well iam rebuilding my 2.4l ld9 with high compression pistons probley 11.1: so how high of a shot are you guys spraying on high compression i was thinking a 50 shot????
chances are you got forged internals while you went through the process of raising compresion? So long as its all forged spray the @!#$ out of it. ANythign over a 75 shot I would recomend a progressive controler, and dirrect port is your friend. Either way on a built motor a 50 shot is a waste of time unless its just used to help spool a huge turbo
btw generall rule of thumb.... for boost you lower compression, for N/A and nitorus you raise compression
i knew you lower compression for boost like turbo or supercharger but wasn't sure as for nitrous so with forged pistons and rods and a ported head whats like the highest i should spray and still be safe i am going to be using a wet kit for sure so just to get that clear. and thanks darkstars
thanks
Paul
you should easily be able to run a 100 shot if you got rods, pistons, rings, and bearings. A lot of people run 100 shots on that motor stock. All you need to do now is hook up.
since you raise the comp it will change the the paramiteras that the stock ecu is used to seeing . so i think your going to need also a controller for ignition timing and fuel injection timing . just my opinion i wouldnt spray much more than a 100 shot on a 11:1 comp setup you are all ready going to have fuel issues youll need to run only the highest octane now you can find . but good luck with it .
13's or blowning it. wayhttp://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/slowfire99/100_0463.jpg
so you think 11.1: compression on a street car is to high what octane would i need to run when iam not running nitrous and what octane when iam running nitrous ???
Thanks
Paul
93 octane is a min with or without nitrous and like i said your going to need some type of fuel mangemment to use the nitrous on a eng with that high of compressoin
13's or blowning it. wayhttp://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/slowfire99/100_0463.jpg
im not trying to burst your bubble i just dont want you to spend a bunch of money on the engine and blow it up because somebody didnt tell you what you needed. lol!
13's or blowning it. wayhttp://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e175/slowfire99/100_0463.jpg
well the highest octane i can get around here is 91 so what is a more suitable compression for 91 octane
Thanks
Paul
problem with 11:1 compression for a street car is heat. Thats a pretay high amount of compression, when its thats high you start to get hot spots in the compression chambers which isn't good, to hot means blown head gaskets. I would recomdend 10:1 or 10.5:1 probobally the 10.5 You'll need the rods, pistons, new bearings, new gaskets, depending on milage but if your in there you might want to do an oil pump, its a good idea. Wet kit is not the way to go if your tryingt o go all out, run a direct port kit with a progressive controller, you almost need th progressiv controler if you plan on getting traction with a big shot. Either way I wouldn't recomend using a big shot on 91 ocatne. I used 100 ocatne when I ran 100 shot in mine. You will want a btter ignition, stronger spark and being abl to retard timing a few degrees. start off with a smaller shot and work your way up and mak sure the fuel system is keping up, if it isn't then its time for a pump
can you retard timing with hptuner and how would i get a stronger spark on a 2.4 with the idi cover theres no wire or anything you know what i mean? as for fuel system i know what need to be done.
so you think 10.5 compression whats the stock compression on a 97 ld9? and do you have any idea how much hp i will gain just from boosting compression. and where do you get 100 octane ?
Thanks
Paul
Get a Nitrous book from a hot rod shop and it will probbly tell you that 10.5 is the highest you want to go.
Stock LD9 = 9.5 to 9.7, Mine was 9.3 befor the "POP"
Good rule of thumb is to beef up the internal's befor you start adding any "power adders".
Having fun with the grocery getter.
so let just say now that i went with 10.5: compression and it was all forged rods and pistons. and i got new bearings, rings and bored it out .020 over and ported my head.
the mods i have now will all go back on
lightend crank pulley
lightend flywheel 9.5 pounds
stage 2 clutch
stage 2 pressure plate
ho intake manifold port matched to head
56 mm t/b
cold air intake
4-1 header 2 1/4'' header back exhaust
secret cams 360 lift on intake, 375 lift on exhaust
about what would i see for wheel hp with all of this put togather?
and how much hp would just the ported head and bearings, rings,rods, and pistons,stiffer valve springs gain me on my set up now
thanks
paul
probbly about 160 to 180whp running on the lean side....of course this is if your not doing anything to upgrade fuel system. The cam's, tb, and port and polish all are helping add more air to the mix, I dident see where you increased the fuel supply.
The Circle of Hot Rodding
The more air it takes in the more fuel you'll need, so you upgrade the fuel system, now your making more power, so there is more stress on the motor, you install better internal components, which leads to transmission failure, so you rebuild the transmission, now the suspension is inadequate, so you upgrade the suspension, but now you have problems slowing down, you then upgrade the brakes, now your car has traction issues, you install better tires/slick's, of course by now your are used to the cars speed and want to go faster, sp you install a turbo/Nitrous/Supercharger system, which adds more air....and the circle continues.
Having fun with the grocery getter.
iam planing on upgrading to a higher flowing fuel pump and higher flow injectors so there will be no problem with fuel.
Thanks
Paul
and adding a lsd insert when the Tran's off anyway
and adding a lsd insert when the Tran's off anyway
there is absolutely no way anyone can give you an accurate guess on what you will b putting down tot he wheels. ANyone who throws up a number is just taking a shot in the dark
Darkstars wrote:ANyone who throws up a number is just taking a shot in the dark
Yep! which is exactly what he asked for, and from my experiance (although very slight and rather dimwitted beacuse I am on motor #5) my guess should be pretty close. Then again I am more often wrong than I am right.
I still stick to my 160-180whp guesstimate. The turd hit 147whp with only minor sensor "tweak's" and other free bee upgrade I read about on this site. So my "guess" shouldent be that far off.
Having fun with the grocery getter.
well thanks alot guys you have help out alot.
Thanks
Paul
Make sure you go with a colder plug also.
Get a wideband and spend some money for some dyno time.
Just make sure you tune it!
MSD coil setup and DIS-2 is in your future, HP tuners can retard the timing, but your spark isnt goign to be any stronger. There havent been many that sprayed 100shot on the 2.4, but NITRO spray a 125 on a stock 2.4 with only an arming switch and a WOT switch. Dangerous, but the guy knew what he was doing. He couldnt get off the line whatsoever with the 100 shot if I remember correctly, so if you plan on spraying in 1 or 2, you better get a progressive controller. Or if you want to keep it as cheap as possible, get flip the arming switch as you get out of 2nd gear.
iam probley only gonna spray a 35 50 shot any way
all this talk an your only gonna run a 35-30 @!#$?
