Well Im new to boost so I appreciate all the help.
Im oiled cooled only so the first mod Im looking to do for now is a turbo timer. I try not to boost before I get close to my destination.
I did some research and Im leaning towards a Greddy/trust full auto turbo timer. I just wanted to hear a few opinions and suggestions on the subject.
GMR has got nothing on this
Honestly, if you don't boost within a couple mins before you key off, your good. Most people get turbo timers for the "show" factor.
Wagonwes wrote:Honestly, if you don't boost within a couple mins before you key off, your good. Most people get turbo timers for the "show" factor.
NO youre not, and its not for SHOW factor. its to cool the oil so it doesnt do damage to the bearings. Oil cooled is not even close to as good as oil/coolant cooled when it comes to how soon you can shut it off. Oil cooled needs time to circulate to cool it all down. The hot oil is still circulating through the heat of say 2000rpms in the motor, and last i checked, my motor idles at about 900. there is a significant temp difference in 1100rpm on my car. whether im boosting or not.
Get the greddy turbo timer, there is a REALLY good writeup on here too with all the info you need. I let mine run for 2:30 right now and will never let it run for less than that.
DOHC_tuner wrote:Well Im new to boost so I appreciate all the help.
Im oiled cooled only so the first mod Im looking to do for now is a turbo timer. I try not to boost before I get close to my destination.
I did some research and Im leaning towards a Greddy/trust full auto turbo timer. I just wanted to hear a few opinions and suggestions on the subject.
Many advancements have occurred in recent years relative to the technologies involved in this subject. Oil coking is the key, an undesirable effect that occurs when oil is subject to such high temperatures that it crystallizes and forms an actual abrasive substance that can be very injiuious to bearings, etc.
Modern turbochargers are much more resistant to coking-style damage then their predecessors. Material selection and overall tolerances have improved markedly, as have cooling design abilities. Simultaneously, the resistance of modern oils (see below) to high-temperature coking damage has also increased tremendously. Modern formulations are chemically superior to the coking-prone oils of the past.
Add it all up, and there's never been less of an argument for turbo timers than there is today. In our experience, attention to good oil quality and reasonable practices precludes any need for them.
OIL TYPES: We have found that some smaller brands of synthetics contain compounds that are more prone to coking than the major brands. We advise users of our tubosystems only use oils approved by GM, or simply stick to the major manufacturers, i.e.: Valvoline, Kendall, Castrol, Pennzoil, and the like. The smaller synthetic brands tend to be long on marketing, but shorter on results. Stick with a winner...you'll usually pay little if any more, and you'll get a consistent, high-quality product. The term "snake oil" has never been more prophetic!
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:DOHC_tuner wrote:Well Im new to boost so I appreciate all the help.
Im oiled cooled only so the first mod Im looking to do for now is a turbo timer. I try not to boost before I get close to my destination.
I did some research and Im leaning towards a Greddy/trust full auto turbo timer. I just wanted to hear a few opinions and suggestions on the subject.
Many advancements have occurred in recent years relative to the technologies involved in this subject. Oil coking is the key, an undesirable effect that occurs when oil is subject to such high temperatures that it crystallizes and forms an actual abrasive substance that can be very injiuious to bearings, etc.
Modern turbochargers are much more resistant to coking-style damage then their predecessors. Material selection and overall tolerances have improved markedly, as have cooling design abilities. Simultaneously, the resistance of modern oils (see below) to high-temperature coking damage has also increased tremendously. Modern formulations are chemically superior to the coking-prone oils of the past.
Add it all up, and there's never been less of an argument for turbo timers than there is today. In our experience, attention to good oil quality and reasonable practices precludes any need for them.
OIL TYPES: We have found that some smaller brands of synthetics contain compounds that are more prone to coking than the major brands. We advise users of our tubosystems only use oils approved by GM, or simply stick to the major manufacturers, i.e.: Valvoline, Kendall, Castrol, Pennzoil, and the like. The smaller synthetic brands tend to be long on marketing, but shorter on results. Stick with a winner...you'll usually pay little if any more, and you'll get a consistent, high-quality product. The term "snake oil" has never been more prophetic!
