or, i've finally gone nuts.



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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -

Quote:

5.7 If you're simply reusing the old strut, take it off the old knuckle, impact wrench and a 2# sledge do this very quickly. If you're replacing anything (I put new KYB AGXs and B+G springs on) do that now. Follow any manufacture instructions that came with your new stuff.
5.7.1 If you disassembled your strut (for whatever reason) they go back in this order: Strut, Bump stop in shield, The bottom hat is attached to the shield (usually), bearing set, mount body, top hat, nut. This applies to 95-99 cars. The 2000+ are slightly different. Learn to pay attention to the order you take thing apart in.
5.8 Gut that buddy of yours again. Put the strut up in position.

How would N-body front struts work for this set-up? I know there is no aftermarket/lowering struts out there for n-bodies, but mantapart does sell N-body coilovers...very expensive...but so are j-body coilovers.....

..so would the N-body struts work in J-body strut towers?

N Body Front Struts are identical to J Body Front Struts except for valving.
The external dimensions are the same though.
I believe several other GM cars are also the same or close enough to fudge it (W, H, and G all ring a bell, but I've been wrong before).

Redzed99 wrote:How would N-body front struts work for this set-up? I know there is no aftermarket/lowering struts out there for n-bodies, but mantapart does sell N-body coilovers...very expensive...but so are j-body coilovers.....

..so would the N-body struts work in J-body strut towers?

No AFTERMARKET N-body struts?




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

SpeedRacerZ wrote:
No AFTERMARKET N-body struts?

Brian, you are right..i am/was wrong...not much else to say..
..I have KYB AGX's now...i like them but i have a 1 3/4" lowering springs...which is not warrented by KYB (max 1-1/2"). D-specs or Konis, are more what i was thinking...that 'no' shouldn't have been there...coil-overs would be that much nicer...adjustability...

..mainly I just wanted to see if N-body struts would work with a J...

I need to find myself a pair of J-body fronts, and I'll get N-body rears from PFYC...... getting the whole set is to expencive.




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

pm sent, since this is a sticky....

KYB just came out with AGXs for N Bodys a few months ago. Firgures, since GM stopped the N Platform.
The struts can be had on eBay much cheaper usually.
Also Koni J fronts work on N fronts, and Ford Taurus SHO '92 Koni's work on N Rears. In case you want to go coil-overs. See the IRS thread for more details.

i don't remember where, but I thought that even though the J and N looked identical, I thought that someone (maybe it was lenko?) that said the height of the Nbody strut was slightly shorter? I don't know the truth in this, just throwing it out there in case anyone knows.



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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -

I haven't compared the front struts... I'll be using J front struts on N-body knuckles and C-body (Park Avenue) hubs and 12" brakes.

I know the W and C body knuckles won't bolt up to a J or N body strut... the bolt holes are much further apart.

^Whats the benefit of the C-body hub?

^Stronger for the L67 swap. Personally I think the N hub is good to 300HP or so, but I don't blame people for going "rather safe than sorry".

Those other struts (non J or N body) could have new holes drilled and made to work if you're into masochism.... No point really.

C-body hub still use the N-body outer burfield or does it use a C-body? and is it still a 5x115 pattern?

I dont think the hub itself has much to do with what HP/Trq it can handle...... its more of a cornering load thing. The heavier the car, the stronger the hub/bearing has to be. To the Hub, speed is speed....... doesnt matter how much power your putting to it (unless you can manage to strip the hub-axle splines, but I'd be willing to bet the trans or CV's would go first).




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

SpeedRacerZ wrote:I dont think the hub itself has much to do with what HP/Trq it can handle...... its more of a cornering load thing. The heavier the car, the stronger the hub/bearing has to be. To the Hub, speed is speed....... doesnt matter how much power your putting to it (unless you can manage to strip the hub-axle splines, but I'd be willing to bet the trans or CV's would go first).

The benefit is not that the hub can handle more power, but that it takes the larger axle shaft, and still fits onto the N knuckle.

N Body struts are minutely different. I really don't see why you would want to use them anyway because we have better struts available for our cars. Now I would understand the discussion being on the n-body.net forum because they don't have many options.

I think the C Hub bolts right into the N knuckle, but Lenko would have to confirm that, I don't know.
I don't know if Lenko is planning on running Slicks at the track, but street tires aren't going to get enough grip to snap a N CV or Axle (I think).

C.T.S wrote:I think the C Hub bolts right into the N knuckle, but Lenko would have to confirm that, I don't know.
I don't know if Lenko is planning on running Slicks at the track, but street tires aren't going to get enough grip to snap a N CV or Axle (I think).

The C hub definitely fits the N knuckle. I confirmed that a few pages back. I ended up with a hub by accident, and noticed that they look identical to the N, except they are made for a larger shaft. I believe it was Lenko who was thinking about it, so I went and tried them out, measured them up, and it's all a perfect fit. Too bad GM had to go use a different design for the J, else people who weren't doing the IRS swap could just keep their old hubs for the big break swap.

Yup... it fits the N-body knuckle the same... it's got a larger axle... exactly right

I'm using them, only because I grabbed them from the Buick Park Avenue Ultra that I pulled the drivetrain from for my L67 swap.... so.... instead of mixing and matching other axles and bits that may or may not work easily... I figured, it's simpler to just shorten the BPA axles and use the hubs that work with them

hmmm so im debating now to put the full n-body setup on my car and add a thin spacer if necessary to make the stock 01 z wheels work (after changing the lugs to the 5x100 holes that are already in the stock n-body hub)

now if only i could figure out what to do about the damn 70.3 mm bore because i dont want to bore out the wheels.....ive debated cutting off the whole center bore nub (minus the part where the rotor sits), obviously redrilling the rotor for 5x100, and creating hub rings to sit inside the original bore hole with a protrusion coming out, width of 57.1 mm. bah! so much work, but i think its the only thing thats gonna work to get some 11" brakes on my jbody. my wilwood plan fell through because of measurements



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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -

unless that second set of holes is not 100, but actually 110, or just something not 100. SIGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH back to the drawing board.



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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -

well here's a question for some of you who might have looked into this, and that is how radically different are the internals of the wheel bearings?



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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -

I haven't checked, but my gut tells me they are larger diameter based on the fact that the hub size is so much larger, so the bearing is going to have to fit around it.

I'm never one to discourage experimenting, but if you're thinking of taking apart the two hub assemblies and swaping the parts, I'm 99.9% sure it's not possible.

yea, after i posted that last night i thought about it some more and realized its pretty impossible. back to the drawing board.....



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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -

Have you considered something like James Cahill did on his 2nd gen, or are you trying to get your stockers on without any custom parts?

This is a really neat setup! Just curious, the Impala came with the same rotors as an F-body? There weren't any thickness differences?