I have a set of Hoosiers mounted on Impala steel rims, from my '02.



SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

anyone had problems with ball joint rubbing on brake disc? just lowered the car today and its rubbing badly. had to put 2 washer behind the disc and caliper brackets.

I never ran into that problem.

What parts are you using? (brake/suspension)


SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Magik1109 wrote:anyone had problems with ball joint rubbing on brake disc? just lowered the car today and its rubbing badly. had to put 2 washer behind the disc and caliper brackets.

Some have had this problem. Some of the ball joints are a little larger than others, and it seems the tolerance for placement of the ball joint boss in the knuckle isn't that tight. I've seen as much as an 1/8" variance in clearance of the ball joint and the rotor.

i'm using the alu control arms with nwf brake swap. camaro calipers with ebc rotors.
suspension is tokiko dspec with sportlines.
now i notice that the ball joint is installed under the arms and should be on top. i will fix that this week and see if the problem is solve.
i will let you guys know
thanx for the help.

That may help, if the bottom edge of the ball joint is contacting the rotor because of the angle it's at.

However, there are definitely some ball joints that are slightly thicker than others, and the bore in the knuckle isn't positioned to a tight tolerance.

i installed the ball joint on top of the arms today and it still rub on the rotor. alot less now, but still too much expecially when turning....
how would i go about shopping for new ball joint that will get me the right clearance??

You would have to just compare them side by side. Also, as I mentioned, I think this is a tolerance issue on the knuckles themselves, because I have noticed variance in exact placement of the ball joint bore. What I can tell you is that I have not seen an OEM ball joint rub yet. I've got 4 sets of spindles, and the OEM ball joint doesn't rub the rotor with any of them.

And the OEM one is acdelco right?

I believe so, but when I say I haven't seen an OEM one rub, I mean ones that I've pulled from a yard that are still rivited on, indicating original.

if oem, that means no shortened arms which would gives camber and more clearance....??
how do i spot the different knucle?

Magik1109 wrote:if oem, that means no shortened arms which would gives camber and more clearance....??
how do i spot the different knucle?

No on the camber, because my struts are slotted to allow proper alignment.

As for the difference in knuckle, I'm assuming you mean the tolerance issue I mentioned. You would actually need to know what the distance from the plane of the hub mount face to the edge of the ball joint bore is on one that didn't rub. I don't have that measurement. I'll see if I can compare some of the knuckles I have and get that, but some of my stuff is burried in storage at the moment, so it might take a while.

Has anyone tried using a Camaro drag kit from Wilwood with this setup??




Jason
99 Z24

LG0/LD9 for Life
10 Year Bash Veteren

I can't remember if this was posted in here yet or not, but Kore3 makes an adapter bracket that allows you to use C5 or C6 (base, Z51 or ZR1) calipers and rotors...direct bolt-up, and doesn't add any spacing.

It's $105 for the brackets...just reference the n-body front kit...comes with all hardware needed: www.kore3.com

OMG That would be amazing.. Thanks for the info.

Ran into a major issue with starting this swap, bought all my part and started to take apart the axles for the outer cv joint swap and the jbody axle does not have that clip on the outside that you squeeze to get the cv joint off the end of the axle, the Nbody has that clip. Anyone run into this problem? Fix?


3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)

I know, old thread SORRY, but...does anyone know if anyone has successfully done this swap on a second-gen (1993)?

Thanks!

No, it hasn't been (at least not exactly like this)

There are several other swaps using similar parts that have been done on 2nd gens that get you the same or better brakes. All of those are available in the Suspension FAQ on www.v6z24.com.

James Cahill wrote:No, it hasn't been (at least not exactly like this)

There are several other swaps using similar parts that have been done on 2nd gens that get you the same or better brakes. All of those are available in the Suspension FAQ on www.v6z24.com.

James, I've been toying with the idea of combining this swap with your (using the adapter plate idea to keep 5x100). What's your smallest wheel size and do you think the stock 3rd gen 16in LS wheels will fit?

I did this mod earlier this year, and it was awesome! Needed better brakes for HPDE track days. This did the trick wonderfully. I've very glad I did it. Was basically a bolt on, I didn't even have to make the hybrid axles. I used the Grand am axles and they worked in my 2.2 5 speed trans(the isuzu MK7 transmission) The length of the passanger axle was slightly shorter than the j-body one, but within' the amount that the axle moves in and out. Driver side was slightly longer, but I don't notice any problems, and i've been to 1 track day already, and an 8 hour road trip.

