awesome.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Heck yea!
"Thank you little roots; Stay strong." Chris Farley
Not sure if this has been asked, but will the distance of the shift be similar to a B&M or even lesser?
why don't you see for yourself
the throw seems a bit shorter than the B&M, but with the high height on the prototype the effort is similar to stock. I have yet to size that side of the stick just yet (especially since I'll be most likely using a slightly thicker base as per my comments in the video).
this fits completely under the stock console.
PJ I noticed the shifter cables moving is actually a bunch of that side to side play. I dont think you'll be able to get rid of all of that since its due to the cables and not the shifter. WAY better than the stocker, your stick doesnt flex.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
I want!! NOW!!
Prototype looks great! I'm excited to see this progressing along so well! Keep it up!
Leafy wrote:PJ I noticed the shifter cables moving is actually a bunch of that side to side play. I dont think you'll be able to get rid of all of that since its due to the cables and not the shifter. WAY better than the stocker, your stick doesnt flex.
actually i disagree, however without seeing it in my hands pj will have to say, but if you look at all the shaft play in the upper cage, thats where its at. if he gets the rod in there tighter and uses the bearings to shift it then they will be way tighter of a shift.
watch the shifter cables from like 2:50 to 3:10.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy wrote:PJ I noticed the shifter cables moving is actually a bunch of that side to side play. I dont think you'll be able to get rid of all of that since its due to the cables and not the shifter. WAY better than the stocker, your stick doesnt flex.
after messing with it a bit there is a certain amount of side to side play that will never be eliminated because of the cable yes, but a lot of the play my shifter has is because that stick isn't tight in the cage. It should improve a lot once I get the right size shaft in there.. should reduce the side to side play at least by half.
Jebus that is awesome PJ... I might grab one and try to make it work on my Isuzu...
Great work.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
an isuzu version is very much a possibility.
I got pics of an isuzu shifter, footprint is the same so the only thing I'd have to change around is the side arm... the getrag is toward is push, away is pull.
the sidearm for the isuzu is the opposite... toward is pull, away is push
the other thing I'm a bit worried about is fitment under the 95-99 console... I'm gonna see if I can find a local or someone who is willing to work with me with fitment. But the mechanism will work, only thing I'd have to change around is the sidearm. The other difference is where the cable is mounted.. the getrag cables are relatively together, the isuzu cables are staggered an inch or so.
cut a new shaft that fits tight inbetween the bearings, cut shorter than the original shaft I had in it.
the knob is closer to B&M/ short throw height now. it feels so good.. fore and aft is nice and tight and responsive. the side to side play is less than original, but unfortunately with the cable the way it is I don't think I'll be able to 100% completely eliminate it... but that isn't going to stop me from trying.
30 days of testing starts tonight.
This really is great news.sounds like they're be ready just in time for my birthday.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
im excited for it pj and i cant even use it!
happy to see new things in the J world!
keep it up man!
I like it!
Just to add, my B&M for my isuzu is crazy sloppy, but its my DD...
On my Getrag trans car, the B&M is very tight, no slop at all, goes into gear extremely smoothly, perhaps I am lucky.
I don't know if its because mine is old, or lack of grease or what, but I thought my DNA (B&M ripoff) didn't have the right size ball socket on it.
once I checked the B&M in the skwirl (keep in mind, its 6 years old) it had the same play in it. This pissed me off, because it interfered with shifting into first to an extent (perhaps compounding the already difficult to get into first gear of the getrag).
I'll make a video demonstrating once I'm done revising the prototype. It works pretty damn good, but still is far from perfect.
Looks great, only problem i can see with it is the bolt you have coming out to actuate the side to side cable seems small, if you plan on keeping it that size i would not make it grade 8. as grade 8 bolts do not have good shear strenght. Grade 5 would work far better as it has twice the shear strenght of grade 8.
Oh and btw..........FREAKIN POWERSHIFT!!!!!!
*Hums fiddy cent*
"PJ's got the magic stick."
Bang on it PJ, try and break it, so when you realize its un-breakable you can sell us all one in 30 days.
I wonder if I can make it fit my HHR....
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- Enforcer wrote:I wonder if I can make it fit my HHR....
LMAO pj's going to become a millionaire... just gotta get the balt/g5 and sky/solstice crews in and the cash flow be rollin'
couple things... i like an actual "short" shifter, would cutting it down render what you've done pointless?
can we use the B&M unit in this? or is it a strickly skwirl fab only option?
Underdog Racing
z yaaaa wrote:-MD- Enforcer wrote:I wonder if I can make it fit my HHR....
LMAO pj's going to become a millionaire... just gotta get the balt/g5 and sky/solstice crews in and the cash flow be rollin'
couple things... i like an actual "short" shifter, would cutting it down render what you've done pointless?
can we use the B&M unit in this? or is it a strickly skwirl fab only option?
You mean balt/g5/hhr/ion... lol
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
If you watch the vid, its already a shorter throw than stock. And the shaft can be cut down but might interfere with the console.
And what you mean use the b&m "unit"? The shift knob?
altering the height above the pivot point doesn't do anything to alter the throw.
All the magic to changing the throw happens below the pivot. Move the pivot up and your throw shortens because distance travelled above the pivot translates to greater movement below the pivot... think of simple machines when you were a kid, its like a lever. By moving the pivot closer to where your moving, you don't have to move it as far to get the other side to travel the same distance.
effort increases when you do this however, so then you can increase the height in order to compensate... but most people like slightly higher effort shifters anyway.
the way the stick was in the video, effort was akin to stock but the throw was shorter than a B&M. It also has a very nice SOLID feel when it engages a gear.. ignoring the side to side play (which is an annoyance more than anything.. it isn't really detrimental while you're shifting), the fore and aft movement feels extremely good.
the way it is now (stick height is 1-1/2" shorter), effort is slightly higher, but it looks a bit better (LOOKS like a short throw), but the throw is still the same... shorter than B&M.
wait, if you shorten the height from the pivot point to the shift knob you shorten the distance your hand has to move (but the angle stays the same), doesn't that mean the throw is shorter? or is the throw not how far your hand moves?
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer