I am pretty sure my fuel pressure regulator on my '99 2,2L is dying as I am having issue with starting the car when the motor is hot. I have already replaced the fuel pump and filter and they did not have any effects on this issue.

Is there a HOW-TO somewhere online changing the stock fpr for another stock fpr?

Thanks!



J

I would have to say that your looking at the wrong part. I have never changed a fuel press regulator on a third gen. On the cars that the regulator goes bad the symptom is usually a hole in the diaphram causing extra gas to get in the intake.
Actually on a normal functioning J , you can unhook the vac. line from the regualtor and see no difference in normal driveability , so in case that is your diagnosing route, it doesnt mean anything. they only way to confirm that there is nothing wrong with it is to attach a fuel press gauge and apply the vac. to the regulator and remove the vac. and see if the pressure changes. But like I already said , I have never seen a regulator go bad on a J, not even on a first or second gen.
Now if you had a G10 ,G20 van v8 or an s10 w/ a 4.3 then Id say maybe that would be the problem, since they have issues with their fuel systems up front.

If anything I would steer towards a timing issue, like a worn out timing chain or a tired cam or crank sensor. and depending on what it actually does when you try to start it , you might want to look at the ignition module for poor operation under higher temps or also check for a coolant temp sensor that is not covering the full temp range.


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

Wow, some great info in your post!

Well essentially here is the story/scenario at this point. There is no CEL at all. Took car to dealer and they are the ones that suggested fuel pump replacement, which was done and still no change. TPS is brand new, as is fuel filter.

Problem is, when motor is hot, car will crank over fine but refuses to start after a couple of seconds of cranking. There is no smell of fuel or flooding. If I start the car with the gas pedal fully depressed (which cuts fueling in case of flooding) the car will start up much better and quicker without ecessive cranking. TThere is no black smoke out the exhaust when I do this.

Now, you bring up a good point about timing as the car we bought used @ 160K and I got NO service records so I can probably assume that the timing chain was NOT done. Car has ~190K on it now. Is this an indepth job that probably requires the dealer? I will look into replacing the crank and/or cam position sensors if they are do-able for the normal wrencher like me. I know on my '97 2.2L when the crankshaft sensor needed to be replaced it was plastic and 1/2 of the sensor broke inside the motor and that required the dealer to remove the oil pan to fix that issue. Is the crankshaft sesnor the same on a '99 2,2L?

Thanks for the assistance, look forward to your reply!



J

since you dont have a check engine light on , it makes finding the cause a little harder. I wouldnt totally rule out the fuel pump first of all. Just cause its new doesnt mean anything at all now a days. I have had several problems with Airtek fuel pumps, they are total crap and are a commonly stocked replacement. If I have a choice when buying a new pump, I dont get the cheap one.... Either Bosch or AC delco dont mess with any others. It is possible that your pump is heating up causing your problem. What I have found with the junk pumps is the pump will heat up and draw the amperage and voltage from the circuit, causing a loss in pump pressure and volume. to check it test the voltage at the fuel pump when you start it cold, it should be close to the battery voltage maybe .5 volts less, check at the plug that goes in the floor over the rear axle. larger grey wire is the positive , black is the ground. Then check it when it is hot and see if the voltages are drastically different from cold running. If you find that the voltage is way off , try running the pump from another battery, which will boost up the amperage and voltage since it will be the only thing pulling on the circuit. If I remember right the pump is not on its own circuit, I think it shares the fuel injector feed and one of the ecm feeds, so if your not getting a good voltage at the pump tehn your not getting good voltage to the injectors and ecm. This is a common problem that has plaqued the s10 blazers for years, I have seen it on a couple of cavs, just not as common. Let me know how that test turns out.

As for the timing chain, It has to been changed if you have that many miles on it. At about 140-150k the chain will get so much slack in it that it will not start, if it doesnt break first or the nylon guides make a racket when the break and fall apart. So if it doesnt sound like a diesel when it is Ideling your fine.


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e

Well the fuel pump was a complete assembly from AC Delco so its as good as it gets in that regard. I will attempt to try out the voltage test as you mentioned.

In regards to the timing chain, there is no noise at all from it so as you suggested it must of been changed even though the dealer has no record of it being done? Weird, who knows, but the dealer did confirm saying if the timing chain is not making any noise, don't worry about it...



J

just cause the dealer doesnt have records of it being changed doesnt mean anything, Its a fairly simple job and could easily be done by a handy owner instead of paying a dealer. hense no record.
I would have to say the chain is good, but if it were mine and knowing that there is a possibility that it could leave me on the side of the road, Id plan on changing it soon. But I sometimes worry too much. But yeah, if its not noisy its good for a while.
Any way, If your have a delco pump its probably fine but Id still check the voltages to be sure.


01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e