Well i have been looking at doing a swap for awhile now. the 2.4 is more bolt in, but doesnt seem like the money/power outcome would please me. the 3800 would be more work than im looking for. now reading about the 3400 seems right up my alley because of its being halfway bolt in and decent power.
So just wondering for those who have done it....
How much did it cost (give or take)?
How much time did it take, and did u use jackstands or a lift?

also those who have been tuning them, where can i find some internal engine components? i cant find much, and GMPP has just about nothing. so just wondering where i can find some cams, forged inners and maybe 9:1 pistons. i plan on it being all motor so also how much n2o could be put to the stock bottom end?
help is appreciated

Hah, and on Aleromod people can't wait to ditch their 3400s for the 2.2L or 2.4L... lower intake manifold gasket leaks, headgaskets, aftermarket is nearly nonexistant. Milzy Motorsports makes stuff. Guy on Aleromod is selling his forged Wiseco pistons for the 3400 brand new.


2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero

[ion wrote: C2]Hah, and on Aleromod people can't wait to ditch their 3400s for the 2.2L or 2.4L... lower intake manifold gasket leaks, headgaskets, aftermarket is nearly nonexistant. Milzy Motorsports makes stuff. Guy on Aleromod is selling his forged Wiseco pistons for the 3400 brand new.

silly j's huh? thing is if there gaskets are fixed properly and before there dropped in its completely worth it for a j that weighs less. also i notice under the hood of the alero that you have twice the room for turbo setups compared to us, might be another reason to.
i'm sure there ar others to.

op- kinda interested to in cost.

$1200, no accessories.

you can do it for around $1500 if you can get a decently priced engine. As for time, if you want to take the easy way out, and are mechanically inclined, you could do it in a weekend.


1997 Sunfire SE

I've probably got 1000-1500 in the whole thing. Engine, Standalone and all.

But I got a good deal on my engine.

Um deff not a weekend if you want to get the performance that I got out of mine. Not to talk myself up but I think mine outta everyone on this site that has done the swap yielded the best results. And yes I have had lots of help from everyone (Thanks). I had alot of time to do mine because I was at school. PnP Heads, custom tuning and everything. I think mine ran me around $2000 for misc stuff, the motor and HP Tuners. I think this swap is VERY, VERY well worth the time and money. When I go to the track and am waiting in the staging lanes I get a CROWD around my car and so many questions I dont even know where to start. If you can do this swap you will not only have a fast J, you will have the respect from Mustang GTs when there looking at your taillights .


3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)

My swap is getting kinda expensive... but I am a college student.

If you go to www.60degreev6.com they have lots of good stuff... I ordered a camp from them, along with the comp valve springs and retainers... $700 dollars later, lol. I'm also going to P&P my heads and see where this all gets me, I'm shooting for a mid 13 because I have to compete with my gfs Grand Prix SE she's basically turned into a GTP, lol.

But everything in... I paid $600 for my motor w/ no accessories
$350 for a wiring harness alternator, and T bracket (harness is pre-wired to mate up to a cav harness)
$100 for the upper mount
$700 for headwork stuff
$250 for gaskets
$100 for a P/S Pump
$55 for a water pump
$350 for a clutch...
$300 for HP tuners

The list gets really big, really fast... just keep that in mind. I'm missing a ton of crap I'm sure, lol.


There will always be someone faster than you, but thousands slower and dumber than you.

I currently have about $1300 into mine, including some brand new parts I bought because I couldn't score them used, like the "Y" bracket for the upper mount, the hard line for the heating loop, etc. That total also includes the complete exhaust parts, not just the downpipe, as I needed to replace my cat anyway, and since I have to reroute the back end to get around the IRS swap, I just decided to do the whole thing from the engine back.

I do still have to pick up HPT, so that's going to add another $300, and I will be doing some mods to the motor, but doing a cam swap, and head work, P&P, etc., does not really count toward the cost of the swap. If you guys back out what you've done to the motor, it's obvious how inexpensive the swap really can be, especially for someone who has an OHV car, compared to swapping an LD9 or Eco.

You can't really make the statement that any way to go is better, but I will definitely take a 6 over a 4 banger any day.

And to answer your question about where to get parts for the 3x00, definitely check out the 60degreeV6.com store, but I'll warn you: it's easy to drop a sh!tload of money there. They have lots of goodies, including complete top end swaps with everything you need, port matched manifolds, and a whole slew of custom cam grinds that, if chosen properly, can tie in all your mods to make a very nice engine.

Oh, i forgot to add the 500 I got for the 3500 heads and intakes. However, they're not actually on the car they're still sitting in boxes, so I guess they don't count.

But my exhaust, when you're away from the leak sounds OMGood.

Nitrous Nate wrote:Um deff not a weekend if you want to get the performance that I got out of mine. Not to talk myself up but I think mine outta everyone on this site that has done the swap yielded the best results. And yes I have had lots of help from everyone (Thanks). I had alot of time to do mine because I was at school. PnP Heads, custom tuning and everything. I think mine ran me around $2000 for misc stuff, the motor and HP Tuners. I think this swap is VERY, VERY well worth the time and money. When I go to the track and am waiting in the staging lanes I get a CROWD around my car and so many questions I dont even know where to start. If you can do this swap you will not only have a fast J, you will have the respect from Mustang GTs when there looking at your taillights .

I have to admit, you got some sweet 1/4 mile times with your car. I'm heading to a 1/4 mile track aug 9 to race, can't wait to see what i get. I had some issues when i went to the 1/8 races and i was kinda disapointed in the times, but got alot of stuff worked out.


As for my swap, my first 3100 swap cost me a grand total of 400$ which includes oil, coolant, LIM gaskets. I got that swap done in a weekend and then drove that set up for almost 5 months and did roughly 9000 miles. Then i swap the 3100 out for a 3400, that cost me 350$ and was also done in a weekend. Since then i have switched my wiring over to OBD1 which cost me 50$. I have also had a full 2.5 exhaust with a hi-flow cat and dynomax muffler, that cost 500$ So total that up and it's around 1300$ for 2 engine swaps and a sweet exhaust.

As for the guy saying it's not worth it, thats b.s. I love driving my car, the torque is sweet and the sound is even better. Not one single regret at all.




660 powered sunfire

i have a 91 cav rs TBI with the 3 spd auto. the motor and tranny are shot. i wanna replace it but im torn to just replace it with a newer motor or go with the 3400 and a tranny.

thanks for all the info. i am got the motor for 125 with a spun cam bearing and no accesories. which i dont care to much about because i plan on building it anyhow. i just planned on a slight performance car because its my summer dd, i want it to be reliable. really i just plan on forged pistons/rods and a 75shot. other than that i will have to check out aleromod and 60degreev6 for other stuff. any other recomendations i should plan on, keeping it between 1000-1500 total parts cost?

Ryan Thompson wrote:...keeping it between 1000-1500 total parts cost?

LOL. Good luck with that. I'm telling you, once you start shopping the 60degreeV6 store, you'll want to drop three times that.

haha yesss sir^^^ I try to limit how much I go to that site cause I dont have money right now lol


3400 SWAP DONE. 187WHP 212TQ (14.2 @100MPH NA) 240WHP 310TQ (N2O)

3400 should already come with forged rods

You can modify SBC rods though if you'd like to pull serious high RPM's.