I put my new big brakes on and I have no pedal. I bleed eveyrthing. I replaced the master and I am pretty sure I reset it back to the factory setting. I just tried again and nothing. THere are no bubbles in any of the lines and the pedal goes all the way to the floor. I replaced the master with a w-body one it bolted right up and it was a little bigger. But it changed nothing. Any ideas? I want to drive my car again.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, November 25, 2008 3:13 PM
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did you bench bleed the master cylinder when you put it in?
I did. I put it on the bench reset the master and hten put it on the car. But it was going to floor with the other MC on as well, so it isn't the MC. Do I have to adjust the rod inside the car or anything?
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what about you abs modual (sp i know) we did the brakes on mine and got nothing but pedal to the floor...
it rained one day..drove it down my alley (loose rocks) hit the brakes and the tire broke loose and the abs kicked it and the car SLAMMED to a stop never had an issue after that...might just need the abs to reset
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Primer Counts as Custom Paint Right?
BTW: This is my Sig.
humm, I thought that I reset the ABS correctly. Is there a way to do it with out the TECH 1 scan tool? I would like to get this done today. I need to do alot of driving around tomorrow and would love to have this car working.
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FAST2.4 P wrote:humm, I thought that I reset the ABS correctly. Is there a way to do it with out the TECH 1 scan tool? I would like to get this done today. I need to do alot of driving around tomorrow and would love to have this car working.
we thought it would reset automatically too lol 8 hours later no luck. i know some sort of computer can be plugged in there...but for the life of me i can't remember @!#$ today. you could always put the car in some wet grass...i am sure the abs will kick on then
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Primer Counts as Custom Paint Right?
BTW: This is my Sig.
u may have to do a asb system bleed i know at work when we replacing a MC you have to do thats
Yes you need to do what is called an automated bleed procedure.
You need a scan tool with the ability to command the ABS Module to activate as if in an ABS stop. It is a functional test and varies between vehicle make and model. The last one I did was on a 04 Grand Prix but most are pretty close as far as GM goes.
I assume you manually bled the correct way correct? Keep in mind the brakes are diagonally split...So anytime you open the left front wheel the right rear needs to always be bled first followed by the left front. The opposite is true on the other side.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
just took the master cylinder off again. I bench bled it and got it to the point where there was not bubbles left in the system. I started the car and still nothing. I am going to bleed the ports on the master again and see what that does. Does anyone have a clue as to why I replace the front calipers and now I have no pedal? I mean this is getting upserd
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do you need a proportioning valve? is it possible that you do not have enough brake pressure from the stock booster to handle the bigger brakes? is your booster bad? Did you bleed front and rear? How many bleed valves are on your calipers? Did you bleed them with the car running to have all the right pressure there is supposed to be?
I ask all these questions. When I did my Wilwood FRONT Big Brake install I had to bleed there rears (still stock at the time) aswell to get my pedal back. I also has to rebleed the fronts when I did the Wilwood REAR install a few week later to get my pedal back.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, November 26, 2008 11:42 AM
I did not have the car on. I did the fronts, rears everything. And I did them in order pass rear, driver rear,etc.. I am going to try bleeding them on last time and see what that does. Where are the portioning valves on this unit?
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Their arent any valves stock. You might have to order one to get what you want. I know Wilwood sells them. Try bleeding with the car on and all vacuum pressure where it should be sometimes that helps. If that doesnt work also do a gravity bleed. Open the vavle at one caliper and let it drain for 5-10 minutes. Lather, rinse, repeat with all 4 corners. You might use a lot of brake fluid, but its worth a shot.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, November 26, 2008 12:22 PM
I did try gravity bleeding this mornign, nothign. I just bleed the whole system again, nothing. Any one have any ideas? These are the same calipers that the Bear kit uses, so not even a bigger MC is required.
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Im stuck then, the only think I can think of is there is air in a line. Are all the lines tight? Are you 100% sure you dont have a leak? I had a very very very very very very very very tiny leak when I did the rears that threw me for a loop for about an hour til I found it. Sometimes the position of a brake line can trap air where you wouldn't expect.
I mean the only place I am thinking it can be leaking from is the fronts, casue thats what I changed out. I put the neon brake lines up front. If those are known for leaking then yeah I guess they could be leaking from there.
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Why did u swap lines? Are the neon lines smaller? That might be a problem. Try going to SS braided lines.
I am using the smaller 12" lines from the neon. I sold my lumina kit and gave the guy the lines with the kit. They are SS but the fittings look hoky(sp). I am going to pick up some factory lines and try them out. If they work I will order a set of russells.
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EVOFire {DesertTuners} wrote:do you need a proportioning valve? is it possible that you do not have enough brake pressure from the stock booster to handle the bigger brakes? is your booster bad? Did you bleed front and rear? How many bleed valves are on your calipers? Did you bleed them with the car running to have all the right pressure there is supposed to be?
I ask all these questions. When I did my Wilwood FRONT Big Brake install I had to bleed there rears (still stock at the time) aswell to get my pedal back. I also has to rebleed the fronts when I did the Wilwood REAR install a few week later to get my pedal back.
A bad brake booster would not cause a no pedal issue. A bad brake booster would cause a hard pedal and a difficult to stop car.
You can bleed it all you want...keep going if you want, until you run the automated bleed procedure you will never get a good pedal and you'll just waste alot of brake fluid.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
fast 2.4p did u get my pm
Alex Richards wrote:EVOFire {DesertTuners} wrote:do you need a proportioning valve? is it possible that you do not have enough brake pressure from the stock booster to handle the bigger brakes? is your booster bad? Did you bleed front and rear? How many bleed valves are on your calipers? Did you bleed them with the car running to have all the right pressure there is supposed to be?
I ask all these questions. When I did my Wilwood FRONT Big Brake install I had to bleed there rears (still stock at the time) aswell to get my pedal back. I also has to rebleed the fronts when I did the Wilwood REAR install a few week later to get my pedal back.
A bad brake booster would not cause a no pedal issue. A bad brake booster would cause a hard pedal and a difficult to stop car.
You can bleed it all you want...keep going if you want, until you run the automated bleed procedure you will never get a good pedal and you'll just waste alot of brake fluid.
Just throwing out ideas....not saying that is the issue....just typing what pops into my head
When you replaced the master, you put air into the system. This is taken from GM Service Information.
-Clean the fluid reservoir cover and the surrounding areas.
-Inspect the fluid level in the reservoir and fill to the correct level if necessary.
-Clean the fluid reservoir cover and the surrounding area.
-Inspect the fluid level in the reservoir. Fill the reservoir to the correct level, if necessary.
-Install the fluid reservoir cover.
-Attach the bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the hydraulic modulator.
-Submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container that is partially filled with brake fluid.
-Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve 1/2 to 3/4 turns.
-Depress the brake pedal and hold the pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
-Close the valve and release the brake pedal. Repeat the previous two steps until no air bubbles are present.
-Repeat the previous three steps until the fluid begins to flow.
-Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve.
-Submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with brake fluid.
-Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve 1/2 to 3/4 turns.
-Depress the brake pedal and hold the pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
-Close the valve and release the brake pedal. Repeat the previous two steps until no air bubbles are present.
-Remove the fluid reservoir cover.
-Inspect the fluid level in the reservoir. Fill the reservoir to the correct level, if necessary. Use clean brake fluid.
-Install the fluid reservoir cover.
-Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
-Important: Bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence:
• Right rear
• Left rear
• Right front
• Left front
-Attach the bleeder hose to the bleeder valve.
-Submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with brake fluid.
-Open the bleeder valve.
-Slowly depress the brake pedal.
-Close the valve and slowly release the brake pedal.
-Wait 5 seconds.
-Repeat the previous five steps until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose.
-Tap lightly on the caliper or the braking plate in order to assist in freeing entrapped air.
You MAY be able to get away with not having to use a Tech2 using this method.
I converted my rears, and then my fronts 2 weeks later. At neither time did I have pedal issues, as the only place the lines were disconnected was at the fittings, nowhere near the MC.
Good luck.
14.330 @ 96.37mph
Just replaced the lines, still nothing. So it HAS to be air. Now how do i get the air out. I dont even care how it got in, how do I get it all out. Just go to GM? Buy a power bleeder and an ABS scan tool and set it to home? I did get the PM, the thing is I keep bleeding the air out of the system I mean I have been bleeding this for 3 days now and nothing works. I re bled the MC on the bench. Got it so there was no air , put it on the car bled the two screws on the MC, then all 4 calipers and nothing.
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Whats the Automated abs bleed. Can I do it myself or do i need an ABS tool. I can pick the tool up for $200 if that will make it so that it fixes my car I will buy that @!#$ right now.
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