I was told it's been running on MOBILE 1. However I've been really considering of utilizing Royal Purple. I used it on my N/A built engine.
GMR has got nothing on this
Dont use royal purple, it cant take the heat, i found that out the hard way. i have been using mobil 1 since before i switched and was told only to run mobil 1 on this built motor with a turbo. probably will never switch.... ever.
DOHC_tuner wrote:Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:DOHC_tuner wrote:Well Im new to boost so I appreciate all the help.
Im oiled cooled only so the first mod Im looking to do for now is a turbo timer. I try not to boost before I get close to my destination.
I did some research and Im leaning towards a Greddy/trust full auto turbo timer. I just wanted to hear a few opinions and suggestions on the subject.
Many advancements have occurred in recent years relative to the technologies involved in this subject. Oil coking is the key, an undesirable effect that occurs when oil is subject to such high temperatures that it crystallizes and forms an actual abrasive substance that can be very injiuious to bearings, etc.
Modern turbochargers are much more resistant to coking-style damage then their predecessors. Material selection and overall tolerances have improved markedly, as have cooling design abilities. Simultaneously, the resistance of modern oils (see below) to high-temperature coking damage has also increased tremendously. Modern formulations are chemically superior to the coking-prone oils of the past.
Add it all up, and there's never been less of an argument for turbo timers than there is today. In our experience, attention to good oil quality and reasonable practices precludes any need for them.
OIL TYPES: We have found that some smaller brands of synthetics contain compounds that are more prone to coking than the major brands. We advise users of our tubosystems only use oils approved by GM, or simply stick to the major manufacturers, i.e.: Valvoline, Kendall, Castrol, Pennzoil, and the like. The smaller synthetic brands tend to be long on marketing, but shorter on results. Stick with a winner...you'll usually pay little if any more, and you'll get a consistent, high-quality product. The term "snake oil" has never been more prophetic!
I was told it's been running on MOBILE 1. However I've been really considering of utilizing Royal Purple. I used it on my N/A built engine.
Mobil 1 is used by GM in its cars. The other is not. Choose wisely
Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft
World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com
get the with built in turbo timer hate to see car on and that sweet red candy get taken cant wait till we do mine
*****BLAME IT ON THE ALCOHOL*****
my cpu left some words out i meant to say get the alarm with the built in turbo timer / i would hate to see some thing happen to that sweet red candy(his car he his talking about) / cant wait till we do mine (install my turbo he is helping me)
*****BLAME IT ON THE ALCOHOL*****
I learned the hard way..was only letting mine cool for about a min everytime even long drives and blew my turbo because of it :/
13.1 @ 115
Wagonwes wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:Wagonwes wrote:Honestly, if you don't boost within a couple mins (2:00) before you key off, your good. Most people get turbo timers for the "show" factor.
NO youre not, and its not for SHOW factor. its to cool the oil so it doesnt do damage to the bearings. Oil cooled is not even close to as good as oil/coolant cooled when it comes to how soon you can shut it off. Oil cooled needs time to circulate to cool it all down. The hot oil is still circulating through the heat of say 2000rpms in the motor, and last i checked, my motor idles at about 900. there is a significant temp difference in 1100rpm on my car. whether im boosting or not.
Get the greddy turbo timer, there is a REALLY good writeup on here too with all the info you need. I let mine run for 2:30 right now and will never let it run for less than that.
Hmmmmm.
Mechanical Engineer, eh? Someone nees to take your degree away....
"You can only feed them semen for so long before their legs fall off."
Wagonwes wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:Wagonwes wrote:Honestly, if you don't boost within a couple mins (2:00) before you key off, your good. Most people get turbo timers for the "show" factor.
NO youre not, and its not for SHOW factor. its to cool the oil so it doesnt do damage to the bearings. Oil cooled is not even close to as good as oil/coolant cooled when it comes to how soon you can shut it off. Oil cooled needs time to circulate to cool it all down. The hot oil is still circulating through the heat of say 2000rpms in the motor, and last i checked, my motor idles at about 900. there is a significant temp difference in 1100rpm on my car. whether im boosting or not.
