i found the 11 1/4" kit now thanks to cinny
looks like i'll be doing another upgrade to match my 12" fronts
(this also means that i'll be ebaying my current neon setup)
ps - has anyone found any 7/16" washers at local autoparts stores that aren't ungodly thin? the ones at autozone are paper thin compared to the ones that come stock.
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
aside from that, has anyone found some thicker 10.6" rotors to fit the neon setup? i know that ours are 3/8" thick, and some of the other larger cars that used 10.6" were 1/2" thick. only problem is that i think some of them had a bigger hub and 5x114.3 pattern. does anyone know if we can use the srt4 rotors?
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alright guys, so as i fiddle with the daytona setup (which by the way, is MUCH more complex than the neon setup), I have realized that the piston sizes are NOT the same between the neon and daytona calipers. how do i know this? because I bought the seal kit for the calipers for a neon, and they definitely are slightly too small (not too crazy, but still). so yea, time to find the daytona seals.
ps - if anyone wants to buy some new seals for a neon lol, 6 bucks shipped.
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^hahah....that sucks man. Thats not what kragen says, at least on there site.
interesting, i have calipers from a daytona, so they're slightly larger?
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd
the calipers that are from the daytona iroc r/t with the larger 11.25" rear brakes has the larger calipers. the normal daytona has the same calipers as the neon.
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Kardain wrote:On the e-brake adjuster screw, does the threaded part need to face the front or rear of the vehicle... my e-brake isn't self adjusting like it should, so want to make sure it isn't in backwards
How do you know if it is self adjusting or not?
thats because it is NOT self adjusting. thats why there's a removeable rubber grommet there
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Viper98912 wrote:thats because it is NOT self adjusting. thats why there's a removeable rubber grommet there
thats what the extra bar is for on the J-body set up, its not present on the Chrysler set up
Viper98912 wrote:thats because it is NOT self adjusting. thats why there's a removeable rubber grommet there
Are you saying that none of the e-brake cables are self adjusting or that the non self adjusting have a rubber grommet?
none of them are self adjusting.
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Should i go back to Autozone and get a different caliper?
Notice the piston housing... I just noticed this trying to prep all of them for paint.
This one is sticking out quite a bit farther compared to the one above..
I've taken a clamp and tried to press it in further and it doesn't budge.
^^^ looks normal to me....and its pressed in all the way
that is the dust boot. it just wasn't inserted in all the way. i'm sure u've compressed the piston in as far as u can, just the dust boot isn't (and doesn't need to be). no big deal
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Ok, just checking
...another random question...
Any type of sealant need to go onto the threads of anything? Like the fittings into the calipers or SS lines into those fiting? I just found out we can order 3/16ths poly brake line in bulk through advance, so i am thinking about running some new lines to the rear of my car since the stockers are pretty rusty. Poly coated ones will last longer any who....
No, the lines and fittings use NPT and AN fittings neither need any thread coatings to seal.
Anyone know if a 15" wheel will clear the neon rear disc setup? I would assume that it would, but I just want to make sure.
I've had a 14" stock steel wheel on mine.
ltos of room with 15 inch steelies
but its strange, my steelies wouldnt clear my daytona on the rear, the older 87-88 calipers with integrated ebrake wouldnt clear
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd
^ daytona 10.6 or 11.25?
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i'm guessing it would be the smaller of the two...
this was on the Pacifica model, wich was the 'luxury' turbo daytona, with a Turbo 1 non-intercooled.
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier
5-spd
The more i tear apart my car, the more depressed i get. Honestly, at the rate i am finding what salt does to metal when my car was driven in winter i am going to need a new trailing arm, brake lines, gas tank, fuel lines, engine cradle subframe....
I finally got my old drums off all the way down to the hubs. Only to have to get the wire wheel out and go at them they were falling apart soo much, and one of the damn torx bolts i stripped out, so i had to drill the sonfa bitch out....
If this isn't love for my car, i don't know what is!
I've had to drill one of those bastards off once and it was a serious PITA. I always replace them with grade 8 bolts. Good luck man.
Viper98912 wrote:none of them are self adjusting.
Then how do you adjust the e-brake on 03+ cavi? my haynes manual says they are self adjusting.
T REX wrote:Viper98912 wrote:none of them are self adjusting.
Then how do you adjust the e-brake on 03+ cavi? my haynes manual says they are self adjusting.
Thats because your Haynes manual for the J-Body doesn't cover the Dodge Neon, those are the shoes in question here, they need to be done manually.