Hey all, sorry to bring this up as I'm sure it's come up a thousand times. I'm new to the forum. I have an 02 LS Coupe and I'm looking into a short shifter. I've seen the cheap ones on ebay for about $50 but I've seen the B&M too for like $140. Anyone have an comments about these? I'm kinda tight on money but I don't wanna put junk in my car especially when it comes to the tranny.

The B&M has been discontinued.




its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa

i have an ebay short shifter, i like it, its not perfect, but for 40 bucks there worth it, heres the one i have

ebay shifter

How much shorter does it actually make the throw? And how long have you had it?

-Yes i know the b&m has been discontinued but they are available on ebay.

it shortened it quite a bit, and ive had it since october, mind you, a B&M shifter is a whole lot better, but like i said for the 40 bucks it'll cost, it seemed worth it to me

Question about the short throw shifter.... What is the purpose of it? On my old cavalier I shifted too fast and wore out my syncronizers.. Wouldn't this do the same thing? Not trying to be a smart a**, I was just curious. I have never gotten one because I was affraid that I would screw up the syncros.

It allows you to change gears quicker. Less distance required to move the shifter.

If you are blowing sycros, it isnt the shifter, it is you.




its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa

Tinkles wrote:It allows you to change gears quicker. Less distance required to move the shifter.

If you are blowing sycros, it isnt the shifter, it is you.

X2 on both points.



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maybe I was granny shifting and double clutching lol

You dont double clutch a synchronized transmission...




its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa

this forum = boners LMAO

I've had the B&M

I've had the B&M knock off

B&M was better, had all the parts you needed to install.
the ebay knock off was ok, came with no knob, but the quality was a bit less.

both shifters are sloppy in the plastic frame, and have a lot of play even when you're in gear.
my ebay knock off I had to SLAM into reverse in order to get it to go in.. this was after adjusting the cables several times, never had this issue with my B&M for whatever reason.

(shameless plug)
when I found out the B&M was discon'd I designed my own shifter. thread about it is in this forum. its going to be a tiny bit more expensive than the B&M, but you get a lot more for your money.
(/shameless plug)

DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:I've had the B&M

I've had the B&M knock off

B&M was better, had all the parts you needed to install.
the ebay knock off was ok, came with no knob, but the quality was a bit less.

both shifters are sloppy in the plastic frame, and have a lot of play even when you're in gear.
my ebay knock off I had to SLAM into reverse in order to get it to go in.. this was after adjusting the cables several times, never had this issue with my B&M for whatever reason.

(shameless plug)
when I found out the B&M was discon'd I designed my own shifter. thread about it is in this forum. its going to be a tiny bit more expensive than the B&M, but you get a lot more for your money.
(/shameless plug)

I'm just waiting for when PJ starts selling these shifters. I'll be putting my B&M for sale after I install the new best thing.

PJ, what you planning to call your new shifter design?





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NCR-SCCA

Chelotus Cav wrote:

DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) v2.0 wrote:I've had the B&M

I've had the B&M knock off

B&M was better, had all the parts you needed to install.
the ebay knock off was ok, came with no knob, but the quality was a bit less.

both shifters are sloppy in the plastic frame, and have a lot of play even when you're in gear.
my ebay knock off I had to SLAM into reverse in order to get it to go in.. this was after adjusting the cables several times, never had this issue with my B&M for whatever reason.

(shameless plug)
when I found out the B&M was discon'd I designed my own shifter. thread about it is in this forum. its going to be a tiny bit more expensive than the B&M, but you get a lot more for your money.
(/shameless plug)

I'm just waiting for when PJ starts selling these shifters. I'll be putting my B&M for sale after I install the new best thing.

PJ, what you planning to call your new shifter design?

Skwirl sh!ts shifters.


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Nice, I'd still buy it.





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NCR-SCCA

I think I've decided on calling it the PowerShifter.

Any mews on that newly designed shifter??

y get a short shifter y dont u just cut down ur shifter lol

patrick bush wrote:y get a short shifter y dont u just cut down ur shifter lol

Educate yourself.

Quote:

What is a short shifter?

The desired effect of a short shifter is to reduce the distance your hand needs to move to engage the next gear, thus reducing the amount of time spent shifting, reducing wasted time between shifts, and resulting in improved performance. A common misconception in the tuning world is that a short shifter is just a chopped off version of the stock shifter. In fact, chopping your shifter has no effect on the angle that your shifter shaft travels through between gears and therefore does not reduce the shifter's angular throw.

A true short shifter decreases throw by reducing the angle that the shifter shaft travels through during its stroke between gears. By reducing the angle that the shaft travels through between gears, the distance that your hand needs to move between gears is also reduced. In many cases, the shifter shaft is also re-designed to be shorter than stock thus creating a sportier look and feel, as well as aiding in reducing the linear throw length when coupled with the reduced angular throw.

