will take some time to get to your desired ride height and comfort. These definately are not a sytem that you can just throw on and go.
Boosted 2200, Summer 200X?
James Cahill wrote:All coil-overs adjust the same way- moving the lower perch up or down.
The "nut" touching the bottom of the spring is the lower perch. That determines your ride height, it has nothing to do with dampening anything. I've never personally used or seen the Gravana setup before, but it looks like theres two jamb nuts there below the perch. I don't know why, since you only need one. You did it right by jambing it up against the lower perch. The sleeve shouldnt rotate on the strut body, there should be some sort of set screw or something to lock it in. If the sleeves are dirty, you should definetely clean them.
FAST2.4 P wrote:What is the maximum I can lower the shock, all the way till it hits the spring??
I'm not sure what you mean here. You're not raising or lowering any strut or shock, you're raising and lowering the lower perch- up is higher ride height, down is lower ride height. The shock or strut will never come in contact with the spring, so..... I'm still not sure what you're asking.
Pretty much dead on. However there are no set screws with Gravana's, hence why the bottom two perches need to be on top the lower portion of the coilover. This will stop the strut body from moving.
Boosted 2200, Summer 200X?
Well I adjusted the fronts last night. They adjust very easily, almost to easy. The backs are so stuck I bent the wrenches. What I did was take the two locking nuts and jam them together and use this to lower in the front. When i tried this in the back it would not turn at all. Are these know for getting stuck? So what I need to do then I guess is dismoun the bottom of the strut, put a scredriver in the bottom and see if I cant break the seal. I understand now what everything does and I know it will take some time to get set-up, I was just confused of how low I can actually go and why the backs were not going any lower.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Maybe you could try spraying some wd-40 or even brake cleaner on it and just let it sit for a few min.
Boosted 2200, Summer 200X?
Ok guys. I have spent hours figuring out these coil overs. I am very, very disappointed with the design. First off there is no way to take the lower part of the tube off if it gets rusted on like the ones on my car. So thats the first problem becasue then you cant lower or raise the car. The next problem is the lowering. Even if i could get the sleeves to turn freely, the maximum you can lower with these is 3.5", which kinda sucks. I was hoping for more like 6". I dont know where to go from here cause I have completely distroyed the locking rings and wrenches becasue the rust is so bad. Anyone have any ideas??
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
Anything lower than 3.5" wouldn't be streetable. Hell, even 3.5" is too low to drive. These aren't mean to a blingin' low-rider look. That's what bags are for.
Like I said, I really dont care about how much they lower the car, as long as they work. I am getting a new set of wrenches and pb blasting the @!#$ out of them. Lets see where that gets me.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
wow im reading through about half of this screaming NOOOO at my computer
the whole black thereaded body goes about an inch inth eht par that bolts to the knuckle. then ONE jamb nut goes down the the par that bolts to the knuckle. then the one big and one small jam nut go together making your spring perch
like this
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
Machzel08 (Teh Jew) wrote:wow im reading through about half of this screaming NOOOO at my computer
the whole black thereaded body goes about an inch inth eht par that bolts to the knuckle. then ONE jamb nut goes down the the par that bolts to the knuckle. then the one big and one small jam nut go together making your spring perch
like this
Wow, didn't even realize when I made my crappy ms paint picture I had missed that! I should have just taken a picture of my gravanas laying here. Either way that is the correct way Fast.
Boosted 2200, Summer 200X?
Yeah, I know how to set them. I had them exactly like that, but I am trying to lower the sleeve into the tube and its not going. I have been PB Blasting the sleeves for the past couple days, and should be getting my new TEIN wrenches to adjust them. The BG wrenches were @!#$, I bent them in half. I will keep you guys informed, thanks.
http://www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com/
