What would hapen if I drove my car without a boost controller, ie bov, wastegate? I have read that its not recomended but what specifically would happen?
I wouldn't be racing it, but just commuting at low rpm's till I could get one.
Sorry if my terminology isn't good, I am new to cars.
So you have a turbo, but no wastegate or bov?
Without a wastegate there is no way to regulate boost. The boost would just keep building and building, meaning it would all go till something gave, I'm guessing the engine would probably say "Phuck it, I'm out" somewhere around 19psi or so sustained. But that's just a guess. It's not a very good idea, do yourself a favor and leave it parked until you have ALL of your parts necessary.
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4 Cams...32 Valves...5 Liters...This Could Get Fun!
^^^^^^^^agreed
The wastegate regulates your "boost" level be only allowing enough exhaust gas to pass through the turbine housing, and spin the turbine wheel, to drive the compressor wheel at a speed that will produce the desired "boost". If that sentence makes any sense.
Do always wonder what my turbo would be capable of producing if it was unregulated.
If you dont at least have a wastegate and you have the turbo installed, just park the car and leave it alone until you have ALL the parts.
I have an '89 Sunbird turbo and I am sure that my wastegate is not functioning. Its no longer spring loaded, so I am assuming its letting too much exhaust pass by the turbine, thus giving me very little power. Very frusterating as I can't safely merge onto highways.
Tomorrow I am going to inspect the wastegate to see if its repairable. If not I was going to "plug" the wastegate and eventually get a external controller when I figure out how to make an effective one. But if this wait will instantly wreck my engine, I will just live with no power till I can get a controller.
yeah more then likely you will cause major major major damage the first time you really get on the gas.
think about it... air goes in the engine, exhaust pushes the turbo which makes more air get sucked into the engine and more exhaust to push the turbo even more to suck more air into the engine and push more exhaust out pushing the turbo even harder... its a continuous cycle, it will build more and more boost until either the car goes rediculously lean and you blow a motor, or the air gets so hot it detonates like crazy and blows a motor, or theres to much cylinder pressure in the cylinders for the mechanical parts to physically be able to withstand the abuse and the motor lets go, or the turbo way over revs and pretty much kills itself which results in 2 things... the car burning oil fast enough to kill a motor if you keep driving while laying a thick smoke screen out the back, or metal pieces making its way through the oil into the motor, etc. etc. etc.
Either way, there are lots of things that can go wrong but no matter what the end result WILL BE severe, major, expensive damage.
Dan S wrote:What would hapen if I drove my car without a boost controller, ie bov, wastegate? I have read that its not recomended but what specifically would happen?
I wouldn't be racing it, but just commuting at low rpm's till I could get one.
Sorry if my terminology isn't good, I am new to cars.
Do you not have a waste gate (i.e. external) Or do you have a internally gated turbo with an actuator?
If you have a internal gate then boost pressure will just default to whatever the actuator is set to you and will be fine, no need for a boost controller. But you need to know what the actuator is set to and be sure you have all the proper supporting modifications to tune fuel and a way to guage and log it, i.e. (HPtuners and a Wideband)
If you have an external wastegate setup and like Skunk and others said above, assuming your manifold is capped where the external waste gate should go your turbo will just continue to build boost until you have an excessive lean condition and excessive knock in the engine.
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Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Downpipe w/ Cutout | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |
Well I removed my turbo and its seized and there are fractures around the internal wastegate. I guess thats why I have no power. I will probably go to a wrecker and get a stock N/A setup since I can't afford to fix my turbo
Does anyone know why my intake manifold pressure would equalize under acceleration if my turbo isnt spinning? I thought that vacuum would increase.
As you accelerate vacuum decreases because manifold pressure is moving towards atmospheric pressure (1 bar) That is completely normal. I would see if you can find another turbo in a junkyard, then if your serious about moding the car plan out getting another one rebuilt.
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Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Downpipe w/ Cutout | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |
when an engine runs, on the intake stroke the intake valve opens and the piston is moving downwards which makes it suck air from the manifold into the cylinder. When the throttle is closed and the engine is sucking air it creates negative pressure in the manifold, its trying to suck air that isn't there (the idle air control lets enough air bypass the throttle to let the engine idle steadily) but it casues vacum in the manifold. When your at wide open throttle your letting air flow intake the manifold as much as it can, becasue your leting air in there is no negative pressure so you lose vacum (gauge reads 0)
Thats normal, its how its surpossed to work.
That makes sense. I thought that as the engine is at higher rpm and sucking more air, that the vacuum would increase. But that air has to come from somewhere.
I found a '90 sunbird 2.0t at a local wrecker and pulled the seized turbo from it. Can I rebuild it, or will it likely need to be machined? Assuming the only thing wrong with it is that the bearing is seized.
And will it fit my '89 sunbird 2.0t? I noticed some differences, like the piping to the air cleaner and an adjustable wastegate, but it looked the same for the most part.