Get the greddy turbo timer, there is a REALLY good writeup on here too with all the info you need. I let mine run for 2:30 right now and will never let it run for less than that.
Hmmmmm.
and to answer your hmmmm(again)... driving at 2000-2200rpm given the speed limit, creates more heat than idling at 900rpm.... so you do your cruise and cool theory, and ill do it the correct way and let my turbo live a longer happier life! deal?
so all are turbo timers the same there is a garret on craigs in my city for 75obo
*****BLAME IT ON THE ALCOHOL*****
Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:DOHC_tuner wrote:Well Im new to boost so I appreciate all the help.
Im oiled cooled only so the first mod Im looking to do for now is a turbo timer. I try not to boost before I get close to my destination.
I did some research and Im leaning towards a Greddy/trust full auto turbo timer. I just wanted to hear a few opinions and suggestions on the subject.
Many advancements have occurred in recent years relative to the technologies involved in this subject. Oil coking is the key, an undesirable effect that occurs when oil is subject to such high temperatures that it crystallizes and forms an actual abrasive substance that can be very injiuious to bearings, etc.
Modern turbochargers are much more resistant to coking-style damage then their predecessors. Material selection and overall tolerances have improved markedly, as have cooling design abilities. Simultaneously, the resistance of modern oils (see below) to high-temperature coking damage has also increased tremendously. Modern formulations are chemically superior to the coking-prone oils of the past.
Add it all up, and there's never been less of an argument for turbo timers than there is today. In our experience, attention to good oil quality and reasonable practices precludes any need for them.
OIL TYPES: We have found that some smaller brands of synthetics contain compounds that are more prone to coking than the major brands. We advise users of our tubosystems only use oils approved by GM, or simply stick to the major manufacturers, i.e.: Valvoline, Kendall, Castrol, Pennzoil, and the like. The smaller synthetic brands tend to be long on marketing, but shorter on results. Stick with a winner...you'll usually pay little if any more, and you'll get a consistent, high-quality product. The term "snake oil" has never been more prophetic!
Yea, this Bill Hahn guy knows NOTHING about turbos or the like. Oh wait.........
And I take it you guys have never heard of Corky Bell or read his famous book either...
Senorguitar wrote:Wagonwes wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:Wagonwes wrote:Honestly, if you don't boost within a couple mins (2:00) before you key off, your good. Most people get turbo timers for the "show" factor.
NO youre not, and its not for SHOW factor. its to cool the oil so it doesnt do damage to the bearings. Oil cooled is not even close to as good as oil/coolant cooled when it comes to how soon you can shut it off. Oil cooled needs time to circulate to cool it all down. The hot oil is still circulating through the heat of say 2000rpms in the motor, and last i checked, my motor idles at about 900. there is a significant temp difference in 1100rpm on my car. whether im boosting or not.
Get the greddy turbo timer, there is a REALLY good writeup on here too with all the info you need. I let mine run for 2:30 right now and will never let it run for less than that.
Hmmmmm.
Mechanical Engineer, eh? Someone nees to take your degree away....
Yes sir, sounds like you could use some refreshers.
Yeah yeah... Anyway.
I have a Viper 791 remote start/alarm combo on my car..
It has a built in turbo timer. Hold the 2 buttons on the remote & it will shut the car off by itself, while also maintaining the security of locked doors & alarm.
I thought about getting an alarm, then i realized i had full coverage and could benefit if the car was stolen
plus if they want it bad enough, an alarm wont stop them.
^^lol nobody wants a cavalier, let alone steal one
USACi =>146.9db
14.88 @ 90.73MPH =>GM Charger, Motor Mounts, Catback exhaust
well after doing some reading and talking to some other boosted folks around my area....whether its a "gimic" or not i can justify the 100 turbo timer for extra insurance
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
Thanks for the link builtnboosted.
John let me know when.
However I do have a odd and maybe dumb question. The Cavalier has push start....so will I have issues?
GMR has got nothing on this
The tubo on my Talon was oil cooled only. I had my timer set to 3:30, and was also using an external oil cooler with its own electric fan.
I personally wouldnt own a turbo vehicle with a turbo timer. I used to sit in my car for a couple minutesbefore shutting it off before I got the timer.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
