I was wondering if this is worth purchasing for my cavalier. It prolly wouldn't happen for another year if I did buy it. I have been researching it and it seems to be a really nice kit. I just get depressed when I see 171 wheel horse. I know that it's a major upgrade for the OHV but it just doesn't seem like that much. What would that put a auto cavalier at in the quater mile just as a very rough estimate? I would like to see low 14's high 13's but I dont think I would even be close to high 14's at that rate. I mean as of right now my car has almost 89,000 miles on it. Let me know your thoughts on this.
2009 Ford Mustang V6
its only making 171 hp because its a 15g turbo and only runs like 7-8 psi... considering your motor makes less then 100whp stock... id say a 70whp gain is pretty damn good.... spending a few hundred more and upgrading to a 16g or 20g and power can go 400+
stock 2200 internals arent strong. so unless you plan on replacing them or trying to make 250+whp then that basic kit will be more then enough..
the money you would spend swapping to an eco or ld9 would cost that
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12.5@116 2.0 60ft
Just trying to think wether or not it's worth boosting a motor with atleast 100,000 miles when the time comes. I would love to make the power it's just the cost.
2009 Ford Mustang V6
Now another question is if I went with hp tuners with this setup could I possibly make more that 171 wheel horse?
2009 Ford Mustang V6
The01Cav wrote:Now another question is if I went with hp tuners with this setup could I possibly make more that 171 wheel horse?
Possibly, from what I've seen with the OHV, it's really not worth modding in my opinion. That's just my opinion. Maybe do a 2.4 or an Eco swap.
told you man do an eco swapp first, even while your doing it, header and exhaust..then you'll have an easy 150whp..then save up for the turbo kit then have 250-270whp
Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla
The 2200 kit cannot be swapped to a 16G or 20G. The flanges are different from the 15G to the others.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Quote:
Possibly, from what I've seen with the OHV, it's really not worth modding in my opinion. That's just my opinion. Maybe do a 2.4 or an Eco swap.
i know im bias but i have to disagree with you 100% there..
what is it that makes it not worth modding in your opinion? my ohv on stock bottom end and still not tuned all the way (im waiting for my new wideband sensor in the mail) its faster than a modded srt-4/took my boyfriends modded cobalt ss/sc off the line 2x ( it is a mid 13 second car on street tires with a slipping clutch - we havent run it since we put in the stage 4 clutch and lightened flywheel) /and it took a saab 93 no problem. i know it sounds like a kill list but its currently track illegal (i dont have a battery kill switch since ive relocated the battery to the rear) so i dont know whats running and im not dynoing it until i finish tuning. so thats the best i have to see where its running. i will fight this till the end lol. you say swap in an ecotec or ld9 to make power... the money you spend doing the swap it self to give you a stock motor could give you a nicely built head on your OHV to handle more boost...like i said, im bias. but what larry is looking for is 100% doable, safely on an OHV if its tuned correctly. now i could be off but id estimate im
atleast 225 whp on 9psi on a decently built head. only estimating based upon a stock motor with stock head on 10 psi is generally about 210 whp... and im factoring in what is done to the head would help it quite a bit. so it could be more.
^^^^^ your car moves pretty well if I say so myself. Your car is the reason I am still considering doing this.
2009 Ford Mustang V6
well in addition to having a strange passion for the OHV motor, another thing that sort of drives me is to prove that it can still run with the big boys
granted i still feel it has a long way to go but thats only because i want to go all out 110% with it as far as motor work goes.
if you plan on boosting your car, as long as you have it tuned properly you should be fine under 10 psi on the stock motor. some people run high boost on motors with high miles, some prefer not to. personally id give it a good tune up as well and maybe take the head off give it a new head gasket as well, and check your head/pistons at the same time. its not tooo much work if you have a good set of tools and some patience for some PITA bolts lol. and id recomend if you dont have one you get the haynes manual for all the torque specs etc. i only recomend taking a look at the head because when i took my stock head off i found that my valve seals were leaking oil by (we think, didnt care to further investigate the problem becuase im not using that head anymore). but it certainly wouldnt hurt to do those things if you have the time.
and i hope me and kav can inspire you
yeah i've done a headgasket before on my old 92 cav that I had with the 2.2, gravy job if I say so myself.
