very nice. increasing compression whilst also decreasing quench area. good call!
deck that head too!
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
You are my hero!
13.520 @ 98mph! 220whp 234tq
I looked into this spring rate thing some more.
Seems most Honda "Drag Kits" consist of F:550lbs R:1000lbs
Some more digging around Ground Controls website and I can actually get spring rates as high as
1400lbs!
Thinking maybe since the J-Body is heavier than a civic perhaps even stiffer rear springs, maybe 1200lbs?
Hmmm....I wish they would get back to me emails, I never have time to call anyone.
Lol at what point do you just have a "solid" connection between the rear trailing arm and the chassis? What woud something 550/1000lbs feel like on the street?
According the some of the guys on Honda-tech its not really that bad, they say its obviously very stiff but its not unbareable.
The extra weight of a J-Body should make it even smoother.
I wonder how long my Koni's will last at that spring rate tho, hmmmm.
Maybe I'll just stick with the 1000lb rears, they are only 60 bucks a spring...so its not like I'll be out to much money if I hate them.
My buddy is running progess coilovers on his turbo civic and I do believe his rates are 350/350 but the same company offers a drag setup which is rated 350/500. I know is 350/350 setup is fairly stiff but definately not unbearable. I'd imagine the 350/500 would be significantly stiffer though, but like you said our cars weight a little more than civics (mind you yours is abnormally light for a j-body, and probably weights the same as many civic hatchs
) Keep up the work, will be interesting to see what it runs this summer.
Wheel adapters ordered an hour ago.
Karo is putting in my order for a Cometic 0.030" HG and Flywheel bolts this afternoon. I would go thinner but I'm not sure what kind of piston valve clearance there is/ I don't wanna retard my cam timing to much. It will still put me around 11.2-11.3:1 CR so that should do nicely.
Only thing left to order is a clutch to be able to put the drivetrain together.
Progress...
lol
Very nice man. So a stock head gasket from any Eco just won't work?
No, you need an LE5 gasket cause of the larger bore.
The bore of a LE5 is 88mm, whereas a LSJ/L61 is 86mm.
Cometic makes a 89mm bore HG which works, I just ordered mine a bit thinner than the stock one (stock is 0.040") for an extra little compression bump.
A stock OEM LE5 head gasket will work, oldskool is running a OEM LE5 gasket.
newt wrote:No, you need an LE5 gasket cause of the larger bore.
The bore of a LE5 is 88mm, whereas a LSJ/L61 is 86mm.
Cometic makes a 89mm bore HG which works, I just ordered mine a bit thinner than the stock one (stock is 0.040") for an extra little compression bump.
A stock OEM LE5 head gasket will work, oldskool is running a OEM LE5 gasket.
Yeah I knew Oldschool was but he is running the l61 head right? I didn't know if the le5 gasket would work with the lsj head. But if it does that's cool.
Yes he is, ya all the passages line up between all the variations, so we are good to go
Correction I am running a .070" thick gasket. My CR is somewhere around 9.5:1
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
z yaaaa wrote:
i say get some wheelie bars. make that bish stand UP in the assend!
this doesnt make sense. wheelie bars on a FWD car are to stop the front wheels from lifting and losing traction during weight and power transfer. (look at them as more of a ladder bar function than a wheelie bar function) Generally on FWD cars they are about an inch off the ground for when the transfer occurs, then they plant.
besides, its not as simple as a bolt on affair. its a lot of fabrication to get it on and functioning correctly.
oldskool (eco meatcake) wrote:Lol at what point do you just have a "solid" connection between the rear trailing arm and the chassis? What woud something 550/1000lbs feel like on the street?
ever bought the @!#$astic ebay brand coilovers for a j? thats how it rides...
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
have you talked to karo about susp.? he has a drag kit koni put together for him with ground control coilovers..
