WOW. u will be hearing from me when i get money.
 
 
come on, lets see a full-bodied 10 second J 
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said 
 
 
now is this a stock motor internally?
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Damn, huge congrats
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
 
ok... thanks for the info
how much power do you think you could push through this motor?
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what fuel mods do you have / stock internals ?
 
SWEET job bill & adam 
pin the wastegate closed and go for broke , LOL that should put it in the 10's atleast once 
micheal , read what bill wrote , the motor has had some work done to it 
 
 
 
fuel mods would be what the stage 2 kit comes with, injectors, booster pump, and fmu as far as I know
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NIce times Bill and Adam.... now I have an odd ball question..... 
Why would you be changing the valve springs to something stiffer when your not reving any higher than what stock RPM would be and you are still running sotck cams from what I believe? 
 
 
I emailed you a month or two ago asking for a Super20G setup, you never emailed back. I guess you were never serious.
 
karo - my guess is due to the amount of boost , and how fast the motor is reving while under boost is why the heavier springs 
phil - their car has the port fueler on it , so it has 8 injectors total 
 
 
 
gmfreak wrote:I emailed you a month or two ago asking for a Super20G setup, you never emailed back. I guess you were never serious.
If I were you I'd def give HAHN another chance. They are the only company out there producing Jbody turbo kits and proving their worth through dyno sheets and fantastic track times.
 
 
Hey Karo,
 You install stiffer valve springs because of higher boost levels tend to have the air pressure push down on the actual valve (when its closed) along with the piston chamber's vacuum.
 High mechanical lift on what a huge lift camshaft causes valves to float because the spring cannot keep up solid difference when it cycles at a high rate. 
My buddy dyno 476HP on his turbo stock LS1, changed the valve springs only, dynoed 492HP.  
He used the Comp Cam behive design stock replacement style, great  stiff valve spring, but not to harsh to ruin lifters and then eventually cam lobes. 
Lifters are a bitch to change out on a LS1, you have to take off the heads.
 
how mcuh power do you think you could run through that motor?
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Bill Hahn Jr. wrote:Karo (Car Customs) wrote:NIce times Bill and Adam.... now I have an odd ball question..... 
Why would you be changing the valve springs to something stiffer when your not reving any higher than what stock RPM would be and you are still running sotck cams from what I believe?
97Cavie nailed it.  We found that at higher boost pressures, the stock springs could not keep the valves closed at high RPM, even with stock cams.  It has to do with the area on the back of the valve being affected by boost and turbine pressures.  With Ecotec springs only having about 50 pounds of force on the seat, when you do the math of the area on the backside of the valve versus 20+ PSI, you can see there is a sharp reduction in effective spring pressure.
Bill, 
You are running the single spring which is stiffer correct? The Russ / Ray special? 

 Or did you go with the dual valve springs with the new Ti retainers and new valve spring seats as well? 
 
 
I cant wait for my built motor
I think according to gm the stock crank and sleeves are good till almost 700 whp, no? I need to go find thata rticle
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