My setup on a lsj turbo
RIP Cpl Derek Kerns And Cpl Robby Reyes
24th MEU VMM-261 (REIN) V22 Crewchiefs
11 April 2012 Morocco (African Lion)
I have been reading through this I have one question. On ecotecs say you were to do what JUCNBST did, where he rebaffled the valve cover.
Specifically he removed a piece that seperates the area that gets vacuum from the port on the cylinder head.
Here's a pic:
Once that piece is removed that area doesn't need to have the port on the head to have vacuum, right? It will draw it from the regular PCV.
Why don't we just run a s set up that draws from the valve covers and connects to the header ? That way the exhaust passing by creates a vacuum pull that will draw the positive pressure out and of course a seporater with a drain back to oil pan?
I Love My J ♡
That way does work as well. I know of one person that has done it on here. Newt. Although I recall he had a issue with it last year. I think.
Otherwise its very basic....
Nipple......to catch can........to intake tube.
Most cars on here need nothing more then that.
Because it'll clog your cat, run exhaust into the motor, and screw your 02 sensor readings.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Here is what I did tonight. Simple and effective. Oil cap adaptor plumbed to the stock line plumbed to the intake tube. no catch can yet, but I'll find one.
Also here is a bit of my conversation with Brandon Fetter about the situation. Im in blue his is in black.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=290997334445
there ya go
Ever see one for a bigger an?
nope...only -10s...i wanted a 12 but couldnt find one
Ah I already have 2 fittings on the front so I was curious in case I needed more
nope i only have that one on front and the stock location on back...plumbed to the intake...should be fine....especially with a turbo
I'm running to atmosphere
i want to...but people said its not advised...
just to a breathered catch can?
Yeah just like the Hondas
Look at the gm cars they don't run PVC threw the head
the race cars you mean?
i know the eco system is screwey
Yeah
you building your can or buying?
It's already built
pics? wanna make another? lol
i was venting too before i got the cap adaptor...had a breather on the oil cap was spraying oil everywhere once it was saturated with oil
The crankcase is open to the timing chain housing which runs to the valve cover so if you vent the valve cover you are venting any positive pressure in the crankcase so what is the PVC valve going to do more than that
mind if i post this on the org?
I don't care, that is how I take it.
ok...there is also another option, google metco motorsports
thats the can with the drop in filter?
Yeah
gorgeous brandon. wanna make me one to match my tank? lol
how much to make me one?
I'm not sure honestly when I could do it
got an old one laying around? lol...i need to find a good design for not 600 bucks
No unfortunately
no worries
I mean my theory makes sense right
yeah..ive always said that anyways....well that vented was better. but some people on the org just refuse to accept it...otherwise on a boosted motor, you will boost the crankcase
Pressure will always go to the path of least resistance
yeah but also, i have the AEM intake, if i plumb into that, IF IF IF something should happen, and for somereason pressure is built, it SHOULD be great enough to exit the filtered end of the intake...no?
That I do not know, I think you need to run lots of boost
Anyone that is saying it doesn't work even log pressure in the crankcase?
Easiest way hook a boost gauge up to the motor and see if it ls building pressure
yeah that makes sense
Honda tech knows more about technical stuff like this. They big boys log crankcase pressure
hmm
But they are also are running 40-50lbs
yeah my measly 10-12 means nothing...lol....
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The reasoning is not that it "wont" work.
My thoughts on it are:
Its that there is no vacuum. The pressure will release, but with a vacuum its pulling as much as it can out. With a vented can. The vacuum is reduced.
Most of my reading has been done on CSS and talks with Powell.
Venting to atmosphere definitely makes sense on paper. I know I sound like a broken record but all I can say is that my motor burned oil being set up thay way. It would burn a noticeable amount of oil even after a few hard pulls. That tells me that something was wrong.
Literally all I did was run a hose from the stock barb to the intake pre-tb and haven't burned a drop in thousands of miles. Doesn't matter to me what anyone else says even if they have all the data in the world to prove they're right; that's all the evidence I need to know whats best for my motor and likely most others like it.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Y3llowCav wrote:Venting to atmosphere definitely makes sense on paper. I know I sound like a broken record but all I can say is that my motor burned oil being set up thay way. It would burn a noticeable amount of oil even after a few hard pulls. That tells me that something was wrong.