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R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
BuiltNBoosted wrote:z yaaaa wrote:
i say get some wheelie bars. make that bish stand UP in the assend!
this doesnt make sense. wheelie bars on a FWD car are to stop the front wheels from lifting and losing traction during weight and power transfer. (look at them as more of a ladder bar function than a wheelie bar function) Generally on FWD cars they are about an inch off the ground for when the transfer occurs, then they plant.
besides, its not as simple as a bolt on affair. its a lot of fabrication to get it on and functioning correctly.
huh? that is exactly what i meant dood. read it again... if the rear is up, the front aint gonna move. you can do it with coilovers too... i was being more sarcastic than anything anyway.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, February 28, 2011 8:58 PM
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
z yaaaa wrote:BuiltNBoosted wrote:z yaaaa wrote:
i say get some wheelie bars. make that bish stand UP in the assend!
this doesnt make sense. wheelie bars on a FWD car are to stop the front wheels from lifting and losing traction during weight and power transfer. (look at them as more of a ladder bar function than a wheelie bar function) Generally on FWD cars they are about an inch off the ground for when the transfer occurs, then they plant.
besides, its not as simple as a bolt on affair. its a lot of fabrication to get it on and functioning correctly.
huh? that is exactly what i meant dood. read it again... if the rear is up, the front aint gonna move. you can do it with coilovers too... i was being more sarcastic than anything anyway.
you made it sound like you were standing the back up. when all you are really doing is preventing the back end from going down. like he said, he is better off with stiffer springs than going through the effort of wheelie bars.
and karo's suspension might be worth looking in to.
naw i meant when the front torques the rear wont lower. stiffer springs in the rear AND raising the coilovers up would be beneficial. a sort of reverse lever effect, if you will.
mike is someone i think that could do the bars pretty easily though, actually. he seems very resourceful and isnt afraid to get his hands dirty. but really.. on an n/a car with like 200whp wheelie bars are pointless. hence my sarcasm.
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
z yaaaa wrote:naw i meant when the front torques the rear wont lower. stiffer springs in the rear AND raising the coilovers up would be beneficial. a sort of reverse lever effect, if you will.
mike is someone i think that could do the bars pretty easily though, actually. he seems very resourceful and isnt afraid to get his hands dirty. but really.. on an n/a car with like 200whp wheelie bars are pointless. hence my sarcasm.
its not so much the person doing it making it hard or easy. its fitting them to the car the correct way, and angles correct.
and believe it or not, more N/A honda's run them than the boosted ones do. i read on them a while back on hondatech.com. most of the N/A guys there do run them. boosted not a much.
z yaaaa wrote:oldskool (eco meatcake) wrote:Lol at what point do you just have a "solid" connection between the rear trailing arm and the chassis? What woud something 550/1000lbs feel like on the street?
ever bought the @!#$astic ebay brand coilovers for a j? thats how it rides...
Ah...so this entire time ebay was selling drag kits for dirt cheap and we never new it.
I always wanted to play around with spring rates, after all what feels perfect for one person may not for another.
BuiltNBoosted wrote:z yaaaa wrote:naw i meant when the front torques the rear wont lower. stiffer springs in the rear AND raising the coilovers up would be beneficial. a sort of reverse lever effect, if you will.
mike is someone i think that could do the bars pretty easily though, actually. he seems very resourceful and isnt afraid to get his hands dirty. but really.. on an n/a car with like 200whp wheelie bars are pointless. hence my sarcasm.
its not so much the person doing it making it hard or easy. its fitting them to the car the correct way, and angles correct.
and believe it or not, more N/A honda's run them than the boosted ones do. i read on them a while back on hondatech.com. most of the N/A guys there do run them. boosted not a much.
did you also read that most n/a hondas are upwards of 300+ whp and weigh less than 2000 pounds WITH a driver?
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
I haven't spoke with Karo about the suspension, I'm still waiting to hear back from Ground Control themselves, I'll see what they have to say and go from there.
As for the traction bar, I obviously won't be running one...lol
Updates:
Header should be here early April.
Drag Slicks finally cleared through customs (after being there for only 16 days!) so hopefully have them by weeks end.
Looking at May for my head to be done, hopefully sooner....but good things come to those who wait...lol
Hopefully this thing will run for early June...but its looking like that may be a stretch.
My FWD drag buddies do their alignments with the front end of the car raised the same amount it does when they launch so they have more contact surface when they launch.
They are averaging 1.8-1.9 60 ft times on drag radials.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, March 08, 2011 8:56 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
