if it was the fuse yes. but this is a common problem for gm cars. i havent figured out why. but. it is.
Cavie Freak wrote:wouldn't replacing the fuse come first before taping wires?
This is what fixed my problem basically. I jumped the connector like what was discussed and I fixed the fuse with a higher amp and its worked fine ever since.
Exodus 259 wrote:Cavie Freak wrote:wouldn't replacing the fuse come first before taping wires?
This is what fixed my problem basically. I jumped the connector like what was discussed and I fixed the fuse with a higher amp and its worked fine ever since.
You shouldn't ever put in a higher amped fuse to correct a problem. The wiring can' handle the extra draw and you can cause a fire. Fine the source of your problem first so you can use the correct size fuse
Ryan1
The rear defroster takes a lot of power, and I've known people that blow fuses left and right using it. They uses a tad higher amp fuses and nothing has gone wrong. Also, I did fixed this problem over a year ago and there hasn't been any problems, glitches, etc.
yeah could i get some pics as well i have the same thing hapening to mine. email is totalblackout25@ hotmail.com
M62 KIT for sale PM ME
Anyone ever get pics of these things?
DEAD THREAD REVIVAL
Has anyone ever changed the relay in the HVAC controller? Mine is shot (housing obviously melted) so I need to change it to have a properly working rear defrost
On the plus side... my wire is good
Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
* More to come *
I know this thread is from a long time ago, but its the first google result for 2001 cavalier rear defrost. so if anyone else comes here looking for an answer, like me, here's what I did. I had the same symptoms - push the defrost button but the orange light wouldn't come on. You could hear a click tho. My green connector by the hood release looked fine, but had no power with the test light. Fuse was good. So I checked the switch itself. You have to take off the dash pad, the dash, then the hvac controls, and I had to take off the colored lines on the vaccum switch (two tabs on the side). I took the connector out of the defrost/ac switch and the orange wire terminal was melted on both the female and male terminals. I took the switch out of it's housing (two tabs on the back). Using a test light I found out that there was still power on the orange wire (supply from the fuse), but it wasn't getting on the circuit board. Wiggling the orange wire with the key to run (and the switch disassembled down to the circuit board) I could get the defrost to turn on. It would disconnect as it heated up, too, or if I bumped it.
So basically the melted terminal was causing it to not get a good connection. I ended up cutting some plastic away and soldering a wire from the circuit board to the orange wire.
Hope this helps someone.