Ok..here's my setup. In the front door I have installed a pair of Polk MOMO 6.5 components (MMC6500), in the rear I have a cheap pair or Lightning Audio 6X9's from Wal-mart (I know..I know..I bought those before I really knew anything.), I have a Pioneer GM-6400 4-Channel Amplifier, and a Kenwood X-492 Head Unit. I am missing the midbass. In fact I don't really have any bass at all. I used to have a Alpine MRV-T407 driving the rear deck..actually I had it wired mono and had it driving all 4 speakers..but the point is I could make my rearview mirror shake with the bass. The only difference between the two amps is that the alpine had a bass EQ and the kenwood does not. I'm not all about the bass and I don't expect it to sound like a subwoofer..just want some midbass from the deal just to fill out the sound. Is my only option to replace the amp? This may be a dumb question but I am very cheap and want to know if thats my next step or if there is an alternative. Thanks in advance
suppose I should throw in. Are you using high pass filters in the amp or head unit, if so, bring them down to about 60 or so
i have the same problem, i had to buy 2 subwoofers to fix that problem... even stockers produced more bass than the alpines i got...
No..the head unit is on all pass right now..and I've messed with the eq in every way I know how to maybe squeeze some out of it...but I think the next step is to seal the doors..as mentioned above ^^ and later i will most likely add subs of some sort. Right now I don't want to put subs in bcuz i'm out of money. If I put subs in it would be a half ass job and if your into audio..thats like stuffing your cash down the nearest drain. Thanks for the help guys.
can you bridge the amp to two channels and feed your componets with that instead of powering the rear 6x9s? if u want to keep the 6x9s run them off the stock headunit power. secondly crossover your 6.5s around 75hz or so. this will get the deep bass notes out of your speakers allowing them to play louder before they start to distort. this will give you more power for the midbass frequencies. and most importantly for midbass install has a ton to do with the final sound. if the speaker isn't sealed to the door good youlle lose midbass, if the door isn't sealed up good yourlle lose midbass. if the speaker isnt sitting flush and the basket is tweaked a little bit that will kill your midbass. cascade audio i think it was makes deflex pads. (think dynamat does too) to put behind your midbass. this will help absorb your rear waves, get rid of standing waves and help out a bit as well. then save up for a sub and amp.
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i lack midbass in my doors too... i have em crossed over at 65hz i think and feed them about 120 rms each...
not much out of them
Bringing this back from the dead. My subs carry most of the load when it comes to the lower end of midbass (for what they are, they're extremely versatile). I'm looking for options to bring out more of the midbass to midrange area; say 150hz to about 500hz. I've already EQed the crap out of everthing. My pioneer has a 7 band EQ. It seems like the next step is really just buying better equipment. However, would sealing up the doors well benefit me at all? Are there any other fab-ups I can do to help out?
Here is my build list:
-Front custom made 6.75" mounting bracket (MDF board) with Audiobahn 6.75" components (ABC600V)
-JVC 6x9 rear fill (I know, I know...but hey isn't it mostly about front imaging anyway?)
-All run by an MB Quart Discus 4-channel amp 125W RMS X 1 @ 4ohms
-2 Audiobahn 12" subs, AW1200V (700W RMS each, DVC @ 4ohms).
-Run by Audiobahn A18001DT (1800W RMS x 1 @ 1ohm)
-Pioneer Premier head unit. USB interface.
"In Oldskool we trust"
if your doors arn't sealed up chances are you have allot of cancellation going on. when that happens allot of times it doesnt matter how much eq you throw at it, its just not going to produce midbass. seal that door up as best as you can. make sure the area around the speakers is sealed up well. see how that changes things. keep the midbass out of your subwoofer. anything above about 75h in a subwoofer starts to really muddy up the bass, it becomes allot more localized and degrades the image.
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Thanks for the intel. I'm not going to act like I know what I'm doing here, I've never actually sealed anything before. Is dynamat the best stuff to use in a door application? Also, I'm assuming the goal is just to get a decently sealed chamber behind/around the 6.5 woofer rather than mat the entire door right?
"In Oldskool we trust"
cascadeaudio.com secondskinaudio.com I wouldn't use any other products.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
Ryan Pitt wrote:I'm liking the VB-2 from cascadeaudio.com I think thinner will be the way to go with my setup. What do you think about these: http://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadening-materials/speaker-tweaker-kit.php from second skin? Seems like some bull, but do you have any experience with it?
Not bull at all!
I have the Cascade equivalent of that product. (Deflex pads), and I was able to get an extra 5watts RMS to the speakers where before I would run into loss of control (seen on oscilloscope) for those 5 watts. Yes I measured in a controlled environment with the proper equipment.
Sounds good. I'll probably hook up with a pair of them and some VB-2 then
"In Oldskool we trust"
Definitely a good choice.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
"You really need to staple your face shut"-THE Joey Baggs.