The geometry of a short shifter differs from the stock shifter in order to reduce the distance that the upper section where your shift knob threads on needs to move to achieve the same degree of movement in the lower section where the shift rod or shifter cables attach. This ensures that although your hand is moving a shorter distance, the transmission is still fully engaged in every gear. The main pivot point, or fulcrum of the shifter lever is re-positioned on the shaft in such a way that the lower section which connects to the shift rod or shifter cables is longer than stock, resulting in the desired effect. A Short Shifter is carefully designed to create the optimal throw length, angular shift throw, and shift knob height resulting in the ultimate short shifter.

The end result is a shorter, more precise shift, which requires a shorter hand movement to engage the next gear, and looks and feels sportier than the unsightly long shifter shaft most cars come stock with.

Want hub spacers? Shoot me a PM.

ok lets just put it this way cutting down ur shifter may not be a true short shifter but its the cheep way to do things and it alsdo make ur inerior look cleaner if u know what ur doing

patrick bush wrote:Ok, lets just put it this way. Cutting down your shifter may not be a true short shifter, but its the cheep way to do things, and it also makes your interior look cleaner, if you know what your doing.

No, it is the wrong way to do things.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

ok then bud y dont u tell me what the right way cuz i dont want another speech like jiffie or what ever the hell his name is did or go online and find something that he thought made him sound smart and post it

Stupid n00b.....

Its fairly simple really. Do not cut your shifter down, to make it a "short throw shifter." It is in no way the proper way to shorten the "row" of the gears, and actually makes it harder to shift gears. The geometry underneath the fulcrum needs to change.

Quote:

The force applied (at end points of the lever) is proportional to the ratio of the length of the lever arm measured between the fulcrum (pivoting point) and application point of the force applied at each end of the lever.
Mathematically, this is expressed by M = Fd, where F is the force, d is the perpendicular distance between the force and the fulcrum, and M is the turning force known as the moment or torque.

With short throw shifter(s), the fulcrum is modified to actually require less throw between each gear, and normally requires less force to move the same linkage. Since your gaining a mechanical advantage by moving the fulcrum.

-MD- LD9 wrote:

Vincent Morris wrote:someone had a REALLY good diagram on here at one point and i cant find it, i searched the crap outa this site already for it lol.

I drew one up in autocad to prove it, but I can not find it either. LOL
Made a new one. LOL Sorry for the bad quality. It was a 5 minute job.

Actually cutting a stock shaft shorter is actually making shifting harder, because you have less leverage on the stick. It takes more force to move a cut shaft, than a stock shaft.

z yaaaa wrote:cool, well its nice to know that it acctually does shorten the throw.

Brad you might be shorting the throw you see above the pivoit, but you are not changing a thing below it. You still have the same throw under the pivoit, and are still moving the cables and linkage the same distance.

steve white wrote:A short throw shifter works by making the part under the pivot ball longer, meaning you dont have to move your arm as far, but are required to use more force. It makes it feel much better, the heavier knob adds to that feel. The amount of throw you can reduce is limited by the distance from the floor under the shifter assymbly, to the pivot ball. If you can make this distance further, by makeing the shifter assymbly sit further from the floor, then you can make the shifter throw shorter, cutting the shifter on the top will only shorten the amount you have to throw a little bit, but making the bottom part of the shifter longer will reduce throw a lot. If you found out how much you can raise the base before it will not fit under the center console, then made the part that connects to the shiftercableto the pivot ball as long as possible, you would get a great feeling shifter, especially after you cut the top part down a little and added a nice weighted knob.

He has it dead on.

-MD- LD9 wrote:

Kardain wrote:

-MD- LD9 wrote:

Vincent Morris wrote:someone had a REALLY good diagram on here at one point and i cant find it, i searched the crap outa this site already for it lol.

I drew one up in autocad to prove it, but I can not find it either. LOL
Made a new one. LOL Sorry for the bad quality. It was a 5 minute job.
Actually cutting a stock shaft shorter is actually making shifting harder, because you have less leverage on the stick. It takes more force to move a cut shaft, than a stock shaft.
.

Unless the shift cables mysteriously lengthen by ~3/4", your first diagram isn't accurate. By moving the pivot, the angle needed to shift is less. This will achieve the same end result as the hacksaw method, shorter arc length above the pivot.

I was explaining that you move the cables more with a longer shaft under the pivot, which installed would shorten the overall movement above the pivot to move the cables the same required distance.

PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Careful Mike, don't get to technical for this kid. Hes still in High School.

If you cut the stick you will have a "shortened" shifter, not a short shifter. In the end, you will make it more difficult to shift as you have lost your leverage and have left the cable throw unaffected.


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