Here are some photos of the parts pile before install.

Attachments

IMG_3076.JPG (309k)
IMG_3074.JPG (454k)
IMG_3073.JPG (448k)
IMG_3077.JPG (404k)

more parts, and some of the photos of the install.

Parts list I used:
Obvious parts
1. Aluminum control arm from grand am 99+
2. Aluminum steering knuckle from a 99+ grand am.
3a. do some research on carid.com, about axle lengths, and see if you can use just the grand am ones. This is what I did. I used part number NCV10606 (passanger side) and NCV10605 (drivers side)
3b. make hybrid axles from inner jbody, outer grand am (hub is different, spline count is too)
4. moog ball joint for aluminum grand am control arm (they make 2 types 1 for aluminum, and 1 for steel). Get the right one. I used MOOG-K6701 on both sides.
5. Wheel bearings. I did Moog for this as well. part number 513137. you'll need 2, 1 for each side.
6. Brake rotors from a 2004 Chevy impala. This was the largest rotor I could find that would fit. I used Centric Cryostop rotors, since they are for race, you can just get generic ones. My part number was 125.62055CRY
7. Brake calipers: I used Chevy C5 Z06 calipers, which are functionally the same as the non-z06 calipers, but powdercoated red. (I like red ) I got these on ebay, to save money. If you wait, and shop around, you should be able to find a pair for $200-$250 or so.
8. Brake caliper bracket. Here, you want to us the 2000 camaro brake caliper. I just ordered some off rockauto new. P.S. you will want to paint or powder coat these. I didn't and in just 2-3 weeks, they were a nice crusty rust orange. i just pulled them, cleaned them and painted with caliper paint.
9. Brake pads: Get pads that match the brake caliper bracket, so for a 2000 Chevy Camaro. I just got some basic Duralast Gold C-max pads for my street use. I used race pads on the track. Carbotech xp10, worked GREAT!
Not so obvious parts
10. Slide pins for caliper bracket, retaining bolt for caliper. The bolts to hold the caliper bracket onto the knuckle. (i either used rock auto, or GM parts to get them)
11. caliper brake line bolt. I used a generic brake hose Banjo, part number 13912, from autozone. and copper crush washers in a similar package, part number 66223. You'll need 2 of each of those, for each side.
12. dust boot covers for the slide pins. (got from rock auto as well). There may be a kit to get it all together (slide pins, bolts, and dust covers)
13. ABS connector bracket (goes between knuckle and wheel bearing) I just got these from GM. Bot too bad for price. maybe $5-10 each.
14. Outer tie rod arm, for a grand am. (this is to match the new knuckle, since the taper is different between jbody and n-body. )
15. Brake lines. My stock Russel stainless steel ones worked great. So, use those.
16. MOST IMPORTANT a 1/8" 5x115 spacer. I got everything assembled, and lowered the car, and as i drove a few feet, I heard metal rubbing, and It was the ball joint hitting the inside of the rotor. Caused a nice gouge in it. A 1/8" spacer fixed that, and all was well. get 2 of these, obviously, 1 for each side.
Also, with the wider wheel base from the control arm, you may need to have a camber bolt, and/or event slot the shock tower to get a proper alignment, but a little negative camber is good for what I do, track days.




Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, June 06, 2017 2:07 PM

Attachments

IMG_3075.JPG (492k)

Here are some pics from the install, on my passenger side.
Oh, and I should mention the obvious that this requires a new wheel, since the bolt pattern is different. the grand am bolt pattern is 5x115. Yes, you can force a 5x114.3 on it, as I did until my new wheels showed up, but for the racing I do, it's too dangerous to use 5x114.3, with the stress going through the wheels. I ordered some TSW nurburgring wheels in 17x8", 5x115 (the 5x115 is a custom order, but they will do it for you, no extra cost, just takes a few weeks) So, before you assume that wheel you want isn't in 5x115, call the manufacture. They might be able to make them.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, June 06, 2017 2:05 PM

Attachments

IMG_3088.JPG (335k)
IMG_3086.JPG (370k)
IMG_3095.JPG (283k)
IMG_3099.JPG (218k)
IMG_3092.JPG (245k)