2009 Ford Mustang V6
Does the 2200 kit fit auto's and manuals?
yeah it's a auto and manual kit.
2009 Ford Mustang V6
Very interested in this post. I have come to the point finally where i am content on how the car looks but cant deal with how slow it is anymore. How much is this kit, there site says call for pricing but i dont have the time to do so, workin 14 hour days doesnt leave you much. i figure it is either goin to be turbo my car or sell it and get an ls1.
I think it was somewhere around the $3200 range.
2009 Ford Mustang V6
guys. a motor is a motor. everyone bashes the ln2 cuz they weak in stock form.. the money your going to spend on an eco or ld9 swap. u can have a forged bottom end.
and what hypsy said with the flanges being different, hes probably right since he deals with hahn direct. im sure they wouldnt have a problem for a few more bucks using a flange on that turbo mani to fit a 16/20g
it all depends on how much money u wanna spend man. 100k on it, i wouldnt really try to squeeze the nuts out of it.
if yoru serious. turbo it. enjoy the 7-8psi. and built another motor on the side. thats what i did
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12.5@116 2.0 60ft
I wont have any bottom end issues with that kind of mileage?
2009 Ford Mustang V6
Hahahaha the Ln2 weak thats funny. The Ln2 has been known to push 12+ psi daily. Remember sometimes its nopt always the motor the tune is also crucial if its spot on. It's about 75% motor 25% tune. As long as you don't skimp on the tune your fine. The 2200 is an iron block. it handles boost extremely well. Sure all the 250+ turbo 2200 are built but its fine for a budget street set-up as is.
Our weak link isn't our bottom end its how crappy our stupid head flows. That is one way to see a larger power gain buy a spare head and get it ported.
Sure you could do the eco or 2.4 swap, but boost is so much better. I can tell you right now alot of the answers you recieved very if any have a 2200. Hyspy just happens to be a distributor for hahn so hes excluded even though he drives an eco.
For some help look up post by OHV Notec or Adler and theres a few more I can't think of off the top of my head. Just do some searching for turbo 2200.
I was thinkin about a patriot head later down the road.
2009 Ford Mustang V6
I don't think they have a Patriot head for our car. I know they do for the eco. Remember most companies don't make much for our cars.
yes they do make a patriot head for our cars. i know the have one that uses stock valvetrain although i think they have a stage 2 head as well? i forget... and even though our motors have less available for them, if you know where to look theres plenty out there.
Interesting I'll have to look into it. Personally it would be cheaper just to go get the head hot tanked and then some porting and you'll see a substantial flow increase.
Theres not plenty out there, its more along the lines of the just right amount. If there was plenty out there would be a whole lot more cavys than we see now. I'm hooked on the OHV so its going to stay my powerplant of choice for awhile.
there is substantially less out there for the 2200, but like i said if you dont mind spending a lil extra time to find it, there is quite a bit you'll find. And many places also sell parts for our cars just dont carry them in stock so you'll find some items require a few week wait, as they often have to custom make them per order..
Yes the OHV deffinatly needs to be opened up in the head, a good port job is a great way to start. Also wouldnt hurt to put some howell pushrods in there. i mean 80$ for a full set it and they will handle alot more than the stockers. reduce the likely hood of the push rod bending or breaking by a huge amount. and they are easy as hell to swap out
Larry - if you end up doing forged internals and building your motor and you need help finding something, you know how to reach me... I have a few sites that cover every component of our motor from the head and block. The lifters are the only thing ive found that
most places only sell stock replacements... as far as that goes your best bet would be the LT1 spring swap. i plan on doing that pretty soon..
why use the patriout head i did a port and polish and im flowing just 10cfm under the patriout head .... and that was a quick pnp ..... i know i can get more outa it ...... also if ya do a pnp and get the springs from a ls1 with some stainless valves youl b set ......