Literally all I did was run a hose from the stock barb to the intake pre-tb and haven't burned a drop in thousands of miles. Doesn't matter to me what anyone else says even if they have all the data in the world to prove they're right; that's all the evidence I need to know whats best for my motor and likely most others like it.
When you were venting, were you still attached to a vac source? I agree that with the filter on the oil cap, I was "burning" oil too. I say it like that because it wasnt burning, it was dissapating in the atmosphere because it had nothing pulling it to a certain area. I think with a filtered can, attached to the intake, enough air will be pulled through the can, that oil shoudnt vanish, it should collect. And as long as its collecting and I know why and where it is where it is, then I wouldnt be worried. Id just check my oil bi weekly, drain the can if needed, add oil if needed, and change my filter only at 3k miles since Id probably be adding 3-4 fresh quarts in that time span anyways due to it collecting in the can.
Just for because, I'll tell you guys this. My dads built 400 bored .060 over uses a qt a week. He daily drives it. It has a properly hooked up PCV system. It doesn't blow smoke or anything, its just such hi compression that it combusts the oil. He adds a qt every Monday morning, Filter is high in the bay, so we just change the filter every 3k and call it a day.
EvoFire wrote:[quote=Y3llowCav
He daily drives it. It has a properly hooked up PCV system. It doesn't blow smoke or anything, its just such hi compression that it combusts the oil. He adds a qt every Monday morning, Filter is high in the bay, so we just change the filter every 3k and call it a day.
Explain this...
How does high compression combust the oil??
Philly D wrote:EvoFire wrote:[quote=Y3llowCav
He daily drives it. It has a properly hooked up PCV system. It doesn't blow smoke or anything, its just such hi compression that it combusts the oil. He adds a qt every Monday morning, Filter is high in the bay, so we just change the filter every 3k and call it a day.
Explain this...
How does high compression combust the oil??
That's how a turbo diesel works. The Dodge Cummins is a Turbo Diesel, and my brother has one. The engine has glow plugs that heat the cylinders to a very high temperature (heat) that combined with the high compression ratio (pressure), combusts (ignites) the fuel. Diesel is more of an oil than a gasoline. My brother also has an L-tank in the bed and he runs about 25/75 mix. 25% Diesel Fuel, and 75% Filtered Recycled Oil.
That's the gist of it.
Did you say my car looks slow??
Im planing to go with this catch can option .. Currently running boost with stock manifold and wanna make sure if this is the best option to go with or if i need anything else.
So basically i just block the vac of port 3 from head and manifold.. Add a fitting to the a/o separator and follow the image ?
Do i have to add any other vent port ?
Thanks
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- image.jpg (83k)
Pollo - no that picture should do it for a simpler system. I did the dual system to provide vaccum under boost but on 3 high boost engines it has only become "required" at about 19-20 psi. If you plan to run a reasonable boost level then you can follow that diagram and all will be well.
I should update that post, I've learned a bit more and also learned a lot on catch can design.... your PCV system really is only as effective as the catch can you're using.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
The text in the picture above confuses me.
Run how pictured but "with out" a catch can?
Or
Run how pictured but connect the yellow to the green and block the air/oil separator plastic thing on the front of the block and delete the red line???
Option 2 sounds too easy. Like something is missing.
GMR has got nothing on this
Deleting(or bypassing) the factory air/oil separater isn't the end of the world if you plan to run a decent catch can.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Well the first option description confuses me. It states run how pictured...which shows a catch can, but states w/o a catch can? Is that a typo?
And where can I get those Viton seal check valves?
GMR has got nothing on this
Lets see if I learned anything after reading all 12pages...
I have an ecotec 2.2 with a saab turbo, seems to me The best choice would be using an LSJ gasket to block off pcv port on the head, then plumb valve cover nipple to catch can to turbine. There is an inlet (intake) and outlet (valve cover nipple). Blocking the pcv valve on head with LSJ gasket will solve boost pressure from going into crankcase. I wonder if i can plumb a fitting on top of oil cap that connects to intake manifold with a checkvalve in between as an inlet vacuum source..
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