so i went to a local store and purchased everything i need except the fuse because they didnt have a 300 A fuse (i got 1/O wire). then i went to a local audio shop (has a great reputation) and i was told by the salesman not to bother with the fuse. He said that when u put the fuse in it, the equivalent resistance is like putting a piece of 8 gauge wire in that section, so it reduces the overall effectiveness of the upgrade. he also said that since the alternator has an internal regulator it will never be able to put out nearly enough to even think about blowing the fuse. He said he has done this many times and never installed a fuse. Any thoughts?
The fuse is there not for fear that the alternator will blow it, it is there so that if there is an issue, say an accident and the some how the rubber sheathing is severed and the wire grounds out. The alternator will blow, but the fuse will trigger and the battery will be saved. You may ask yourself. Why would I want my expensive alternator to blow when a battery is so much cheaper. Have you ever seen what happens when a battery grounds out? It can be quite detrimental. I don't know how accurate saying a 300A fuse is equivalent to an 8 gauge wire is, but being that 0/1 can handle 350A I would say a fuse is a good idea.
thats a good point, i hadnt thought of it that way. since the fuse is only there for fear of a short would i be able to use a smaller fuse, say 175 A, as they are alot more readily available (and much cheaper too). i know that a smaller fuse will have more resistance than a big one but it doesnt sound like the resistance in the fuse is an issue.
ok so im wanting to do the big 3 finally and for some reason my computer is retarded and wont let me see any of the pics on here........... anyway one of you could email them to me????
Would anyone recondmend using 5 gauge wire?? i may have a dimming problem haha. what about the ground wire i have 8 gauge ground and power wire but thats not good enough is it?? .
you can get 1 gauge at autozone for next to nothing. Go into the area with the jumper cables and battery terminals. Its just replacement battery cables. You can get them in up to 15ft I believe.
When it comes down to it, anything stock sized or larger is going to help as long as you keep the stock cable attached as well.
Sunfire92 wrote:Would anyone recondmend using 5 gauge wire?? i may have a dimming problem haha. what about the ground wire i have 8 gauge ground and power wire but thats not good enough is it?? .
Depends how much power youre running.
5 gauge isnt bad. Its just oddball and is probably closer to 6 gauge which is something ive noticed with oddball sizes like that.
Will definatley do this after I finsih up on my cutsom setup for my sytem. Great info! Credit to the original writer.
Hey guys i have a question:
if i use 1/0 can i use a 250A or even a 200A fuse instead of 300A? that is to use a smaller fuse so as to be on the safe side?
the same for 4awg, can i use a smaller fuse? for example 120A instead of 150A??
will this upgrade also help a stock car that has dimming headlights and instrument cluster?
thanx so much!
it will help a stock car. Also, check the grounds under the battery, and at the battery tray.
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-MD- Enforcer wrote:it will help a stock car. Also, check the grounds under the battery, and at the battery tray.
i know they are dead that is why i was wondering if it will help a stock car, there is rust at the battery tray and rust with the connection.. plus the battery terminals that are on the cables are so bad, they keep building up with the white/green corrosion and i keep cleaning them and sanding them down a bit, but recently they became so thin because of this! and the headlights are dim and the whole electricity of the car at night flickers!! can't wait to do the big 3 although it will be difficult to get the right stuff to do the job here is israel, not so many places get these things, any online source recommended other than ebay?
Get your cable at a welding shop, it will be cheaper and finer wire which will bend easier. you can get a small variety of colors. also you can take a blowtorch to that stuff, which you will when you solder on your end connector.
instead of buying copper end eyes, get a piece of copper pipe that your wire barely fits in. cut off a 2 inch pice, put half in a vice and squish it flat or use a hammer. put in a gob of paste flux or use oateys #11 liquid soldering flux which is very thin and gets in any crack, is very aggressive, and leaves clean joints. then stick your wire in with a 3/4" of sheath stripped, and use your blowtorch and some 60/40 or silver bearing solder. Don't use lead free, and watch out for burns, heat and chemical.
next drill a hole in the flat part of the pipe you just soldered on. make sure to sand the contact area of frame and connector with 200 grit. when you go to bolt your connectors to frame do just that, bolt them not screw. A bolt can be tightened to the point that the copper will bend to fit the surface well. you could also then solder this connnection but most will want it removable or not feel comfortable with a blowtorch around their engines. You could also use one of those massive soldering irons If you have one. The joint should than be clear coated with oil resistant paint or at least put bearing grease on it.
this will give you the best connection possible even if it is overkill, but you do love your car that much don't you?
My sig- "Doing what needs to be done, although satisfactory, is a far cry from what can be done."