does your trans pan sit lower than the low spot on the oil pan? if not, then that brace will work...if it does, i'll have to check my car.
Im getting 5-10 of these sets made up right now.
So I will have them available and ready to ship soon.
Just sold one to Canada in case any of our friends to the north are wondering about shipping.
It was $32. So just a rough idea for you.
The sets will go for $85 plus shipping and include all hardware, just drill and bolt in.
Shipping in the continental US will be from $12-$17 with tracking and insurance!
Misnblu wrote:
Thnkin, get that bar on there and good luck with it.
Here's a good how to on installing it and make sure that you drill the holes the exact same size as the hardware you're going to use. This eliminates any play in the bar.
Also try to use some stainless steel hardware instead of anything that can rust.
Already have it bookmarked
!! I bought grade 8 hardware. I couldn't find the jack stands so it's on hold. Where is a safe place to jack the whole vehicle up instead of one side at a time? If there is such a spot.
I use the rocker areas or designated areas to keep the car on jacks. Just make sure that you leave enough room for the jack stands when you jack the car up.
I use the front of the frame rails for jacking the front up so that there's room for the jacks on the rocker area.
I also use the twist beams bushing/ pivot point to jack the car while the stand is going to be used on the rocker area in the rear.
Here's some pictures of where I have the stands located on the car with the whole car up on stands.
I've never had an issue with stability with this and just make sure that you do the front driver side corner first, then the front passenger side next and then do the same for the rear to have the whole car up on stands.
I also have used secondary jack stands for safety issues as I don't trust just one set when I'm under the car and my life is on the line.
Hope this helps.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
Btw, here's some better pics of where I jack the car.
Here's where I jack up the car on the front because it's the strongest point on the frame and tends to keep the room needed for the jack stand on the rocker area.
You'll see where the scratches are on the frame just to the right of the wire and aft of the split loomed heavy gauge wire.
You'll also see (barely) the jack stand to the left in red to give you some idea of how I do it.
Here's another pic of the front drivers side setup with the jack stand and you'll see the frame rail coming to the front of the car which is used to actually jack up the car.
Here's where the rear of the car is with the jack stand.
Yeah I know, it's not centered and could be dangerous but there's very little weight back there and at times that jack can be moved from it's position without affecting the car. Gotta love an ultra stiff chassis.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Alright thanks Blu'. I guess I will have to jack one side up at a time for the rear.
thnkin04eco wrote:
Already have it bookmarked!! I bought grade 8 hardware. I couldn't find the jack stands so it's on hold. Where is a safe place to jack the whole vehicle up instead of one side at a time? If there is such a spot.
I used a big floor jack to lift the back of the car, and stuck two jack stands on both ends of the frame. Then used a little jack to keep the front of the car from being at a extreme angle.
You need at least a foot and a half of wiggle room, if not two feet.
Also you want the trailing arm as high in the air as possible.
Depending on the length of the drill bit, you might not be able to get the drill under the arm to make the hole!
I couldnt do it with my jack and stands so I went to my buddies and used his lift!
Thats much much much more work!
I would just rather block it up 2-3 monre inches than take the whole arm off.
Drilling two hole VS. removing the whole arm assembly?????
LOL it was a joke, guys.
i already had it removed. getting it powdercoated and installing the LZM bushings as bluballs said.
Stand in the corner and SCREAM with me!!!!
i'm bumping this! cause i plan to buy one from Phil!
WiGM-Tuners member.
I have one in my garage right now, just waiting to put a final polish on it before I ship it to someone lucky!
Let me know when your interested, if it happens to sell, it usually only takes my machinist 3-4 days to make some more, depending on his schedule.
I usually get 3-5 made at a time.
Caboose73 wrote:Any idea if these would fit on an N-body? I can get you what ever measurements you need if your not sure.
Get me dimensions and I will make you one that will work!
How about that?
Please give me an "on center" dimension.
And let me know what size hole you can fit where you want to mount it?!
This will allow me to fit a bar and hardware together!
I did something like this on my ride, I would have drilled the holes but I didn't have a big enough bit for the holes.
So what I did was take a 1/4 inch think metal plate and cut a "U" in it and slid it inside of the housing losened the bolt and re-tourqued down, repeat for the other side.
Once I had my length down I cut a large hollow bar to specs hammered the ends down flat and drilled holes installed some washer in all ends just to be safe.
Works good with the rest of the mods I have it feels alot stiffer and the rear has a little more under-stear .
I'll post pics later.
But I will still go with this design it looks alot beefer and tighter.
http//www.umods.org/drift.html
umods@live.com/ddiaz@umods.org
David Diaz wrote:I did something like this on my ride, I would have drilled the holes but I didn't have a big enough bit for the holes.
So what I did was take a 1/4 inch think metal plate and cut a "U" in it and slid it inside of the housing losened the bolt and re-tourqued down, repeat for the other side.
Once I had my length down I cut a large hollow bar to specs hammered the ends down flat and drilled holes installed some washer in all ends just to be safe.
Works good with the rest of the mods I have it feels alot stiffer and the rear has a little more under-stear .
I'll post pics later.
But I will still go with this design it looks alot beefer and tighter.
If its anything like your previous ghetto parts builds, why even bother?
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Monday, February 22, 2010 9:12 PM
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
I have one in stock and ready to ship for one lucky soul!
Then I have to make some more.
